Another Long Brake Line Question

gs_rider

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I haven't seen this discussed yet. I have the long lines with the bleeding instructions and am ready to install them.
My question is: Is it possible, when you replace the lines to also install "speed bleeders"? The only instruction with the long lines is for bleeding the lines. Nothing about actually removing the old ones and installing the new ones.
I'd like to install speed bleeders while I'm doing this job. Unless there is some reason I shouldn't?

It seems like it would greatly simplify the bleeding process after the lines are replaced, plus any future fluid changes would also be greatly simplified.

I would guess that after you bleed everything out of the reservoir you would just remove the old bleeder screws, install the speed bleeders, install the new lines and then just follow the bleeding instructions. I'm wondering if there is some reason you can't remove the bleeder screws due to some possibility of putting air in the abs system???
 

JonnyCinco

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There should be no issue with speed bleeders. They act as regular "plugs" when torqued down. I have found that they are a bit longer than stock though.
 

jajpko

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gs_rider said:
I haven't seen this discussed yet. I have the long lines with the bleeding instructions and am ready to install them.
My question is: Is it possible, when you replace the lines to also install "speed bleeders"? The only instruction with the long lines is for bleeding the lines. Nothing about actually removing the old ones and installing the new ones.
I'd like to install speed bleeders while I'm doing this job. Unless there is some reason I shouldn't?

It seems like it would greatly simplify the bleeding process after the lines are replaced, plus any future fluid changes would also be greatly simplified.

I would guess that after you bleed everything out of the reservoir you would just remove the old bleeder screws, install the speed bleeders, install the new lines and then just follow the bleeding instructions. I'm wondering if there is some reason you can't remove the bleeder screws due to some possibility of putting air in the abs system???
I don't think you want to bleed the entire system as that will include the ABS. That is much more involved than what you need to do.
After you install the lines, fill the master about 1/2 full and pull the lever gently and hold it.. AT the same time use a screwdriver and tap on the line. You will see air bubbles rise into the master cyl. When the air bubbles stop, you will be ready to ride. This is much simpler than bleeding the ABS..

Because the clutch is direct to the slave, you can bleed as normal..
 

tomatocity

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japako said:
I don't think you want to bleed the entire system as that will include the ABS. That is much more involved than what you need to do.
After you install the lines, fill the master about 1/2 full and pull the lever gently and hold it.. AT the same time use a screwdriver and tap on the line. You will see air bubbles rise into the master cyl. When the air bubbles stop, you will be ready to ride. This is much simpler than bleeding the ABS..

Because the clutch is direct to the slave, you can bleed as normal..
Thank you Jim. Very good explanation. Now I am ready to do this upgrade.

note: rotate the handlebar to each side get the line in a more upright when removing the air bubbles. Had to do this on my KLR (non-ABS) years ago.
 

gs_rider

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japako said:
I don't think you want to bleed the entire system as that will include the ABS. That is much more involved than what you need to do.
After you install the lines, fill the master about 1/2 full and pull the lever gently and hold it.. AT the same time use a screwdriver and tap on the line. You will see air bubbles rise into the master cyl. When the air bubbles stop, you will be ready to ride. This is much simpler than bleeding the ABS..

Because the clutch is direct to the slave, you can bleed as normal..
When you have the brake lines off and ready to replace them with the new ones, couldn't you just replace the bleed screw with the speed bleeder at that time and do the same process, tapping the brake line, etc? Or is that too deep into the system to keep air out of the abs??
 

jajpko

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All I know is you don't want to introduce air into the ABS and have to bleed that. It can be done, but in my opinion is a bitch.
If you keep the air in the short new line and gradually add fluid and remove the bubbles of air it is much easier.
 
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