I agree. You don't want to mess around with your engine tune for the sake of a slightly more accurate OAT gage.~TABASCO~ said:
DON'T DO THAT.~TABASCO~ said:I wouldn't do that... That is in a specific place for the ECM.. They just make a pick up for the dash.. To 'try' and get a more accurate dash temp your going to jack up the ECM input for the engine... Yamaha didn't just throw that sensor in the box just any-o-where.....
If you need a more accurate temp gauge you can get then for less that 5-10 off google or your local drug store..... ::008:: When its cold out.... I know its cold....
Actually, a common mod on bikes is to use devices like a PC to enrichen the mixture which typically improves throttle response and power, but at the expense of higher emissions and poorer fuel mileage. Moving the sensor to some place cooler might have some of this effect but it is hard to say whether it would be work well or not. There are a few vendors selling devices that do exactly what you're talking about - they go inline between the sensor and the ECU to fool the engine into thinking the temps are cooler and more fuel is needed for the denser air.Noryb said:
X2 ....... 100%. Mark is probably referring to many GA guys that buy a $70 resistor to add to fatten up the mix. I spoke to a "big wig" GS guy from Advrider and he told me that those guy want the less expensive unit rather than the Pcv/ at. Of course, that's when I spoke to him about what you had just mentioned. This bike is fuel sensitive, an over all increase in fuel would not necessarily be a good thing.Tremor38 said:
There's a bunch of these "air temp correction" devices being sold for a lot of different bikes. They're sorta considered a "poor man's power commander". I'm not advocating that they're a good approach and there are a lot of bikes running these things that although they may make more peak power or may have better throttle response at some points in the powerband, overall, they're mis-fueling pretty badly in parts of the rev range. Of course, there are a lot of PC installations where the bike overall isn't fueling very well - to really get a PC dialed in for any particuilar bike, you have to do a good dyno tune with A/F ratio measurment and worry about things like air injection ystems that may skew the results. Most guys throw it at the bike, load the "hot map" they think works well and call it quits. This may or may not work well.~TABASCO~ said:
Mark,markjenn said:
No, I'm not running anything. I was speaking more generally about how most PC's are setup by most riders (often poorly). I have no direct experience with one on the S10. You speak highly of being able to trim the system by riding, but personally speaking, if I were to get a PCV, I'd budget in a dyno tune to get full benefit - all the bikes I've ridden with well setup systems have had one.~TABASCO~ said:
Welcome to the forum! Nothing wrong wth the KISS logic on many items!!!Mittenduck said:
i share your frustration! Yes it is just the intake air temp NOT outside air. It always reads high and depending on conditions anywhere from 2 to 30 degrees F high. If the bike is run for a while and then shut off for a few minutes and then restarted, the hot motor will make it read VERY high. Also in slow traffic. However once you reach cruise the error levels off. I find that in that state, if I subtract 6 degrees, it will be within 2 degrees of true. ( I have a separate thermometer)
