2014 ES Heated Grip OHMs??

gaps

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I'm hoping of one of you ES owners might check the resistance of the OEM grips in an effort to help some of us low rent Non ES owners. We hope to fit aftermarket grips to the OEM connectors but want to match the OHMs of the OEM grips.
The two connectors are located under the right side cover and have two wires each, one gray connector and one black. One has a black wire and a yellow wire and the other two yellows with I think a red tracer...they are under a large rubber sheath and a few inches above and forward of the battery...come on man, help a brother out 8)
 

Lutsie

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I would have checked the old fashioned way for you gaps, but wanted to give my new service manual a chance to prove its worth. Left resistance is 1.21 - 1.48 ohms right 1.17 - 1.43 ohms
 

gaps

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Lutsie said:
I would have checked the old fashioned way for you gaps, but wanted to give my new service manual a chance to prove its worth. Left resistance is 1.21 - 1.48 ohms right 1.17 - 1.43 ohms
Lutsie, thanks for the ohms numbers. They're not the numbers I was hoping for but you may have saved me from me...if aftermarket grips are around 6 ohms what would it mean if connected to the 2014 harness? Can't figure that now....we're having a Sunday afternoon Xmas party and the cherry shine has me in its gripp!!
 

Lutsie

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Glad I could help. I'm going to meet with the brain trust tomorrow( father and brother in law, all three of us are Jack mechanics) and will bring up the topic and see if we can come to a conclusion and possibly a work around.
 

markjenn

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I think the ES heated grip resistance are unusually low because the bike uses a duty-cycle controller to control temperature, rapidly cycling the grips on/off. They probably are off most of the time. Most aftermarket grips assume they'll be supplied current continually. My guess is that if you wire up aftermarket grip heating elements (with typical 5-20 ohm resistance), to the ES, you'll likely get pretty anemic heat output, although perhaps if you crank them up to max, it might be acceptable.... on the old S10's with the controller, anything over half-way was too much. (The lower the resistance, the more current draw and and more heat generated - at the extreme, dead shorts get real hot real fast.)

Other than Yamaha, don't have a source for low-resistance grips. I doubt anybody makes anything down near 1-ohm unless it is specifically designed for a mostly-off duty cycle controller as it would be wildly hot and consume huge current if fed continuously.

- Mark
 

gaps

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markjenn, that explains it. How did you figure out they are pulsed anyway? I'm probably taking it too far with this but do you know if the pulse could be defeated? is that a separate component?
It's time for Oxford or another to offer low resistance grips with the appropriate plugs. It's robbery to pay Yamaha $359 or so for a fugn heating element...at least on the early version you bought a controller, with the 14 it seems the kit is a pair of grips and that's it....
 

S_Palmer

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If I am understanding you right you are connecting to the oem power source but not using
an oem controller? Does the 2014 have the controller built in ahead of the power source plug even
though there were no factory heated grips?

If the power source is just a hot wire like the 2012 why are you concerned about the ohms?
 

gaps

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S_Palmer said:
Does the 2014 have the controller built in ahead of the power source plug even
though there were no factory heated grips?

If the power source is just a hot wire like the 2012 why are you concerned about the ohms?
S Palmer, yes, the 2014 controller is completely different from the 2011-13. On the 14 it's integrated into the left side bar switches and show settings on the lcd dash display. It seems the 14 also pulses current to control the temp rather than controlling amps.
The aftermarket grips I'm familiar with operate on constant power and draw around 2 or 3 amps. These 2014 grips would pull around 10A if connected direct...or 130W :eek:
 

markjenn

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gaps said:
markjenn, that explains it. How did you figure out they are pulsed anyway? I'm probably taking it too far with this but do you know if the pulse could be defeated? is that a separate component?
It's time for Oxford or another to offer low resistance grips with the appropriate plugs. It's robbery to pay Yamaha $359 or so for a fugn heating element...at least on the early version you bought a controller, with the 14 it seems the kit is a pair of grips and that's it....
The clunky rheostat on the old bikes is also a duty-cycle controller and these sorts of systems are common on heated clothing as they are a much more efficient way to continuously control temperature compared to a variable resistor. When the new instrument cluster came out on the 2014, Yamaha put all the controls into the software on the new dash. I don't know if the resistance/duty-cycle changed from the old to the new bikes but it sounds like it probably has. And I don't think anyone has ever put the heated grips output on an oscilloscope yet. It's just how these things are generally done. AFAIK, the pulsing circuitry and control is completely integrated into the bike and the temp control function is in non-user-modifiable firmware. If there is a way to change or defeat it, I'm not aware of it.

We had a discussion of heated grip acc costs when the 2014 came out as someone was trying to decide whether it was better to get the ES or get the non-ES and buy the grips. At the time, I recall Yamaha had dropped the price of the heated grip kit for the new bikes ($275?) which somewhat took into account the fact the 2014 models don't need the controller. But I just checked and I don't see the break any longer which is a crock. I agree with you - Yamaha has always been "too proud" of these kits, but $400 for the grips alone (w/o the controller) seems ridiculous. There is some extra engineering in Yamaha's design vs. aftermarket.... for example, Yamaha provides a new housing on the throttle side that coils up wire inside the perch rather than just having it dangle below the bars. I think this pricing reflects Yamaha wanting to push buyers to the ES by not providing a cost-effective way to upgrade the non-ES.

There's another aspect to this to keep in mind. One reason Yamaha may have dramatically dropped the resistance (and upped the power) in the new bike is because they switched from a steel handlebar to aluminum and aluminum has about 2.5x the thermal conductivity of steel. I've used Symtec heated elements under grips and they work great on steel bars but generally don't put out enough heat on alum. Now Yamaha's elements are embedded in the grip itself, so perhaps the high thermal conductivity to the alum bar is not as big an issue, but with elements you lay against the bar, it certainly is. Insulting the bar helps some (e.g., with big heat shrink tubing), but is not as good as having the element embedded in the grip rubber.

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/symtec-heat-demon-heated-grips

For the record, here are the resistances of Symtecs (which are too high for your application):

Throttle side: 9.6 ohms high element, 19.2 low element
Clutch side: 7.5 ohms high element, 12.8 low element

One hare-brained idea I can offer is to use the Symtecs wired to the bike's heated grip connector, but use two sets and wire the two separate elements in each grip in parallel so you'd have four separate elements all on per side. (Normally you wire Symtecs so that you switch between the high and low elements depending on the Hi/Lo switch - this is how they get two heating levels without a resistor or duty-cycle controller.) Parallel wiring of two sets with both elements results in an overall resistance of 2.7 ohms. Still too high but if the 2014 system has anywhere near the "headroom" of the old system, you might have plenty of heat. But as I said before, you would need to insulate the bar or it will just suck the heat away.

Sorry I don't have better suggestions. Notwithstanding someone selling low-resistance grips, it appears your best options are to just suck up the cost of the Yamaha grips or go totally aftermarket and not use the controller in the bike.

- Mark
 

gaps

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Spam16, it seems you're a pioneer here, hope you have a go and give us your impression.

Poking around the Hot Grips site I see they offer a few models around 2.4 ohm...that might work...dunno.
 

markjenn

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spam16v said:
How far off would I be with 1 set of Symtecs spliced?
Wiring both sets of heating elements in parallel on each side, 6.4 ohms throttle side, 4.7 ohms clutch side.

- Mark
 

spam16v

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I have to powdercoat my bars, clamps and upper triple clamp. When I'm done I'm going to run Pro-grip 714 grips and hopefully it works out.
 
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