Clutch basket change questions.

[Dogdaze]

Don't worry, gives you time to re-read the install again and familiarise yourself with it, by then it should only take you 30-40 mins to do it.

 

[fraserdog]

I should be able to do it blindfold by then

 

[EricV]

I should be able to do it blindfold by then

Please use all of your senses while doing the install, just stop thinking about it so much. Pull the cover off, watch for the two dowel pins and keep them retained in either the cover or the case. Remove the six flange bolts that retain the clutch spring and pressure plate assembly. Pull the clutch friction disks and plates out. Remove the short push rod if you haven't already. Note it's placement in the order of parts.

Now use a punch to push out the divit on the center locking nut, Then place the EBC tool over the splines of the primary driven gear, ("clutch hub"), rotate until it rests against the frame, apply impact wrench with 30mm socket to center nut. Remove nut, washer and clutch boss and carefully set aside.

Lift out primary driven gear, ("clutch hub"), taking special note of the bearings and other bits on the shaft. Some may stay on the shaft, or may come out with the clutch hub.

Swap the last disk from the old part to the new part, using special care with the retaining circlip so as to avoid damaging it. This is noted in the FSM as a replace item during service, but it can safely be re-used.

Reinstall in reverse order. And yes, I've done this a couple of times, using the EBC tool. You will need it again when you torque the nut down.

If you don't have the FSM, there is a suggested sequence to tightening the bolts in stages on the cover to avoid warpage. Consider it similar to wheel lug nuts on a car, crossing back and forth as you work around the perimeter.