AeroStich PDM60 V2 Power Distribution

[Brick]

I'm looking to install a fuse box or some kind of distribution box like what www.easternbeaver.com sells. The goal is to distribute power to 1) heated Grips 2) Power outlets like one for A) GPS on all the time and B) a switched one for my Gerbing heated jacket liner and gloves. I count that as three... hmmm??? What else???

Oh I just thought that I might just want to provide power to my iPhone (when I get one...couple of months) or to the tank bag so that I can power the iPhone. So that kind of elimates the 3 circuit Eastern Beaver... too many circuits for that.

Anyway today I got the Aerostich January Supliment 2012 catalog and there on page 19 I saw the PDM60 V2. Listed as a 60 Amp Solid State Power Distribution Module. Says no fuses and a limit of 15 amps for each of the 6 circuits and each is "reset-able" like a circuit breaker.

Hmmm... well has anyone used this? Is it a good idea or should I just stick with the Eastern Beaver?

Opinions wanted.... needed!

 

[mobyfubar]

I have the Centech AP-2 from Aerostich and it works well for me. It has 3 fuses/5 outputs that are switched and 2 fuses/3 outputs that are unswitched.

 

[Spider]

PDM60 v2 looks cool, and per the somewhat vague written description appears to solve one of the limitations of the original, which was that all circuits timed out 3 minutes after the bike was switched off (switching was not configurable). Without any documentation available, it is hard to tell what else this version has changed. The picture looks like the circuits have predefined (nonconfigurable) amp ratings (3 at 15 amps, 3 at 5 amps) which to me would be a deal-killer. But the picture looks like the original version, so it is possible they fixed this limitation and just haven't updated the picture.

I like that it is completely waterproof and uses no fuses.

Would like to see more detailed specs.

 

[stevepsd]

I really like FZ-1 fuzeblock. It has fused six circuits that you can change from switched to un-switched.

Plus it mounts real nice on the ST.

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

have you seen this site for waterproof USB connectors (for your smartphone, etc) http://www.3brpowersports.com/index.htm

-steve

 

[maddog5150]

Keep in mind that there are factory plugs for heated grips and aux lighting. You can use these and not have to tap them to a fuze box. If you dont mind charging phone from the stock power outlet, you just may be able to get away with something small such as the Eastern Beaver 3 power deal...

 

[Brick]

Oh I like the FZ-1... really you can change each from Fused to unfused... that is cool. But once wired I probably would not change... still cool.

Also really looks great how you have it mounted AND you really do nice work! I don't know what the temp probe is for??? Could you explain, please.

Also which horn is the relay that you have added for.

Is the speedo that far off that you needed the healer??

Thanks to all for the GREAT info so far! ::001::

I really like FZ-1 fuzeblock. It has fused six circuits that you can change from switched to un-switched.

Plus it mounts real nice on the ST.

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

have you seen this site for waterproof USB connectors (for your smartphone, etc) http://www.3brpowersports.com/index.htm

-steve

 

[Brick]

So Bryan did you use the Cortech AP1 Auxiliary Power Fused Panel #2549-2538 @ $58.00 plus the AP-2 Wiring Harness (AP-130R) #2539 @ $37.00 to get the functionality that you speak of??

The Cortech box looks good but they don't show it opened up I'd love to see inside. Is it water proof... the photo doesn't look like it would be??? :question:

Thanks for this input... I like options! ::012::

I have the Centech AP-2 from Aerostich and it works well for me. It has 3 fuses/5 outputs that are switched and 2 fuses/3 outputs that are unswitched.

 

[colorider]

Oh I like the FZ-1... really you can change each from Fused to unfused... that is cool. But once wired I probably would not change... still cool.

No, switched to unswitched - all circuits are fused regardless.

 

[mobyfubar]

So Bryan did you use the Cortech AP1 Auxiliary Power Fused Panel #2549-2538 @ $58.00 plus the AP-2 Wiring Harness (AP-130R) #2539 @ $37.00 to get the functionality that you speak of??

The Cortech box looks good but they don't show it opened up I'd love to see inside. Is it water proof... the photo doesn't look like it would be??? :question:

Thanks for this input... I like options! ::012::

No, it is definitely not waterproof. I'll try to get a pic of it when opened up and send it to you.

 

[Brick]

Switched = the bike's key switch must be on to get power
Unswitched = power on all the time regardless of the key position

I sure hope ALL are fused... that after all IS the idea of a fuse box. ::008::

No, switched to unswitched - all circuits are fused regardless.

 

[colorider]

Switched = the bike's key switch must be on to get power
Unswitched = power on all the time regardless of the key position

I sure hope ALL are fused... that after all IS the idea of a fuse box. ::008::

Correct.

 

[stevepsd]

Oh I like the FZ-1... really you can change each from Fused to unfused... that is cool. But once wired I probably would not change... still cool.

Also really looks great how you have it mounted AND you really do nice work! I don't know what the temp probe is for??? Could you explain, please.

Also which horn is the relay that you have added for.

Is the speedo that far off that you needed the healer??

Thanks to all for the GREAT info so far! ::001::

Oh yeah....the temp probe is for my dedicated Trail-Tech temperature gauge.

I added dual Fiamm 'freeway blaster' high/low tone horns to replace the wimpy beep-beep.

Yes the speedo is way off - over 5mph fast at higher speeds and it is one of those things that really bugs me, so SpeedoHealer to the rescue!

