I just hit 20K miles on my 2013 S10. I usually change the engine oil and shaft oil together. Should I be doing any other maintenance like air filter, spark plug, coolant flush etc? I am not sure if the previous owners have ever changed the air filter and spark plug.
20K Maintenance
- Thread starter Perks81
- Start date
Paul466
Well-Known Member
Valve clearance check would be a good idea to see where You’re at, steering head bearing grease service? Check spokes also
TenereStreets
Active Member
Air filter and spark plugs are every 12k miles in the scheduled maintenance, so you're close. Might want to change the coolant too then, if it's original. I change mine every two years
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
If you go to this thread, I posted the service schedule for the S10, which shows everything you're supposed to do at 20,000 miles:
Just hit 30k. What’s next maintenance?
I just love this bike. It’s new to me, but just hit 30k. Valve check was done by previous owner at 25k. Is there a major service for 30k? Any advice from longer term owners? The ride and performance is just perfect and I want to
yamahasupertenere.com
AntrimMan
Member
The owners manual is available online for free download from Yamaha with no strings attached.
AntrimMan
Member
Well, I might be wrong about that statement. I remember mine was downloaded free from Yamaha. Policies may have changed since then.
AntrimMan
Member
found it, still available:
Spark plug change at 12,000... hahahahHahaha. Maybe a bike from before 1965. Especially excessive if you put iridium plugs in as a replacement. I think Yamaha might be a little ocd on that one. I will look at them when I check valves... which needs to be done when I get home as I will be over 26,000.
OP- unless you ride off road or dusty gravel roads your air filter can also go between valve checks.
When I buy a bike I usually do everything so I will have a baseline and can judge everything from a known mileage.
Lube all pivot points. Clutch and brake lever pivot bolt. Gear Shifter and rear brake pivot bolts. Change clutch, brake fluid now and every 2 yrs. I used to change my coolant every two years. It always came out looking new. I now do 5 years like a car... and it looks almost new.
What year is your bike? Change out your fork oil. I used to do it every 2 years. I do it by miles now. Between 20-25,000 or if I do a lot of rough gravel it gets done earlier. You might think about upgrading your fork springs when you do that service. Search my "What TenereGUY has been up to" I do a fork service with pictures. Also give source for a great kit for servicing upside-down forks.
Wouldn't hurt to remove your rear wheel and clean and grease your rear drive spline. That's also in the thread. Upgrade your headlight bulbs. I bought some Oxilam LEDS for $17-19 and they are MUCH better than stock bulbs. That's in the thread.
Be careful checking spokes. Have a small torque wrench so the small amount isn't on the very bottom of the range as they get inaccurate on either hi or low end of the range.
Congratulations on your purchase. They are a fine bike.
OP- unless you ride off road or dusty gravel roads your air filter can also go between valve checks.
When I buy a bike I usually do everything so I will have a baseline and can judge everything from a known mileage.
Lube all pivot points. Clutch and brake lever pivot bolt. Gear Shifter and rear brake pivot bolts. Change clutch, brake fluid now and every 2 yrs. I used to change my coolant every two years. It always came out looking new. I now do 5 years like a car... and it looks almost new.
What year is your bike? Change out your fork oil. I used to do it every 2 years. I do it by miles now. Between 20-25,000 or if I do a lot of rough gravel it gets done earlier. You might think about upgrading your fork springs when you do that service. Search my "What TenereGUY has been up to" I do a fork service with pictures. Also give source for a great kit for servicing upside-down forks.
Wouldn't hurt to remove your rear wheel and clean and grease your rear drive spline. That's also in the thread. Upgrade your headlight bulbs. I bought some Oxilam LEDS for $17-19 and they are MUCH better than stock bulbs. That's in the thread.
Be careful checking spokes. Have a small torque wrench so the small amount isn't on the very bottom of the range as they get inaccurate on either hi or low end of the range.
Congratulations on your purchase. They are a fine bike.
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
You're going to get different opinions on anti seize on spark plug threads. I never put any on; the NGK plugs I've used specified that they're supposed to go in dry, since they already have an anti-corrosion plating on them. I've installed 24 spark plugs in the S10 since I've owned it, and never had one that got stuck. I've never used any on any of the plugs I've installed in cars, either.
If you decide you do want to put anti seize on the plugs, don't go by the recommended torque setting for the plug (if there are any). If you lubricate the threads, you have to reduce torque by anywhere from (I think) 20% to 50%, depending on what lubricant is used. You do have to be careful when screwing a steel plug into an aluminum head, especially in fine threads; too much torque can cause the threads in the aluminum head to strip.
If you decide you do want to put anti seize on the plugs, don't go by the recommended torque setting for the plug (if there are any). If you lubricate the threads, you have to reduce torque by anywhere from (I think) 20% to 50%, depending on what lubricant is used. You do have to be careful when screwing a steel plug into an aluminum head, especially in fine threads; too much torque can cause the threads in the aluminum head to strip.
gunslinger_006
Well-Known Member
Subscribed. I did most of the 20k early at like 14k. Ill do it again at probably 25k plus finally get the updated cct. I have a gen 1.
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