Axiliary Fuse Panel

[jimrizzi]

where is the best place to mount a Centech AP-2 fuse panel on a 2014 ES?

 

[WJBertrand]

where is the best place to mount a Centech AP-2 fuse panel on a 2014 ES?

I mounted a Neutrino Black Box just forward of the battery. There's a flat space there that worked perfectly for me. I mounted the unit with some double sided gray 3M automotive trim tape. I think there should be room for the Centech there. Edit: mine is also an ES.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Search this portion of the forum and you'll find several ways folks have done this. Generally two places under the right side panels and one beneath the seat. I recall one to the left side of the forks inside the fairing.

 

[jimrizzi]

Thanks for the help WJBertrand, I think that space will do the trick.

 

[jimrizzi]

one more question...I'd like to have the aux fuse box tied to the ignition, so anything I use it for will only be live when the key is on. any reason why I couldn't tap into the positive lead of the aux power outlet (which is controlled by the ignition) and go from there to the aux fuse box power connector instead of connecting the aux fuse box positive lead directly to the battery?

 

[Jabba]

Believe you want a relay between the lead and your panel. That will be triggered when you start the bike- allowing power from the battery lead to flow to the panel. Watch your wire guages- be sure they're propriate for the load you'll run through them.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Checkswrecks]

+1 to Jabba.
A number of us have tapped the cig lighter + wire as the trigger for the relay to activate the aux fuse panel. Just be aware that the cig lighter wire is very thin and only has a 3 (iirc) amp fuse, so it by itself can not handle much more than this, a GPS, or phone charger.


Whether through your new fuse panel or parallel, you'll probably also want to add at least one heavier circuit for a SAE, Powerlet, or coax connector. They are needed to supply your Battery Tender, heated jacket, air compressor, etc.

 

[dietDrThunder]

Not sure if you already bought a panel, but if not, get one with a built-in relayed circuit to facilitate the on-with-ignition setup. I personally have had good results with the Fuzeblocks FZ models. The advantage here is that there's an on-board relay that switches power to the unit on one rail, and the other rail is always-on. It's all powered directly from the battery' the only thing the switched power does is drive the relay.

Good luck.

 

[OX-34]

The Eastern Beaver PC-8 also allows for 6 components switched on by the ignition and 2 that are always on.

These gizmos have a switching wire that can be triggered by any source that is hot when the ignition is on (ignition, tail light, little side/parking lights etc).

It is a narrow gauge wire because it only carries a switching current, not any significant load.

Having some connections available that are 'always on' can be a good thing. I run my multiple GPSs and an SAE connector that way. That way the GPS does not turn off every time you stop for gas or to open the panniers with the ignition key. Those 12V SAE connectors are then handy for running heated gear, an air compressor, trickle charger, Port-a-Jump etc