Cold Start / Chain Tensioner / Busted Motor JUNK TENERE ??

[steve68steve]

No all the shims were under the buckets
Showed it to dealer whos done all the valve adj and of course they didn’t know.
Parts for basic cct bolts gaskets near $600.

Can someone explain the small pins on exhaust cam?
The pins strike the valve caps.

I just came here to hi-jack your thread, but the bold part above just hit me. If you're really, really, sure there was a bucket with no shim under it that sounds like a big dealer "oops" (make sure it's not either stuck on the head of the valve in the underside of the bucket - it could be upside-down and if you're expecting to see number etched on it and you don't...). There is no way in crap the valve clearance was acceptable with no shim in there, and that valve would have never been opening all the way. The fact that there are 2 of each per cylinder, and a shim-less bucket would still get pushed a little by the cam means it would probably run as well as you'd expect it to, concealing the problem.


So if that pc IS a shim, I'd say the last guy who serviced it somehow left it in the head but forgot to put it under the bucket. Then it would bounce around and get chewed up. It looks like you might have a big enough pc to measure the full diameter - I don't know what diameter shims are, but someone will (they're pretty standard). The thickness would be telling, too, and if there's any vestige of a number etched on it you have the smoking gun. If not, maybe posting up the size and a good description will net some thoughts from the experts here.

 

[Zepfan]

Dam......Sounds like I paid more than I had to ....... I just went to Yamaha for parts locally.
The dam CCT was $240 alone! I wasn't sure about manual cct.

The broken piece I found on bottom of case is Not a shim. Looks pretty close but not.
I accidentally pulled the stator case and looked all around for the other half. Not having a manual yet I pulled thinking I would disconnect wire inside instead of on tray.

I'm kinda bummed I went as far as pulling the motor so I just want to put the dam thing back together and get the bike back. Advise on this thread to simply re time an leak test again would have saved me huge.
I thought about lapping valves ( I have a manual now came yesterday) and replacing pistons. I hear my Gen 1 have to be replaced completely as rings aren't sold separately.

The way I look at it as these motors will go for 200k/mi so why spend any more money on a very well worn bike. I slap the motor back in place and ride for another 4 years and then "recycle."
The bike is tight still, besides being very dirty and some signs of corrosion and even a little rust swing arm and ect (everything) looks "Yamaha Good!" Frickin cct wha wha wha.
I washed the frame and motor w/ gasoline, premium from the tank. lol That and spraying the corrosion w/ TriFlow seems reasonable. All electrical connectors will have contact cleaner sprayed before inserted.
I had just had my headlight go out at night even.... another thread. Found the headlight plug slightly burnt n one of the four pins. Reconnecting got headlamps back on. So corrosion in electrical plugs needs checking. I went wild in Belize on this thing one day and went enduro through a bunch of puddles on a dirt road near the coast.

If I'm an idiot in my thinking for only doing the basics chime in! please and THANK everyone. Parts are coming in from here, CA, Minnesota and Georgia! Head bolts are scarce.

 

[Zepfan]

Another pic of piece i found.

 

[eemsreno]

Zepfan
Do you have a ride report on that Inuvik to Darien ?

 

[Zepfan]

Yes I think there is fragmented on ADV. I mostly used FB as uploading pics on ADV needed a special service or some dumb thing.
I can give you my name if you want to go to my FB.

Please give me your opinion on just doing basics to get bike back running.

 

[Zepfan]

Ouch!
So what'cha thank on the broken bit Jax? Back to the title....... JUNK TENERE ??

 

[~TABASCO~]

The pictures are blurry... Are the sides fractures like it one half or does it look like it was built just the way it looks ? I've never seen that part, I'm wracking my brain.

 

[Bigbore4]

This all started as a CCT failure. Is your broken piece the button from the end of the CCT plunger? Looks to be about the right size.

You don't need to do another leak down in my opinion. You tested the valves for leakage with fluid if I read you post correctly. Once you figure out where that piece came from get it buttoned up and timed correctly, stuff it back in and ride it.

 

[eemsreno]

Yes I think there is fragmented on ADV. I mostly used FB as uploading pics on ADV needed a special service or some dumb thing.
I can give you my name if you want to go to my FB.

Please give me your opinion on just doing basics to get bike back running.

