+12V Only when engine running?

gs_rider

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I believe I have seen this either on the S10 forum on adv.com but I cannot find it now. But I may be thinking about an entirely different bike so I need help.

Is there some where near the battery that I can pick up +12V to switch a relay but only available when the engine is actually running?

I'm thinking this would be the best way to hook up a fuse box so there is no battery drain when the switch is on but the engine is not running.

thanks for any assistance.

Harry
 

colorider

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Yep, both the heated grip connector and the aux fog lights connector have switched wires available. This is where I trigger my fuzeblock.

Try a search for fuzeblock.

Rod
 

gs_rider

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ColoRider said:
Yep, both the heated grip connector and the aux fog lights connector have switched wires available. This is where I trigger my fuzeblock.

Try a search for fuzeblock.

Rod
Wow! Was that quick. Now you are saying that either of those two wires have no power when you turn the bike on and don't have power on them until the bike is started and running?

It would make sense (unlike some other bikes :)) that you wouldn't want power on the heated grips until after the bike is running.

thanks again,

Harry
 

colorider

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gs_rider said:
Wow! Was that quick. Now you are saying that either of those two wires have no power when you turn the bike on and don't have power on them until the bike is started and running?

It would make sense (unlike some other bikes :)) that you wouldn't want power on the heated grips until after the bike is running.

thanks again,

Harry
IIRC, at least one wire is not live until the engine starts - just like the headlight.
 

jajpko

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gs_rider said:
I believe I have seen this either on the S10 forum on adv.com but I cannot find it now. But I may be thinking about an entirely different bike so I need help.

Is there some where near the battery that I can pick up +12V to switch a relay but only available when the engine is actually running?

I'm thinking this would be the best way to hook up a fuse box so there is no battery drain when the switch is on but the engine is not running.

thanks for any assistance.

Harry
Both the heated grip plug and the aux headlight plug will have a switched wire. The female end is connected to the male and if you know your dealers tech he may sell you the correct pin to use on the female side. It makes a nice neat hookup.
 

Firefight911

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Both the heated grip and the auxiliary light are hot with key only. The do not mandate engine running in their protocol.
 

stevepsd

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I just looked at the USA XT12Z wiring diagram and it shows that on the 4 pin grip heater plug that there are two 12 volt power sources. Hummm....

One of the power leads (black/green) only has power when the engine is running (get's it power when the headlight relay closes, triggered by a ECU signal).

The other power lead (blue/black) gets power when the ignition is switched on.

So why two power connections?

Or is this a misprint in the wiring schematic?
 

gs_rider

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Firefight911 said:
Both the heated grip and the auxiliary light are hot with key only. The do not mandate engine running in their protocol.
I was worried about that so thanks for the "kick in the pants" I needed to look at the wiring diagram.

It "appears" to me as if there are only two circuits/relays that are NOT powered until the ecu turns them on. I'm "assuming" (again a risk) that the ecu does not turn them on until the engine is actually running. The ecu does not supply power to the two relays but only provides a ground to actuate them.

What, you may ask, are those two circuits/relays? The big battery killers. of course. The fan relay and the headlights relay. Now, since I am not a Yamaha mechanic and didn't sleep in a Holiday Inn last night, I could very well be wrong. Those wiring diagrams are HARD to read. Especially for eyes that were past high school age when John Kennedy departed this life.

The fan relay only supplies power to the fan. Besides the headlights, the headlight relay looks like it also would supply power to the optional grip warmers. The optional accessory lights look like they would have power on when the key is on.

So, it looks like I can pick up a "ground" from the ecu circuit or +12 volts to actuate my fuse box on the output side of either relay. Now I just have to find all the connectors and wires to see which is the easiest to get to.

More as this plays out.
 

stevepsd

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The grip heater plug is easy to access. Right next to the tool kit.
 

jajpko

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If you use the blue/black lead that stevepsd referred to as a trigger wire for the fuze block and run a hot with fuse and a ground from the battery, you will have it done. just sayin
 

gs_rider

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Well, I finally found them. They are easily accessible just not visible until you move the other cables out of the way. Both the aux lights and the grip heater plugs are right beside the tool pouch.

