Kruzzin5
Well-Known Member
Great write up with photos. Did mine today.
From the MX Manual:From owner’s manual
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It says to have the shop change coolant every three years; does not state type or compatibility.
Does the maintenance manual specify compatible coolant properties?
Would any car coolant from wallyworld or parts store that is phosphate and silicate free be safe to use?
Part number now on the other thread.Darn, drain plug wouldn’t tighten and has snapped, could any one get hold of a part number. Gonna have drill out the bit left in.
And what did you perceive when using Mocool?….This is my 2nd coolant change for the bike and I thought I will document the procedures here with pictures. Caution: Do it when the Radiator is cool at room temperature.
Here are the Tools and Fluids I am using:
1. Toyota Long Life Coolant, 1L - safe for all Japanese vehicles (something about no phosphates and silicates that can destroy seals in the water pumps)
2. Motul MoCool - 5% per total radiator volume. Improves heat removal.
3. Measuring cup: Since I live in the tropics, freezing is something I don't get so I am going with a 30% Coolant, 5% MoCool and 65% Water (filtered soft). The higher the water content, the better the cooling efficiency it gets.
4. Total volume of radiator, expansion tank, all routes: 1.9L
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Start off with removing these 3 screws.
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Now you can access the Radiator Cap.
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Open up the Drain plug with a 8mm Socket Hex tool bit. Collect the coolant with a bucket.
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Inspect the cap for rust or damage or build up. This one looks healthy so there is no need for a Radiator cleaning service.
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Place a funnel on the intake and flush the radiator with water (tap water in my country is soft. If the water source is hard which contains minerals, then it is better to flush it with RO, DeIonized Water, battery water etc. Minerals in hot water = precipitation forming on hot metal surfaces. Flushed as many times until the exit water is clear. I did about 3 liters of water to clear it.
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Now, onto the Expansion tank. I use a pump from a Body Gel bottle. Pumped out as much as possible. May add in fresh water and pump out a 2nd time.
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Close up the drain plug.
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Fill in the Mixture of Coolant/Water via this funnel. It takes about 1.7L to fill the radiator to the brim. The other 200ml would be to the Expansion tank.
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Remove the funnel to expose the intake. Carefully pour into the intake, slowly so that it doesn't spill out but allows the excess to flow into the Expansion tank via a small black rubber hose connected at the intake. Fill in until the Expansion tank is full.
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Fill until the expansion tank is full. Closed up the Radiator Cap fully. Warm up the bike and check for leaks and add in if insufficient as indicated by the expansion tank levels.
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It's hard to judge for MoCool since I have never tried without MoCool to have a good comparison.And what did you perceive when using Mocool?….
I'm not sure how it improves heat transfer…. Once the thermostat is opened, “supposedly”, there is no better liquid that allows heat transfer than water itself. Refrigerants worsen that transfer (but prevent freezing, and stretch the boiling point)...But I don't know how this Mocool works, I have only read that it prevents the air bubbles formation (which impoverish heat transfer), …Maybe that's doesn't see in hot water circulating in a circuit...the bubbles, maybe if the hose were transparent, we would see bubbles instead of liquid waterIt's hard to judge for MoCool since I have never tried without MoCool to have a good comparison.
I think it works by improving the 'wetting' at the surface making it more effective as more surface area is somewhat 'connected' to remove more heat from the blocks and release more heat at the radiator. I can predict that as a result of this, depending on the scenarios: (Temps measured at coolant temp sensor)I'm not sure how it improves heat transfer…. Once the thermostat is opened, “supposedly”, there is no better liquid that allows heat transfer than water itself. Refrigerants worsen that transfer (but prevent freezing, and stretch the boiling point)...But I don't know how this Mocool works, I have only read that it prevents the air bubbles formation (which impoverish heat transfer), …Maybe that's doesn't see in hot water circulating in a circuit...the bubbles, maybe if the hose were transparent, we would see bubbles instead of liquid water
my copper washer on the drain bolt on the water pump has been used 3 times in 3 changes no issuesThanks. Super helpful.
Do folks tend to replace the copper washer for the drain? I didn't but TBD if I have a leak...
I have replaced mine when I did coolant changes, mainly because out of all the other crush washers on the S10, the darn coolant drain was the only one I've encountered that actually leaked when I tried to reuse it.Thanks. Super helpful.
Do folks tend to replace the copper washer for the drain? I didn't but TBD if I have a leak...
Same here.That top cowling screw is a PIA to get back in on mine. Is it that way on all of them?