Anyone have this problem with skid plate install?

Clevermonkey

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May 11, 2014
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So went to install the new skid plate, followed the instructions and had my trusty torque wrench. She I went to tighten the right front bolt on at it snapped in the acorn nut. I checked the setting on torque wrench against one of the other bolts and they seemed ok ( granted I don't have a second torque wrench to check it against.
 

Clevermonkey

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May 11, 2014
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Oregon
its the yami plate, which re-uses the acorn nut that attaches the factor cowling.

Used the right bolt, used a torque wrench set to the right setting and the stud sheared- at 40 inch pounds?!?

I suppose I should stop by the dealer, but this is my daily transportation... kinda hard to lose my wheels while they decide what to do . I am tempted to shorten the rubber gromit and attach a new nut to the remainder of the stud. Probably should go back to the dealer though.
 

rotortech71

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The right front "Stay" is 23P-15772-00-00. It cost $4.43 from Stadium Yamaha. I gotta say, I'd just order the part, and put it on.
 

Clevermonkey

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yeah your right. I am used to TDM parts in the US... ie 25$ plus a nice long wait for the part to show up from Europe.
 

Scoobynut

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Mar 21, 2011
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Dickinson, ND
Clevermonkey said:
its the yami plate, which re-uses the acorn nut that attaches the factor cowling.

Used the right bolt, used a torque wrench set to the right setting and the stud sheared- at 40 inch pounds?!?

I suppose I should stop by the dealer, but this is my daily transportation... kinda hard to lose my wheels while they decide what to do . I am tempted to shorten the rubber gromit and attach a new nut to the remainder of the stud. Probably should go back to the dealer though.
Clever, I did the same thing when installing the OEM plate on my 2014, although I buggered the left one. The thread went right through the acorn cap. I removed the nut, cleaned away the sharp edges etc. and re-installed the bolt using some blue loctite. I've ridden 2500 miles with it this way and it hasn't budged. Nobody laugh now, but in a way I kind of like this new setup as I can visually inspect it to make sure the nut isn't backing out, which is hard to do when it has the cap on it! :D Anyways, I ordered a couple extra acorn nuts and will replace the 'holed' one shortly when I change the oil. Am also going to make sure I have the grommet in right as it seems to be thicker where it rests on the inner part of the plate. Maybe that needs to be on the outside, which might mitigate the stress on the nut's cap? No doubt these acorn nuts aren't the toughest nut to crack out there...
 
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