I'm waiting on my horns before I continue on with the installation.

I'm going to end up with horns, gps, aux lights, heated gloves, and heated vest running off my bluesea box.

I'm thinking I might also break down and install heated grips for that sort of "in-between" weather. :)

I'm going to use the heated grips plug to drive my bluesea box as the aux light plug has power when the key is on. I only want power to it when the bike is actually running. I might set the aux lights up where they are on with just the key to provide just a little light if needed when not on the bike. Not sure yet.

More later.
 

gs_rider

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Just a short update. I ordered my horns at the same time I put the last update on. I got one of them fairly quickly and I've been waiting on the other one for all this time. I still don't have it. Amazon is usually quick in shipping but not this time.

More when I get my other horn.
 

gbergma1

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I apologize if this has come up before but I dried to look through the prior forums and doing a search.

I can do mechanical stuff all day, but electrical, I think I am missing a section in my brain.

I plan to use the stock auxiliary light plug of the XT1200Z, easy to find, I also Jim's website with all the bits to make this clean. My trouble is I don’t understand relays and switching. The light is single unit, it only has two wires coming off of it, positive and negative.

As I understand it the stock auxiliary light plug only becomes hot when the bike is on, fine by me, but this new light is so bright I need s switch so I can turn it off. Now the sticking point, I am pretty sure I don’t want to put a switch in line with the full battery power, so I assume this is where the relay comes in. I assume there is already a relay somewhere farther of the chain with the stock plug, hence the third wire in the plug. Is that the one I switch to? My end goal is a clean install that uses the stock plug and I can turn it on and off with the bike on. If I accidentally do not turn the light off, it will not drain the battery when I remove the key or turn the motor off.

If someone can sketch a quick diagram on a napkin with a crayon showing me what the 3 wires of the stock auxiliary plug do, how I wire it up to my 2 wire light, and the simple on/off switch, I will send something local and fermented. Dumb it way down, about a 3rd grade level. Thanks for your patience.
 

hojo in sc

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If someone can sketch a quick diagram on a napkin with a crayon showing me what the 3 wires of the stock auxiliary plug do, how I wire it up to my 2 wire light, and the simple on/off switch, I will send something local and fermented. Dumb it way down, about a 3rd grade level. Thanks for your patience.
[/quote]

I can't take credit for the sketch; http://www.gadgetjq.com/wiredrivinglights.htm \
 

hojo in sc

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Sorry, I got lost there and will finish this post;

1. Take a good wire and run it from #30 of the relay to the battery (having a fuse inline isn't a bad idea). This way when you turn your device on (lights) the relay will pull the power from directly from the battery)
2, Take a wire and run it from #85 of the relay to a good ground (neg. side of the battery is a sure spot). Now the relay is grounded.
3. Find a wire that comes on only with the key turned on and run it to #86 on the relay. Now the relay will come "on" only when the bike is turned 'on'. But remember, the relay will pull it's power from the battery to run the device (lights) and now a low power source).
4. Run a wire from #87 to the device (lights). By running a wire straight to the device, it will come on whenever you turn the bike on. If you want to be able to turn the device off whenever you want, run a wire from #87 to a power switch 'input', then run a wire from the switch 'output' to the device.

Or, do the same thing in steps 1-3, then for step 4, run a wire to a fuse block so you can power several things. Your only limited by the size wires you use and the amp rating of the fuse block. If you add a fuse panel, step 5 would be to run a wire from the fuse block to the device or to a switch that goes to a device.

Hope this helps.
 

gbergma1

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The proverbial light just came on (pun intended). I hate electrons but hojo in SC you saved my rear. PM me your address and I will get something in the mail. Appreciate the help! I didn't want to take the bike to the shop because I was afraid they would do a half !@# job on running the wires, I can't have it look any worse than stock.
 
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