2014 ES Spark Plug Best Practice Details ??

[Harry Dresden PI]

Been waiting to do a throttle body sync and then decided I should change the air filter and spark plugs before doing a TBS on my 2014 ES S10 ... Got the OEM air filter and NGK plugs ...


After doing some searching of the world's best database (this forum) and the rest of the internet ... I still have a few questions before I replace my first set of spark plugs ...


1. Suggested to use a 6 point (not 12 point) 16 mm ... 5/8 inch spark plug socket with rubber not magnetic inserts to hold the plug (3/8" drive) ?

2. Should anti seize compound be used on the new spark plug thread ? ( reduce final torque by about 30% ? )

3. Blow out the area around the park plug holes before removing the old plugs ?

4. Should you use dielectric grease on the spark plug ceramic to help prevent corrosion and electrical arcing ?

Any other comments on spark plug changing ... air filter changing ... or TBS ... or tools .... would be welcomed or at least smiled at ....

 

[Bigbore4]

The boots on the coils seal fairly well. Not much gets into the plug well. Blow off or vacuum the top of the engine before you pull the coils. I used a 5/8 swivel spark plug socket with the rubber insert. It is a 6 pt. There are varying opinions on anti seize. I don't use it. If you do, get the copper stuff. If I was using anti seize, instead of torque I would go old school and go 1/4 turn past finger tight. That's for gasketed plugs which is what we have. Anti seize dramatically affects torque.

I used dielectric grease mainly to hep facilitate coil removal at next change. First time I did plugs I had one hung up and broke the mounting tab off trying to get it free. This last change they greased right off, pun intended.

Tapered seat plugs would be 1/8 turn past finger tight FYI.

 

[holligl]

Been waiting to do a throttle body sync and then decided I should change the air filter and spark plugs before doing a TBS on my 2014 ES S10 ... Got the OEM air filter and NGK plugs ...


After doing some searching of the world's best database (this forum) and the rest of the internet ... I still have a few questions before I replace my first set of spark plugs ...


1. Suggested to use a 6 point (not 12 point) 16 mm ... 5/8 inch spark plug socket with rubber not magnetic inserts to hold the plug (3/8" drive) ?

2. Should anti seize compound be used on the new spark plug thread ? ( reduce final torque by about 30% ? )

3. Blow out the area around the park plug holes before removing the old plugs ?

4. Should you use dielectric grease on the spark plug ceramic to help prevent corrosion and electrical arcing ?

Any other comments on spark plug changing ... air filter changing ... or TBS ... or tools .... would be welcomed or at least smiled at ....

1. While I messed around getting a rubber plug in my socket, when I got done, I realized the plug socket in the OEM tool kit probably works the best.

3. Absolutely, yes

2. & 4. Didn't bother.

One helpful tool for removing the breather hose clamp - 90* needle nose pliers. Needed the wide grip fto squeeze the wide clamp.

 

[EricV]

The above posts are good advise. NGK plugs have a coating on the threads that helps avoid seizing, so skip or very lightly use the anit-seize.

Absolutely forget about using a torque wrench on the spark plugs. Over kill and can result in stripped threads. Snug them up, then 1/8 to 1/4 turn more to seat the washer.

Yes, vac/blow off the top of the head area before removing the coil/plug boots.

Sometimes the boots stick to the plug. Some of this depends on the plug design. Smooth body on the ceramic will be more likely for this to occur. A little dielectric grease on the smooth ceramic helps this and won't cause other issues. It's more about keeping the boot from sticking than about electric connection.

Tips - It's easier to get to the far right, (throttle side), coil bolt from the front of the engine with a box wrench. Go in above the header pipes.

The air cleaner lid has a hidden screw under the rubber plug in the center of the air box lid. Pull the plug, then you will find that last screw. You don't have to fully remove the fuel tank, but if you prop or bungee it in the tilted back position, you will want a short screw driver for the screws on that end of the air box.

I use long handle hose pliers for the breather hose clamp, but something longer than standard needle nose helps getting that clamp back on.

 

[SilverBullet]

10mm ratcheting/pivoting box end wrench is worth the investment. Makes for less work removing the fuel tank also.
Installing plugs I always drop them in and start the threads using a length of vinyl tubing. Makes cross threading absolutely impossible.

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[Pterodactyl]

The Tenere is known for sometimes allowing water to get into the spark plug wells. I recommend using some dielectric grease between the lip of the plug well and the sealing edge of the stick coil, and double check that all the coils are properly seated. This is the #1 cylinder, outboard plug from my Tenere with 19,000 miles. Not a rare sight with Teneres. Note the water line on the coil; must have been 2-3 inches of water in there. I don't use a pressure washer on the bike, and it would be damn near impossible to get a direct spray of any sort on the coil while washing the bike.

 

[2daMax]

Ditto on Cyl #1 on water ingress. Big suspicion that the water comes from the front, probably splashes from the front tire and went through the opening between the Engine Top and Frame. Rest of the cylinders are 'blocked'.

I did a couple of things, both are using O-rings.

1st attempt that did not fit so well was to fit a Oring in between the 2 existing ones on the coil. When the coil is inserted into the wells, this o-ring will dislodge. Not a very good seal, I must say.

2nd attempt, a larger O-ring, with the ID smaller than the well's opening diameter. Using the Coil's top head (?? I dunno what its's called) to compress the O-ring such that the O-ring is in between the Coil top head and engine cover. I have not checked if this is effective but I believe this works better than the 1st attempt.

 

[bnschroder]

Question to folks who got water in their spark plug holes: Do you store your bike outside regularly or do you typically cover?
While I periodically run in the rain and trough water, I would expect that engine heat would typically quickly take care of any water ingress.

 

[SilverBullet]

Question to folks who got water in their spark plug holes: Do you store your bike outside regularly or do you typically cover?
While I periodically run in the rain and trough water, I would expect that engine heat would typically quickly take care of any water ingress.

And if outside uncovered do they park on side stand or center stand?

I've never seen even a hint of this on my bike after 2+ yrs and 65k miles. Plenty of water crossings and riding in the rain but bike is garaged every night except when traveling.

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