Thanks Zepfan but I don't FB
If you have an ADV link that would be good.
My opinion is like Bigbore4 said -- No need to do another leak down but make sure the valve hold contact cleaner while the head is off.
Yamaha usually updated parts for a reason [like the new piston and rings] but I don't see any problem with my 2012 with 168,000 miles on it. It only uses some oil when hammering out super high speed and it has always done that, no more consumption now than years ago.
I would put a new cam chain in while it's down. [easy and cheep]
Take your time and really dial the valve clearance in perfect and make sure the cam timing is right!
A lot of guys seem to have a lot of trouble resetting the CCT to install it and I'm not a fan of it myself, I like the manual CCT. It just takes some getting use to having it set to the right tension.
But much safer and easier to install without problems.
I wish I lived closer so I could stop over and help you.

Steve

 

[Checkswrecks]

Can you post a couple of close-up photos of the broken piece next to a ruler to show both sides?

The one photo you posted is hard to tell diameter and there is a wear mark around the edge. I'm wondering what the other side looks like.

 

[Xclimation]

Can't help but wonder if the metal piece is something the dealership accidentally dropped in there when setting your valves in the past?

 

[Xclimation]

Looking at parts diagrams to see possibilities of what the broken piece is:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/super-tenere-xtz12bcb/clutch part # 27

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/super-tenere-xtz12bcb/camshaft-chain End of shaft part # 6

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/super-tenere-xtz12bcb/crankshaft-piston End of part # 15

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/super-tenere-xtz12bcb/valve Part # 5 valve spring retainer

https://www.flickr.com/photos/97730749@N03/33116601461/in/album-72157677584931000/ Look in the cam shaft end on the cam at closest to the rear. I swear looks a lot like the pictures you posted!

 

[Buelligan]

That piece of metal, almost looks like a valve retainer

 

[WJBertrand]

That piece of metal, almost looks like a valve retainer

I was thinking the same thing, except it seems too large on the OD and too small on the ID?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Checkswrecks]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/97730749@N03/33116601461/in/album-72157677584931000/ Look in the cam shaft end on the cam at closest to the rear. I swear looks a lot like the pictures you posted!

Thanks for sharing a GREAT set of photos!

 

[hANNAbONE]

Assuming the motor is truly busted and requires a major rebuild, the best course depends on whether you are a decent mechanic and want a major project. Otherwise, you can't pay $120/hr for dealer mechanics to do things like engine rebuilds and hope to come out whole, even if you can find enough competence to to the job (which is far from a given at most dealerships). So unless you want the project, I'd sell the bike "as is" for what the chassis is worth and let someone else tackle swapping in a used engine or rebuilding the existing one. Walk away and get another bike, new or used as finances permit.

- Mark

^^^ THIS ^^^

 

[OldRider]

Found a broken shim when i pulled the tc clutch cover.

How about some close up clear pictures of that piece? It's not a valve shim or valve keeper for sure. Is it broke off all the way across or does it look like it was just broke on one side? Does it look like it had a hole in the center? I saw where you said something about not every valve having a shim or something like that, can you define that a little better?

 

[Ramseybella]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-12-16-YAMAHA-SUPER-TENERE-XTZ12-MANUAL-CAM-CHAIN-TENSIONER-SILVER-YTR1-09/360722870330?hash=item53fcc2303a:g:3PEAAOxyXDhSg~Fc&vxp=mtr
They make fancy models with oil bypass port but I went with this at my first valve check and like I stated above, adjusted it once since then at 71k now.

Seriously it takes out the guess work!! Like is it or isn't it? Will it or when?
You are past warranty anyway.
Can't see much detail of the broken piece take it outside and snap another photo please.. But it looks sort of like two of the parts in the valve schematic below..
You have two retainers a locking #6 and a ring #5 under the lifter and something similar to #5 valve seat #3 see attachment. Any of them missing #5 under one of the lifters #8 or lower spring #3?

 

[Checkswrecks]

[This is where this thread has been split to remove a discussion about a gap between the cam chain and a sprocket in Steve68Steve's engine. http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=23510.0 - Checkswrecks]

 

[OldRider]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-12-16-YAMAHA-SUPER-TENERE-XTZ12-MANUAL-CAM-CHAIN-TENSIONER-SILVER-YTR1-09/360722870330?hash=item53fcc2303a:g:3PEAAOxyXDhSg~Fc&vxp=mtr
They make fancy models with oil bypass port but I went with this at my first valve check and like I stated above, adjusted it once since then at 71k now.

Seriously it takes out the guess work!! Like is it or isn't it? Will it or when?
You are past warranty anyway.
Can't see much detail of the broken piece take it outside and snap another photo please.. But it looks sort of like two of the parts in the valve schematic below..
You have two retainers a locking #6 and a ring #5 under the lifter and something similar to #5 valve seat #3 see attachment. Any of them missing #5 under one of the lifters #8 or lower spring #3?

If any of those parts (3-5-6) were missing he would have a valve sticking through the piston.