AltRider Skidplate and Crashbar Install

zedXformer

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Jul 24, 2012
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24
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Somewhere in the middle of America
I wanted to put together my notes from my AltRider skid plate install today. I downloaded Rev 2 of the instructions and there were still errors.

Here is the link to the AltRider instructions online -->
http://www.altrider.com//files/product/579/SU10-2-1200%20XT1200%20Skid%20Plate%20Instructions_R2.pdf

Here is the link to my (handwritten) corrected version of the instructions -->
https://www.dropbox.com/s/acvnbm02j1ebgzg/SU10-2-1200%20XT1200%20Skid%20Plate%20Instructions_R2.pdf

I'll summarize my notes below. The only thing I couldn't figure out was how to get the nut by the oil filter tight with the wrench I had. So I got it tight enough for now. I 'll figure it out in a few days when I drop the plate for touch-ups. Speaking of which...

I received the AltRider skid plate in black yesterday from RevZilla. They sent me a used part... :'(

To their credit, they immediately offered a 20% credit or a return for my trouble. So I got a skidplate for a great discount. There was some cosmetic damage, but we'll get it touched up with paint when i drop it for the 600mi oil change. So... score!!

I think the AltRider stuff is great. I've admired it for a while. but I couldn't justify the cost for my Strom, which was limited to tarmac use.

 

zedXformer

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Joined
Jul 24, 2012
Messages
24
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Somewhere in the middle of America
Corrections...

I thought the instructions were pretty good. So I'm not going to give a full run-down. See the link above to a full color version of the instructions with my hand-written notes. I used the full-color version on the iPad and annotated it as I went along.

Parts List:
The socket head M6 fastener is longer than the flat head M6 fastener. (I grabbed the part by length at first and quickly realized my mistake). I assume the lengths are reversed between these two parts.

Step 1:
Use a 4mm Allen driver for these fasteners

Step 4:
Torque the generator cover fasteners to 12 N*m

Step 7b:
Use a 13mm socket to start the Exhaust hangar bolt.

Step 8:
Don't forget to use the washers on the outside of the sidestand mount.

Step 9:
Use a 5mm allen driver and a 13mm box wrench to start these fasteners. Correct order of parts is:
Bolt <-> Finish Washer <-> Skid Plate <-> Bracket <-> Washer <-> Lock Nut

Step 10:
This is the M6 socket-head cap screw which I presume is 18mm. The thread is longer than the M6 flat head fastener. Tighten these to 10N*m

Step 11:
Start this with 13mm socket and 13mm wrench

Step 14:
This is the shorter M6, flat-head fastener

Step 15:
For engine mounting bolt, use 17mm socket and tighten to 68 N*m
For exhaust bolt, use 13mm socket and tighten to 20 N*m
For sidestand mounting plate, use a 8mm allen driver and tighten to 63N*m

Step 19:
If anyone has any hints to this step, I will add it here. I couldn't get the front fastener tightened on the firs go around.
 

zedXformer

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Joined
Jul 24, 2012
Messages
24
Location
Somewhere in the middle of America
AltRider Crashbar Install

I also installed the crashbars. No drama here.. just awesomeness.

Here is the link to my hand-annotated notes for Rev 1 of the Crashbar installation guide:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aqqsvpwsn300nfg/SU10-0-1000%20XT1200%20Crash%20Bars%20Instructions_R1.pdf

Corrections:
Step 5: Use 19mm socket

Step 7: Tighten engine mount bolts with 19mm socket to 75N*m

Step 8: I couldn't find a torque value for these bolts.. I guessed 10 N*m. If anybody has a good value, let me know.

 

mcbrien

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Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Messages
784
Location
Hanover , Pa
I installed the skid plate by the instructions and when I was through
I think 4 bolts were still loose . Anyway its not hard to figure out and
seems to be a quality product . I bought through speedzilla also with
no problems and fast delivery .
 

GreyNomad

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Joined
Jun 15, 2012
Messages
6
Location
Suffolk, UK
Just fitted same items to my S10 and really impressed with the quality and toughness of them. Fitting instructions were really good although I did pick up some mix up between left and right on the bash plate instructions. It was obvious though so didn't cause a problem. Hardest bit was getting a spanner (sorry wrench for you guys over the water!) on the nut of the front bolt on the left front mounting bracket. Other than that all was fine. The bash plate will definitely have to come off for filter changes but will probably do that by removing the plate from all brackets except the front right. I'll undo the bracket from the engine block instead.
 

Jboyers

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Joined
Apr 21, 2012
Messages
8
Location
Central OH
Good afternoon everyone

I know there are plenty of protection options available for the Tenere. The list is probably still growing. I wanted to share my experience with the Altrider products for the rider that
A.) Hasn't made their hard-parts decision yet or
B.) Recently went down, their bars folded up and they had to buy OEM parts.

To start off, here's what I have:

http://www.altrider.com/altrider-crash-bars-for-the-yamaha-super-tenere-xt1200z/pid/600

In addition to the crash bars, I also installed the Altrider skin pan, which I THOROUGHLY BASHED all the way down a rock-filled mountain. CLANG CLANG CLANG rang my new bash plate. The photographers couldn't catch my grin, knowing that it was the bash taking the beating, not my engine pan or my oil filter! This product ROCKS!

My first true test of the Tenere and the Altrider crash bars happened this summer at the Conserve The Ride event in Central PA. As with every “test” of a hard part, it’s never a planned moment. At the end of a long day, I found my NEW Ten sideways on a crested gravel road doing about 20mph. She and I went down and as soon as we stopped sliding along the gravel road I knew that as I lifted the bike off my leg I’d see the damage.

Case penetration? Oil? Antifreeze maybe? With my luck, probably a mix of the two, right? No! Nothing!

Not only was it still operational and not leaking a drop, the crash bars protected the engine and the upper fairings amazingly well. I only had a few nicks in the engine case! The shift lever was 180 degrees off but that was fixed on-site.

I have to admit that looking at these bars, it appears that the lower engine would be fine in a tip over, but it all seemed very vulnerable to damage in a sliding situation. These held up like champs and saved by ass. If they weren’t build so well with a good design and quality materials, I would have put this bike in the back of a truck like the guy with the Triumph, leaking fluids and dangling parts all the way back to Ohio!

The left bars were scratched up pretty bad on the two vertical mounts coming up from the engine (see below) and I wore the “badge of honor” for awhile. Eventually, the perfectionist got the best of me and I sprayed a little semi-gloss black and now you can’t even tell that these bars truly “conserved my ride” this summer!

::014::
 

PNWSuperbeast

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May 10, 2011
Messages
279
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Poulsbo, WA
::026:: On the AltRider Bars. Been "tested" twice, all with hardly a mark to the plastics. They just plain work.
 

PNWSuperbeast

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I tell you it was just the blackberries....... I was having a sudden craving ::013::
 
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
279
Location
Bakersfield, CA
In the upper left corner of the hardware diagram, there is something that appears to be a M8 Hexhead bolt with two washers and a locking nut. It is not labeled. I laid out all my hardware and this part is missing. I read through the instructions and I didn't see any M8 bolts I couldn't account for. Is this part erroneously included in the drawing? Am I missing a piece? If I am missing a piece, what do I need?
 
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
279
Location
Bakersfield, CA
The bolt in the upper left hand corner of the hardware diagram was not present and not needed. Everything went on great. Altirider wasn't kidding when they said the crash bars could be installed alone, but is much easier with a friend.




 
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