blleeding brakes quetion

[La Knee]

I have 9400 miles on my 13 ST non ES . My back brakes were shot and I am not a big rear brake user . I mainly use them for slow stuff and OH CRAP moments . The brake fluid was black so I flushed it took it out activated the abs and reflushed it and cleaned,lubed and installed new pads.
My question is do I have to put the cap on the resevior while bleeding ? The fluid was coming out of the resevior from the bottom . I am using the Motion Pro bleeder. THANKS
LONNEY

 

[Dogdaze]

On the remote reservoir you should be ok, just make sure dirt does not get into the open unit....

 

[88millimeter]

if you are going to bleed brakes you should remove the reservoir cap otherwise you will create a vacuum inside the reservoir. When you bleed either using a vacuum pump or the buddy brake squeeze method you are removing liquid from the reservoir, with the lid removed the empty space is replaced with air, but when you leave the lid and bleed liquid from the reservoir you start to create a vacuum which may cause the bleed to be slow or may prevent you from completely removing the old brake fluid.

Of course you should prevent debris from falling into the reservoir, so maybe screw the lid off but leave it sitting on top of the reservoir and avoid forming an air tight seal. It should alos go without saying that you need to keep a level in the reservoir as you are bleeding, do not allow the level to get to zero.

 

[EricV]

Do not leave the cap on when bleeding. Before you start to do a flush and bleed job, suck out the old brake fluid from the reservoir and clean it with a tissue. Then re-fill it with fresh brake fluid and start your flush and bleed routine. The only time you would bleed with the cap on is if you are pressure bleeding, which requires a special cap that comes with the pressure bleeding system.

The Motion Pro bleeder is just a check valve device to allow one person to bleed the old fashioned way by squeezing the lever or pushing the brake pedal to cycle fluid thru the system. Use care to avoid brake fluid squirting out the reservoir and getting on your paint. This warning applies to both front and rear reservoirs.

As an aside, remember that the system is linked, so when you apply front brakes at the lever, the rear brake is also being applied. This is partly why your rear pads are gone at relatively low mileage. Some other reasons relate to your riding style and area. Lots of short rides in town mean more braking than longer trips, for example.

 

[La Knee]

Thanks for all the replies !! I bled my brakes again yesterday and I think I finally got the rear caliber from sticking WOOO HOOO!
I removed the caliber and the piston and cleaned it well with brake fluid. I don't know if there was air stuck in the line or the
seal was crooked but this was my fifth try and it seemed to have worked ::001::

 

[OldRider]

if you are going to bleed brakes you should remove the reservoir cap otherwise you will create a vacuum inside the reservoir. When you bleed either using a vacuum pump or the buddy brake squeeze method you are removing liquid from the reservoir, with the lid removed the empty space is replaced with air, but when you leave the lid and bleed liquid from the reservoir you start to create a vacuum which may cause the bleed to be slow or may prevent you from completely removing the old brake fluid.

The reservoir cap is vented to let air come in and the diaphragm expands, so there is no vacum.