Altrider Skid Plate - Rusty Bolts

[Mellow]

There are two bolts on the Altrider Skid plate that have rusted. It's only some surface rust but I expect more from something that costs as much as it does. Also, they are the only two of the bolts supplied that are rusting.

I have an email into them to see what they will do.

 

[stevepsd]

Mine did the same thing. I ended up hitting them with a light coating of flat-black paint since I did not have any stainless fasteners in that size.

 

[gbergma1]

Shame, I agree for the price of that thing, it should be stainless steel hardware, I would call and light someone up, but if you hate money, here is a good site: http://www.probolt-usa.com/index.php/stainless-steel.html

 

[Wanderer]

Hi,
Not to defend Alt Rider : but it maybe that the expected load that those bolts might see could exceed the limit of a stainless steel bolt. Stainless steel is not as strong as regular steel.
Later,
Norm

 

[limey]

Hi,
Not to defend Alt Rider : but it maybe that the expected load that those bolts might see could exceed the limit of a stainless steel bolt. Stainless steel is not as strong as regular steel.
Later,
Norm

Sorry Norm but the tensile strength of Stainless steel is twice that of regular steel.

 

[martinh]

That is a shame to see. Thier skid plate costs an arm and a leg, the bolts shouldn't rust.

 

[Don in Lodi]

There are two bolts on the Altrider Skid plate that have rusted. It's only some surface rust but I expect more from something that costs as much as it does. Also, they are the only two of the bolts supplied that are rusting.

I have an email into them to see what they will do.

That AltRider switch cover in the picture doesn't look the right color either...

 

[phplemel]

Sorry Norm but the tensile strength of Stainless steel is twice that of regular steel.

SHCS (socket head cap screws) (steel ones) are normally rated at a much higher tensile strength than stainless hardware

There are two common types of stainless steel fasteners: corrosion-resistant stainless steel, ASTM 304 (a.k.a. 18-8) or DIN/ISO A2, and acid-resistant stainless steel, ASTM 316 or DIN/ISO A4. A2 is by far the most prevalent material, and is what is normally supplied for stainless metric fasteners.
Socket-head cap screws (SHCS) are included in the table which have a higher strength than graded fasteners, but no specific markings except for their shape.
Grade marking Material tensile strength Yield strength
N/m2 psi N/m psi
SHCS none Alloy Steel 1240 180,000 965 140,000
18-8 none 302 Stainless 690 100,000 448 65,000
316 none 316 Stainless 690 100,000 448 65,000
::021::

 

[Wanderer]

Hi,
As stated it is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. What goes in to steel to make it stainless, which I think is nickel, keeps it from rusting but lowers it's tensile strength. Yes you can get stainless that is as good as regular steel but a 5/16 x 1 3/4 bolt would cost you $30 plus. ;D
Later,
Norm

 

[roadlizard]

Just installed a black anodized Altrider. Used Ti or stainless bolts when I could. My metric bolt/nut selection is not that great. Drilled out some of the holes to allow use of standard fasteners, however I didn't stock any of the bike specific fasteners.

Hope my nuts don't rust! ::025::

 

[Rubberbaby]

"Just installed a black anodized Altrider. Used Ti or stainless bolts when I could. My metric bolt/nut selection is not that great. Drilled out some of the holes to allow use of standard fasteners, however I didn't stock any of the bike specific fasteners.

Hope my nuts don't rust! "

EH.... Garcon Cheque please..... ::025::

 

[Checkswrecks]

SHCS (socket head cap screws) (steel ones) are normally rated at a much higher tensile strength than stainless hardware

There are two common types of stainless steel fasteners: corrosion-resistant stainless steel, ASTM 304 (a.k.a. 18-8) or DIN/ISO A2, and acid-resistant stainless steel, ASTM 316 or DIN/ISO A4. A2 is by far the most prevalent material, and is what is normally supplied for stainless metric fasteners.
Socket-head cap screws (SHCS) are included in the table which have a higher strength than graded fasteners, but no specific markings except for their shape.
Grade marking Material tensile strength Yield strength
N/m2 psi N/m psi
SHCS none Alloy Steel 1240 180,000 965 140,000
18-8 none 302 Stainless 690 100,000 448 65,000
316 none 316 Stainless 690 100,000 448 65,000
::021::

Good post. Most people don't realize that stainless is significantly less than a good hardened steel. The flip side is that hardened steel definitely rusts.


I've used 2 alternatives on the Stroms. One has been to use stainless and check them closely at oil changes when the plate comes off anyway. The other is to spray ACF-50 or some other anti-corrosive into the engine holes and dip the heads of the bolts in gloss black Rustoleum before insertion. Use a q-tip to touch up the black paint after tightening. (btw - for a couple of reasons, don't expect flat Rustoleum to do well at rust prevention.)

 

[bloodline]

sweet baby jesus. Next thing you know, somebody is gonna post that they got scratches on their skid plate.

Don't put stainless bolts in those holes, unless you remove your side stand first...

 

[Don in Lodi]

Scratches!? I've got full-on hammered out dents! ::015::

 

[TierHawg]

Take a wire brush, scratch pad or sandpaper to the bolts. Degrease them, then hit them with a spray can of black primer. That should last a couple of years unless you're riding in seawater.

 

[fender5803]

Hi,
Not to defend Alt Rider : but it maybe that the expected load that those bolts might see could exceed the limit of a stainless steel bolt. Stainless steel is not as strong as regular steel.
Later,
Norm

I checked mine and no rust on any of the supplied hardware. That plate does seem different than the one I have but I was going from memory - didn't take the computer with me to bike.

I had completely forgotten that SS bolts often are not as strong as steel, unless paid for. I worked on boats for a long time and steel bolts/nuts were just not used or quickly swapped out, before they became one piece ... I forgot how expensive one 1/2"x 4" bolt could be. I guess it was because it was "marine grade"

::022::

 

[fender5803]

I checked mine and no rust on any of the supplied hardware. That plate does seem different than the one I have but I was going from memory - didn't take the computer with me to bike.

::022::

I take it back, I take it all back. I looked in the wrong place or didn't look closely. Those bolts are starting to show rust, not much but a bit. O well-!! ... and for what it's worth that part does look the same as the one in the picture - what can I say - I screwed up in 99% of my last post ...
-DT
::022::

 

[528Hz]

Shame, I agree for the price of that thing, it should be stainless steel hardware, I would call and light someone up, but if you hate money, here is a good site: http://www.probolt-usa.com/index.php/stainless-steel.html

oh good linky man ::003::
the hell with stainless steel ------------- titanium http://www.probolt-usa.com/index.php/titanium/titanium-axle-nuts-bolts.html ::012::

 

[fender5803]

oh good linky man ::003::
the hell with stainless steel ------------- titanium http://www.probolt-usa.com/index.php/titanium/titanium-axle-nuts-bolts.html ::012::

Ti amazing ... and amazing prices-!
Yes, thanks for the link-!!
-dt

::022::