Air Filter

fred-houston

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Sep 23, 2015
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TeXaS
I started searching for a new air filter for my 2016 S-10. How something so simple can get so complicated is beyond me. The prices I found ranged from $23.00 to $82.00. I really don't want to mess with oiling a filter, so I am looking for a simple drop in replacement. Any suggestions?

Thanks
 

magic

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Jul 6, 2015
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WISCONSIN
There's nothing wrong with staying with the OEM Yamaha filter. Shop around online for the best price. Rocky Mountain ATV has them for $27. The OEM parts fit and they work just fine.
 

fred-houston

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Sep 23, 2015
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TeXaS
Thanks, I ordered one from Rocky Mountain ATV.

Now for the rest of the story. I went to Rocky's website to look at their OEM charts to order the filter. The listed 6 Super Tenere models and none were mine.

XTZ12GB
XTZ12GCB
XTZ12GCY
XTZ12GY
XTZ12EGB
XTZ12EGCB

I have, at least what my owners manual says I have is an
XTZ12EG / XTZ12EGC

Now it is not hard to figured the ones with an "C" are California models. It also is easy to figure that the ones with an "E" are electronic suspension, which happens to have a different part number for the air filter.

Can anyone cure my curiosity and tell me what the difference is between the "GB, GY, EG"?

Thanks
 

fred-houston

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Sep 23, 2015
Messages
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TeXaS
Thanks for the information.

I just completed my fist air filter and spark plug change.

It was a little tough to get that number 4 plug out, but using a ratchet wrench made it fairly easy. Changing the air element was a piece of cake, getting the air box reinstalled was probably the most difficult thing, but it really wasn't that bad. I used fuel hose pliers to get the hose on and right angle pliers to get the clamp back on.

The manual calls for the stick coil bolts and the spark plugs to be torqued, but that wasn't going to happen, at least with my torque wrench. I was able to put the torque wrench on the first plug, so I had an idea how tight they should be, so I did the rest by hand. The stick coil bolts are also suppose to be loctite, and it looked like on mine it was the blue loctite, but I wussied out and use low strength red instead. I did not want any problems when I have to remove them next time.

All in all an easy job, I am retired and slow, so I did this over a couple of days, but if I was to stay on it, it probably would have taken be an hour to two hours to do.
 

scott123007

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Jul 27, 2012
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Jupiter, Florida
fred-houston said:
I wussied out and use low strength red instead. I did not want any problems when I have to remove them next time.
Don't know what brand of thread locker you have my friend, but if it is "Loctite", green is low strength, blue medium and red is HIGH strength.
 

scott123007

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Jul 27, 2012
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It's all good. As much as a pain in the ass those coil holder bolts are to get to and loosen, I figured if you used red, now would be the time to get back in there and re-do it while the procedure was still fresh in your mind.
I'm even a little rusty on what colors do what because all I ever use is blue and sometimes red. I thought green was the low strength because I read on here somewhere about someone using it on spokes and even though any Loctite on spokes is a no-no, I thought it was at least low strength. Turns out, it is med-high strength. Go figure.
 

tuonodave

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May 22, 2015
Messages
42
Location
Brooksville, Florida
Hopefully you used very little red Loctite. If the bolt don't want to break loose, a little heat will soften the bond of the red Loctite. I would try a soldering iron directly on the bolt for a few minutes. It should be enough heat with out melting the plastic of the coil.
 
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