Clutch modification: what connector?

Frenchfries

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As you probably read in my post regarding the AVC flash, it is fully satisfying, specially with the third mode that can be triggered using the CJM (Clutch Jumper Modification). http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=10522.msg177878#msg177878
I am trying to make the mode accessible with a switch getting a total of 3 modes. 2 normal (T and S, and one on the clutch side with a on/off switch, were the normal behavior of the clutch lever can be restored). I want to make this looking good, and use the OEM .connectors. I went to cycleterminal.com and purchased the MTW .110-2 connector with 2 connectors or prongs based on the info I gathered on the site and the pictures. (http://www.cycleterminal.com/110-connectors.html) .
My problem is that the Yamaha OEM male connector is 6 x x14 mm, while the Hitachi/Sumitomo MTW is 6 x 10 mm. So if you did this before me, what is the proper connector to use for plugging into the OEM connector? :question:
 

Frenchfries

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I am replying to my own post. I sent a few pictures to Joe at cycleterminal.com to find what connector Yamaha is using. It turns out that they are MTW .110 connector, but the clutch connector has 3 prongs, but the center one is unused. http://www.cycleterminal.com/110-connectors.html
Reference is SC110-3

Joe ships immediately, and I got everything in 2 days (NJ to CA). ::012::
 

HDFlyer76

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frenchfries, so how did you use the connector to accomplish your goal? I want to do the same. Do you have any pictures of what you did?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Frenchfries

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By popular demand, here are the pics ;)

The handlebar switch is an unusual model found on Ebay for about $7 from China
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261317936782?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The install is done by wiring the male white connector from the switch (it will be plugged in the clutch assy) , then a second cable ( 5 cm or 2in long) from this connector to the white female connector. The female connector to be plugged into the harness. You will need a crimp tool to do this, and that's the most expensive part. The CJM is off when switch on I, and CJM is on when switch on O (should be the contrary, but so be it...).
 

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