Here's a few tips:
Crossing into Baja, use the Tecate border crossing. It's not crowded and it seemed that Mexican border agents don't care to look at bikes. I rode in, there was no one to take or look at my passport and kept going. I had purchased Mexican liability insurance online and no one asked to see it. If you're only staying in Baja and not going to take a ferry to the mainland, you don't need a Mexican vehicle importation form.
Crossing back into the US, I skipped the long car line and cut in ahead of everyone, apparently, that's what bikes do. No irate motorists and the border agent greeted me warmly! (Did you have fun? he said).
Cabo is very touristy as lots of sun seekers fly straight into Cabo from US/Canada, that's one reason riders avoid it, plus it's $$$.
you can either head south on the Pacific coast side on Mex 1, or you can head east and take Mex 5 down the Sea of Cortez side.
I stayed off the toll highway and went west towards the Pacific ocean and then rode south on Mex 1 to Ensenada. Ensenada is a port of call for cruise ships, so there's a few touristy streets, lots of restaurants and street life. From there you can head south along Mex 1 or cross over the central mountains and hit the "zona de curvas" along Mex 3 to San Felipe. Mex 5 pavement ends south of Alfonsinas resort on the Bahia de Gonzaga. (I don't recommend Alfonsinas, it's expensive and electricity runs on a generator, so no Wifi and no plugs in the rooms). South of this, the pavement ends (they're still working on Mex 5) and this is where you will run into Coco's Corner along the dirt road. Mex 5 ends at Mex 1.
I headed south from Ensenada to El Rosario and stayed at Baja Cactus hotel. I can't say enough good things about this hotel, it's beautiful, clean, upscale and relatively cheap, to me it's a 4 star hotel for $27/night. Gas station next to it and a Baja landmark restaurant, Mama Espinoza's. From there, I headed to Bahia de Los Angeles and ultimately, I ended my trip at La Paz, and then headed north. I basically headed south along the Pacific Coast, crossed over to Bahia de Los Angeles and continued south on the Pacific side and rode north on the Sea of Cortez side as much as possible. Keep in mind that this side of Baja is not as developed as the western side, so when you see gas, buy it. I've also run across gas stations that had run out of gas.
As for dirt tracks, I didn't plan for those, I just looked at my GPS and explored them as I saw them.. if they were deep loose sand, I'd turn around. I was on my SuperTenere and it was fully loaded for a 3 week trip (I rode from Las Vegas so SoCal first)
I didn't reserve any hotels, I just pulled up and inquired. The best hotel of the whole tour was the Baja Cactus in El Rosario and it was cheapest! Food is cheap, hotels can vary greatly. I don't camp.
It was a lot of fun, it wasn't crowded and very different from the Mexican mainland. I was there in early February. I'd go back without any hesitation. People were friendly and helpful and English is spoken in most places. Lots of gringo ex pats live there, so lots of signs in English as well.
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