Rambler
Well-Known Member
Or ALT-Rider'd S10 Riders just RIDE!So reading this thread I’d say don’t put Altriders on as everyone with them seems to drop their bike !
Or ALT-Rider'd S10 Riders just RIDE!So reading this thread I’d say don’t put Altriders on as everyone with them seems to drop their bike !
So reading this thread I’d say don’t put Altriders on as everyone with them seems to drop their bike !
Do the stud mod prior to installing the bars and plate (you'll thank me at the first oil change).Guess I'm dropping the pig. I'll be picking up a set of secondhand Altriders. I also have an ACD Skidplate on order to protect my bottom.
Yeah brasters let me know about the studs for the skid plate, I'll definitely do that when installing.Do the stud mod prior to installing the bars and plate (you'll thank me at the first oil change).
What size are the bolts? I might as well get them now before I want to ride all the time.Do the stud mod prior to installing the bars and plate (you'll thank me at the first oil change).
If this doesn't get answered first I'll provide it when I do installation. I'll have the bars tomorrow (but need to prep and re-paint, first) and the ACD skid plate just shipped today.What size are the bolts? I might as well get them now before I want to ride all the time.
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Yes, it's not as hard as it looks, just have to do some Rubik's Cube type rotations.Anyone know if you can wrestle the battery out with AltRider cars installed?
Looking at mine tonight and It didn't look like I can.
I was thinking about replacing the battery before an up coming trip, but my front wheel is at Woodys. So the bike is on a hack under the ACD plate. To get the Crash cars off the plate and hack need to come off but I need my wheel to put on to get the jack out.
Thanks! And to add to the original discussion I have the Happy Trails crash bars that came with the purchase I’m thinking I may want more upper protection but will give these a season to see. I picked up the ACD skid plate and not sure if it's going to work with the HT Bars.If this doesn't get answered first I'll provide it when I do installation. I'll have the bars tomorrow (but need to prep and re-paint, first) and the ACD skid plate just shipped today.
Thanks. I loosened the lower crash bar bolts to give it some more wiggle room. Actually removed the rear bolt and then was able to maneuver the battery out.Yes, it's not as hard as it looks, just have to do some Rubik's Cube type rotations.
I wrote up somewhat of a procedure to remove the battery in a thread I need convincing!! link
This may help, but if this is your first time to pull the battery out this way you might consider putting some good tape over the battery terminals to prevent getting a short circuit.
There is a range of protection offered by he various manufacturers for us to select from. Givi has typically been on the lighter end more for street and occasional off-road, but these look even lighter/better for those who may seldom go off road.View attachment 53336View attachment 53337
These are what I use. MASTECH P/N 103.009. I'm not an engineer, but I've seen how "stuff" reacts in crashes. The Mastech bars use the same anchor points that the OE "little piece of plastic" uses. Since I trust Yamaha to know where the bike is designed to take a hit, the Mastech bars made sense to me. They bolt together, and support each other, and are attached to the bike's strong points. I asked a Yamatech what he thought of them, and even questioned the attachment point to the block. His opinion, and mine, is that if you crash hard enough to break the block where they attach, the rest of the bike is probably equally destroyed. So, for less then $200.00 (US) I think they will provide all the protection that "I" need. They also allow access to the battery/tools without removal.
You'll want 2 pieces of threaded rod, M12 x 1.25 @ 2 1/4" - 2 5/8" long if memory serves correctly. Use locktite to install the studs.What size are the bolts? I might as well get them now before I want to ride all the time.
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Good to know about the sizes and lengths. I'm planning on putting my armor on this weekend if I finish (start) painting the crash bars.You'll want 2 pieces of threaded rod, M12 x 1.25 @ 2 1/4" - 2 5/8" long if memory serves correctly. Use locktite to install the studs.
I ended up with a final install in this order: engine block > engine mount plate > crash bar > nut > skid plate > nut
I purchased a 3' piece of threaded rod from Granger so I've got some left over, PM me your shipping address and I'll send you a piece big enough to do the job. You'll just need to buy a handful of nuts to use for the install.
You are a brave manLast September I gave the GIVI crash guards a thorough test. At 09:30 on the Trans Canada highway traveling east towards Banff, Alberta, I found an icy bridge over the Bow River. The bike wiggled twice and then it just disappeared and I was suddenly on my back sliding across the bridge deck at 90 kph. When the world outside my visor stopped moving I found my S10 about 30 meters further down the road and two of three cases smashed and separated from the bike and a broken mirror. The GIVI crash guard took the brunt of the impact and saved the right side of the bike. I was able to continue my trip home to Cape Breton and replaced the guard with the same. I also replaced the mirror, the scuffed hand grip bushguard and both rightside foot pegs. Lesson learned...September is too late for traversing the Rocky Mountains in Canada.
On my Gen 1, I had the Givi crash bars, and the Baja Designs light bar under the headlights. Mounting points are completely separate for the two.I have a 6" light bar mounted in the space just below the headlights and want to add Givi crashbars. Does anyone know if there are any mounting points for the crashbars that are going to be where my light bar is?