GearheadGrrrl
Active Member
Just did the first valve check, fortunately all within tolerances. Put it back together, I get no start, a check engine light, and diagnostic code of "60" on the dashboard. What did I do wrong?
Checked valves, now get no start at 60 code?
- Thread starter GearheadGrrrl
- Start date
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Not sure what code 60 is but did you double check all your electrical and vacuum connections? Also, curious as to what your mileage is at this check?
greg the pole
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people
the owners manual has the error codes listed. Check your tb connections, and hi tension wires.
R
RonH
Guest
It's been hashed over before. Coil wires plugged into wrong coils most likely. Mark the heck out of everything to avoid this.
Fault code 60, YCCT-T drive system, malfunction detected
1st item to check, Connection of throttle servo motor coupler. (Looks like small connector on the front right side of the throttle bodies)
2nd item, connection of wire harness ECU connector.
One of these will probably be the most likely, with a few others listed but they lead to diagnosis of ECU failure which is unlikely to happen during a valve check.
Good luck, and how were the valve clearances?
1st item to check, Connection of throttle servo motor coupler. (Looks like small connector on the front right side of the throttle bodies)
2nd item, connection of wire harness ECU connector.
One of these will probably be the most likely, with a few others listed but they lead to diagnosis of ECU failure which is unlikely to happen during a valve check.
Good luck, and how were the valve clearances?
GearheadGrrrl
Active Member
Thanks for the help everyone, woke up at 4 am and couldn't sleep so went to work on the bike. Turned out I'd hooked the servo motor connector to one of the coils and vice versa, got 'em straightened out and the codes disappeared. Started kinda hard and required wide open throttle for a few seconds to get it started, maybe the fuel pump lost it's prime. Let it run a few seconds and checked for oil leaks, none found.
This was the first belated valve check at 29k miles, and clearances were a bit tight but within specs... Thus I'm going to make sure the next valve check comes at the end of the riding season, as I may need shims then. Both the valve cover and clutch cover gaskets came off clean so I saved my spares for the next check. I took off the front engine mount plate for access and didn't move the wiring loom on the right or the plumbing on the left, this allowed me to lift the cover up about an inch and get my feeler gauges in. I very carefully put the cover back on, making sure the gasket and o-rings around the coils were in their proper places. Took a look with a borescope through the open plug holes and intake valves with a borescope, looks OK with the expected carbon on the pistons but none on the valve shafts or intake tracts. I'd read a report of an S10 with seized valves possibly due to carboned up valves, so want to keep an eye on that.
Thought it was a PITA, was able to do the whole job with no special tools, could have even done it with the tools I carry in the sidecar if I had too, would have just taken a bit longer. Now that I've had some practice it probably won't take any longer than the valve checks on my F800, and unlike the BMW no special tools or software was needed to read the trouble codes and diagnose the problem. 'Nough wrenchin' for the morning', I'm gonna watch the hurricane coverage on the news, take a nap, and maybe finish putting the S10 back together while it rains this afternoon.
This was the first belated valve check at 29k miles, and clearances were a bit tight but within specs... Thus I'm going to make sure the next valve check comes at the end of the riding season, as I may need shims then. Both the valve cover and clutch cover gaskets came off clean so I saved my spares for the next check. I took off the front engine mount plate for access and didn't move the wiring loom on the right or the plumbing on the left, this allowed me to lift the cover up about an inch and get my feeler gauges in. I very carefully put the cover back on, making sure the gasket and o-rings around the coils were in their proper places. Took a look with a borescope through the open plug holes and intake valves with a borescope, looks OK with the expected carbon on the pistons but none on the valve shafts or intake tracts. I'd read a report of an S10 with seized valves possibly due to carboned up valves, so want to keep an eye on that.
Thought it was a PITA, was able to do the whole job with no special tools, could have even done it with the tools I carry in the sidecar if I had too, would have just taken a bit longer. Now that I've had some practice it probably won't take any longer than the valve checks on my F800, and unlike the BMW no special tools or software was needed to read the trouble codes and diagnose the problem. 'Nough wrenchin' for the morning', I'm gonna watch the hurricane coverage on the news, take a nap, and maybe finish putting the S10 back together while it rains this afternoon.
I had the same issue after checking/adjusting mine.
The right side coil wires for both cylinders have WHITE tape and the server connector to the throttle body has YELLOW tape.
The right side coil wires for both cylinders have WHITE tape and the server connector to the throttle body has YELLOW tape.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
With all the connectors involved, seems like it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery before performing this maintenance?
I didn't but it's always a good idea...WJBertrand said:
Just started it up and sounds good. I need to get it out and see how it performs.