Confirming tools needed for a oil change:

[eastwa]

I am picking up my new 2013 ST today, but it is 100 miles away.
I am wanting to put 10-20 miles on it, and then change the oils before heading home.
The dealer will let me do the work in the parking lot.
They will provide the drain pan, and will take care of the fluid disposal.
As near as I can tell, I need:

Engine oil: 12 mm socket
Final drive: 6 mm Allen, 17 mm socket
Strap wrench for filter?
Bringing a funnel.
What is needed to remove the oil shroud?

Pics later today if I can find my camera.

 

[yz454]

You need to put more miles on it to clean it out,Just ride it home then change it.

 

[ADVFireFighter]

100 miles is perfect for your first oil change... Get on it and ride it like you plan on riding it. Don't baby it too much. Don't go redlining it but don't treat it like a b!tch either.

 

[limey]

All of they above. ::021::

 

[markjenn]

I'm with the others - 100 miles is more appropriate for an early change. (Actually, I think the recommended 600 is probably just fine too.)

Not that you'll hurt anything, of course. If you do go ahead and do this very early change.... your tool list looks correct. You can use a strap or cone wrench for the filter, although there's a 50-50 chance it will come off my hand. The silly little shroud around the oil filter is held on by four allen bolts - don't recall their size (smaller than 6mm), but the toolkit on the bike has a wrench. The oil filler is readily accessible and doesn't really require a funnel; if the oil bottles have an offset, start filling with the spout of the bottle offset to the high side to avoid an initial spill.

Easy bike to change oil with - just remember there are two sump drain bolts.

I'm not for thrashing a new bike, but I think Yamaha's 3900 RPM break-in restriction is too low and if you interpret it literally, you'll lug the engine quite a bit. There is nothing wrong with going over this number during normal acceleration as you break in the bike - just don't cruise at high speeds at high RPM.

- Mark

 

[AlsoRan]

While your at the dealer buy some extra drain bolt washers. Also you will need to have a torque wrench for tightening the drain bolts and oil filter.

Engine Oil Drain Bolt Washer: P/N 90430-12213
Final Drive Drain Bolt Washer: P/N 214-11198-01

 

[markjenn]

Again, nothing wrong with changing those washers, but they very seldom leak if re-used. Likewise, a torque wrench is never a bad idea, but if you have any mechanical experience at all, I don't think it is really necessary for an oil change. I can virtually guarantee you that the mechanics at the dealership don't use them for an oil change.

- Mark

 

[eastwa]

Thanks for the replies - I am off to pick it up ::012::

 

[tomatocity]

The plastic cover is attached with two allen head bolts (4mm ?) and two cap nuts (10mm)

 

[Dallara]

...The silly little shroud around the oil filter is held on by four allen bolts - don't recall their size (smaller than 6mm)...

Uh, sorry... But let's give the guy some accurate and correct information, shall we?

The plastic shroud down around the oil filter is held on by two cap nuts (6mm shaft/thread size - 10mm wrench head) and two allen bolts (6mm shaft/thread size - 5mm allen wrench size).

You do want him to have the right tools, don'cha'? ::017::

Good idea to get the washers, too... especially the final drive ones. They're one-use compression washers (like old style spark plug washers), and once they're compressed and flattened they will no longer hold the proper sealing if torqued to the proper snugness. It's just not worth it to "cheap seat" that part of the bike, especially since losing a final drive plug at the wrong time could oil the rear tire and spike a rider into the ground.

Dallara



~

 

[TierHawg]

Don't forget a long Phillips head screw driver and a hammer. You may need to use them to get a too tight oil filter off. :-[

 

[Don in Lodi]

I'm still using the same drain plug gaskets @ 23,000 miles, five changes, no leaks. And I've never, in 26 years of wrenching, used a torque wrench on a drain plug. :-\ LOL, I've needed a breaker bar to loosen a few. And an air chisel on a couple. ???

 

[tomatocity]

Oil Drain Gasket, 90430-12212-00, Yamaha gasket, $2.81 (copper gasket)
Final Drive Drain Gasket, 09168-14004, Suzuki* gasket, $1.42 (metal crush gasket)

* the Suzuki gasket is $.40 less than the Yamaha gasket and they are the same gasket.

I keep these gaskets in my spare fastener kit.

 

[RsZk]

Taking the filter off can be a bitch!
While your there, purchase the Yamaha filter removal tool. Now you can even torque it to spec! 8)

 

[ADVFireFighter]

Hell, the dealer should do the first oil change free....
How nice he will allow you to use his parking lot to do the oil change.
I'd go elsewhere if he didn't...

 

[iridemotorbikes]

I'm still using the same drain plug gaskets @ 23,000 miles, five changes, no leaks. And I've never, in 26 years of wrenching, used a torque wrench on a drain plug. :-\ LOL, I've needed a breaker bar to loosen a few. And an air chisel on a couple. ???

X's 2
I'm with you 100% on this comment.