-steve

 

[digitalmoto]

I bought a FuzeBox and it works great. I also picked up one of the powered "GS" tank bag by Bags-Connection from Twisted Throttle. I can charge my phone, Sena helmet comm from the power outlet inside the tank bag. The powerring for the tank bag is wired into a switched connection on the FuzeBox along with my 2 widder outlets (elec vests) and my heated grips.

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/3027/821/

 

[Brick]

Oh yeah....the temp probe is for my dedicated Trail-Tech temperature gauge.

I added dual Fiamm 'freeway blaster' high/low tone horns to replace the wimpy beep-beep.

Yes the speedo is way off - over 5mph fast at higher speeds and it is one of those things that really bugs me, so SpeedoHealer to the rescue!

-steve

Steve... sorry for the delay... I was out riding! ::008:: Anyway...
1) Re the horn relay... you are running the FZ-1 Fuseblock why do you need an additional horn relay?

2) Yes, the speedo is off but I am almost so used to the Japanese speedo's being off that it doesn't bother me tooo much. However...

3) The ambient temperature gauge is like 6 to 8 degrees off... is that why you added the dedicated Trail-Tech temperature gauge? Hmmm... more expense I'll have to see if I can find that. I was just thinking that perhaps the Yamaha probe is in a bad spot???

Thanks in advance
Brick

 

[Tremor38]

Steve... sorry for the delay... I was out riding! ::008:: Anyway...
1) Re the horn relay... you are running the FZ-1 Fuseblock why do you need an additional horn relay?

2) Yes, the speedo is off but I am almost so used to the Japanese speedo's being off that it doesn't bother me tooo much. However...

3) The ambient temperature gauge is like 6 to 8 degrees off... is that why you added the dedicated Trail-Tech temperature gauge? Hmmm... more expense I'll have to see if I can find that. I was just thinking that perhaps the Yamaha probe is in a bad spot???

Thanks in advance
Brick

I'll respsond cuz I'm bored. The relay in the fuze box turns the switched outputs on the fuzebox on and off with the ignition key. A horn relay handles the high current draw of horn and is only on when you are 'honking' the horn. You can use the OEM horn switch to energize the horn relay.


As far as the temp gauges go, yeah they're more accurate than the OEM one because the OEM guage is just reading what the EFI air inelt temp is sensing. Also, many of the aftermark gauges have a ice warning which can come in handy.

 

[Brick]

I'll respsond cuz I'm bored. The relay in the fuze box turns the switched outputs on the fuzebox on and off with the ignition key. A horn relay handles the high current draw of horn and is only on when you are 'honking' the horn. You can use the OEM horn switch to energize the horn relay.


As far as the temp gauges go, yeah they're more accurate than the OEM one because the OEM guage is just reading what the EFI air inelt temp is sensing. Also, many of the aftermark gauges have a ice warning which can come in handy.

Ok Tremor38... That makes sense... using the existing horn wiring to activate the new horn relay which then brings power directly to the new horn through a non-switched circuit on the FZ-1. Right?

On the ambient air reading on the Super T... I think you are saying that the temp probe is in the air inlet that goes to the fuel injection... ok... so is it needed there for the Super T's electronics? OR as I thought it's just a reading on the dash to show how hot/cold it is out for the riders benefit? IF it is needed for the bikes electronics it's inaccuracy is well... not good. IF it is just so that the rider can tell how hot/cold it is out... is there a way to move it or somehow make it more accurate?

I get that many add other gauges but since this bike has what it calls an ambient air gauge... it damn well should be more accurate than 8 degrees off. My FJR is very good and is much more accurate??? I suppose I'm ::002::

Thanks for the reply...
Brick

 

[Tremor38]

Ok Tremor38... That makes sense... using the existing horn wiring to activate the new horn relay which then brings power directly to the new horn through a non-switched circuit on the FZ-1. Right?

On the ambient air reading on the Super T... I think you are saying that the temp probe is in the air inlet that goes to the fuel injection... ok... so is it needed there for the Super T's electronics? OR as I thought it's just a reading on the dash to show how hot/cold it is out for the riders benefit? IF it is needed for the bikes electronics it's inaccuracy is well... not good. IF it is just so that the rider can tell how hot/cold it is out... is there a way to move it or somehow make it more accurate?

I get that many add other gauges but since this bike has what it calls an ambient air gauge... it damn well should be more accurate than 8 degrees off. My FJR is very good and is much more accurate??? I suppose I'm ::002::

Thanks for the reply...
Brick

I highly recommend not moving the sensor. To make a long explanation short. The EFI doesn't care what temp the rider is feeling...it cares what temp the engine is feeling, and that's why it's located where it is. As far as the horn goes, you should probably check how much amperage the horn draws (usually in the specs somewhere) and also check the amperage rating for any one output of the FZ1 first. I'm pretty sure my Eastern Beaver PC-1 will handle it, but it's rated at twice the current of the FZ1.

 

[Brick]

Tremor38,
Got it... kind of what I suspected! Thank You and I will check the horn's rating as soon as I select one. I want it loud but I also want to be able to mount it where it can be heard.

Thanks for the excellent input! ::008::

Brick

 

[fredz43]

Hey Brick,

I'll send you an email with details and pics of the twin Fiamm setup Iinstalled on my S10. Inexpensive, very loud and easy to install.

 

[Brick]

Hi Ya' Fred!
Very Cool... Thank You so very much! U still Da-Man!! ::012::

Brick

Hey Brick,

I'll send you an email with details and pics of the twin Fiamm setup Iinstalled on my S10. Inexpesive, very loud and easy to install.