100,000 mile replacement stuff

[~TABASCO~]

Question about the clutch slave....

I'm going to add this to my springtime overhaul. However, I looked on line at the various OEM parts suppliers and I've found that they don't list the two seals for the slave cylinder as separate items; apparently you can only buy the entire clutch slave cylinder as a unit. All Balls doesn't list a kit for the Super Tenere either. If I'm going to take the cylinder apart to inspect the piston and clean it all up, I'd like to be able to replace the seals and spring while I'm in there.

Anyone know of a source for the seals, or a rebuild kit for the cylinder?

Not available that I have found- ever. When my friends slave needed to be replaced he went to order a new stock unit. They reported back something like a 4 month back order. I suggested the “Off De Road” German made unit. He ordered it for less money and had it in like 4-5 days.

 

[RCinNC]

Not available that I have found- ever. When my friends slave needed to be replaced he went to order a new stock unit. They reported back something like a 4 month back order. I suggested the “Off De Road” German made unit. He ordered it for less money and had it in like 4-5 days.

Evidently at some point in the past All Balls made one; I found a listing for it on eBay, but the item wasn't available any longer. I'll look up the Off De Road one, thanks. It's odd that you can get master cylinder and caliper rebuild kits, but not one for the clutch slave.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Evidently at some point in the past All Balls made one; I found a listing for it on eBay, but the item wasn't available any longer. I'll look up the Off De Road one, thanks. It's odd that you can get master cylinder and caliper rebuild kits, but not one for the clutch slave.

Unless yours is leaking or the piston is not square in the bore your probably good to keep going. We took a look at the inside of his and the piston was wearing the inside bore and the aluminum ’shavings’ started damaging the seals. This typically only is happing on high mile bikes.
Note: the off de road works great and feels better than the stock. And I do believe they offer rebuild parts.

If / when you have the slave pulled off, pull the push rod out and inspect the other end closest to the clutch basket. Make sure the tip is in good shape and the ball has not dug (wore) a “pit” out on that end. People with high miles should probably replace it because of the excess wear. Along with the #24-25-26 parts on the clutch schematics. The two metal objects on either side of the ball being will pit. This worn area does not visually look like much wear, but with the high tolerance parts of the clutch it is a lot of wear. You will feel the difference in clutch action the first time you ride it after this service.
For many people, if you put the bike in first gear and it jumps forward hard, or you have the clutch pulled in and you feel it creeping a little. Most of the time the issue are these two wear parts.

 

[RCinNC]

Unless yours is leaking or the piston is not square in the bore your probably good to keep going. We took a look at the inside of his and the piston was wearing the inside bore and the aluminum ’shavings’ started damaging the seals. This typically only is happing on high mile bikes.
Note: the off de road works great and feels better than the stock. And I do believe they offer rebuild parts.

If / when you have the slave pulled off, pull the push rod out and inspect the other end closest to the clutch basket. Make sure the tip is in good shape and the ball has not dug (wore) a “pit” out on that end. People with high miles should probably replace it because of the excess wear. Along with the #24-25-26 parts on the clutch schematics. The two metal objects on either side of the ball being will pit. This worn area does not visually look like much wear, but with the high tolerance parts of the clutch it is a lot of wear. You will feel the difference in clutch action the first time you ride it after this service.
For many people, if you put the bike in first gear and it jumps forward hard, or you have the clutch pulled in and you feel it creeping a little. Most of the time the issue are these two wear parts.

As far as those symptoms, I haven't experienced them, and nothing is leaking. The bike has just about 86,500 miles on it now. I've never cleaned out the clutch slave cylinder though, so I'm going to include that on my springtime maintenance. A lot of the stuff on your list, I've done as periodic maintenance. The forks get serviced every two years, and I even replaced the pistons and seals in them at 67,000 miles as a preventative maintenance thing. I did the steering head at 67,000 miles at the same time (back in 2020) and all was still good, though I already had a new set of bearings and races on hand just in case. The rear wheel bearings were replaced at about 61,500 after the non drive side got a little notchy. The clutch hub still has the original bearing, as does the front wheel. Clutch, brakes and radiator get flushed every two years.

I'm overdue on swingarm maintenance; I last had it off at 55,500 miles back in 2019. All was well then, but I might order a set of bearings for the swingarm and relay arm for the big spring maintenance push.

I appreciate the post you made here, plus all the other maintenance advice you've provided over the years that I've been here. I've cut and pasted several of your posts and appended them to my service manual.

 

[~TABASCO~]

As far as those symptoms, I haven't experienced them, and nothing is leaking. The bike has just about 86,500 miles on it now. I've never cleaned out the clutch slave cylinder though, so I'm going to include that on my springtime maintenance. A lot of the stuff on your list, I've done as periodic maintenance. The forks get serviced every two years, and I even replaced the pistons and seals in them at 67,000 miles as a preventative maintenance thing. I did the steering head at 67,000 miles at the same time (back in 2020) and all was still good, though I already had a new set of bearings and races on hand just in case. The rear wheel bearings were replaced at about 61,500 after the non drive side got a little notchy. The clutch hub still has the original bearing, as does the front wheel. Clutch, brakes and radiator get flushed every two years.

I'm overdue on swingarm maintenance; I last had it off at 55,500 miles back in 2019. All was well then, but I might order a set of bearings for the swingarm and relay arm for the big spring maintenance push.

I appreciate the post you made here, plus all the other maintenance advice you've provided over the years that I've been here. I've cut and pasted several of your posts and appended them to my service manual.

FYI- you probably don’t need swing arm bearings or lower suspention bearings. Those are typically “iron” unless you have some type of play. I’ve never replaced a set. I’m saying this so you don’t waste money or time. Clean and lube them super good and that should be A-OK.

 

[RCinNC]

Thanks, Tabasco, I appreciate the guidance. I'll plan on leaving those bearings off the shopping list then. Last time I cleaned them out really well and repacked the bearings with BelRay waterproof bearing grease. I made sure the pivot shaft got a good coating also, plus moly on the driveshaft splines.

 

[wera688]

on both my middle/high mileage Tenere's my clutch lever needs pumping a few times in the cold weather to build pressure. No issue when its warm. I never found any slave seals on the web either. Funny because on the V-Strom they are available and quite easy and quick to replace.