avc8130 said:
Dallara,
Slag away. It seems like we have a similar enough riding style and philosophy of use for the Tenere that I find your opinion quite valuable.
I have tried...as hard as I can...but I simply cannot ride more than 5% of my miles on dirt and gravel roads. They simply just don't exist by me that I have been able to find. Just like no matter how hard I try I just can't get enough extreme twisties in my riding balance to prevent a flat spot. The roads I commute on just aren't twisty enough.
In fact, lately when I have found dirt/gravel roads I have been with guys on Tiger 1050s. These guys are running 17" front wheels and 180 profile rears. PR3s on both of em. Neither had any real trouble with dirt and gravel ROADS.
I'm with you though. I want the ADV tire...mostly for the look and the DREAM of riding more dirt. So far, with the exception of the Battlewing, I don't think I have given up too much on the compromise.
K60s? NO WAY. Not for me unless I had a REAL dirt trip planned.
How about a personal question? When you are at the very end of that A3, are you in a street attack position? Upper and lower bodies moved over, attacking? Or are you in a more traditional upright position "leaning her in"?
Any chance you could post some pics of your A3s?
ac
I'm with you on the K-60's. I know people love 'em, but just about no matter where I go I've got to ride a bunch of pavement miles just to *GET* to fun off-road stuff, and I don't want to compromise the handling performance of my bike on tarmac just for a few minutes, or even and hour or so of better off-road performance... Only then to turn around and have to ride back home on pavement. Like it or not, where I live I'll always have to ride a lot more on pavement than on dirt, so why would I want to compromise handling prowess on the surface I spend at least 85%-90% of my riding time on for a bit better off-road performance? The math just doesn't work... Base my tire choice on 5% to 15% of my riding miles> Or base it on where I spend 85% to 95% of my riding?
Seems like a no-brainer to me.
Besides, I rode flat tracks, MX, enduros, and hare scrambles enough that I can get along OK off-road with street-biased rubber. Sure, it's more work, and you have to be careful of surface conditions, line selection, depth of soil, etc., but what else is new? Everything is a compromise, so it seems the place I ride the least should be compromised the most, and vice versa.
And like you, the unfortunate truth of riding in my area is that there are a *LOT* of straight roads to get to the curvy, twisty, snaky, fun ones... Hence my rear tire can often get squared off, too. Hell, it's over 200 miles from here just to get to the real beginning of the Texas Hill Country!!! Doesn't help that I like to ride long distances on my Super Tenere, either. All too often that requires droning a lot on less than challenging pavement, so more squaring of the tire. All I can do is try to bevel the hell out of it, and get it back into rounded tread profile once I get to the squiggly bits!
Riding position? Well, first let me say this... Most of my WERA road racing years were spent on big, Jap superbikes. Endurance racing modded Kawasaki Z-1's. Sprint and endurance racing DOHC Honda CB750F and CB900F's, and even a few races on Honda CBX's!!! Most all had 19' fronts and 18" rear wheels, and I was just exiting the motorcycle road racing scene when 16" fronts and stiff frames were coming online. I rode a some WERA Formula II and III on two-stroke road racers, too, but in those days they had 18" wheels at both ends. Point is that big hoop front wheels don't distress me in the slightest... I may even like 'em better. Sure, they inherently steer slower, but then they're far more stable entering, during, and exiting the corner. They just take a bit more muscle, along with some understanding of their characteristics. One of the reasons I like 'em is that they pretty much negate the need for any sort of steering damper, either on-road or off. As long as you keep 'em rolling a big 19" hoop is pretty hard to deflect off-line.
Anyway, I never hung off a bunch. I get over the front like I should, elbows up, over the tank, and the inside shoulder dropped, head rotated up and turned in to look *WAY* ahead and around the corner, eyes level with the horizon, etc., etc. A vast majority of the time I don't move my a** around too much on the seat... Like I said, I just roll my upper body in and drop the inside shoulder. However, if the the fun reel starts getting turned up to 78-speed I may slide my butt off, but even then it's just an ever so tiny amount. I was taught to get the thing turned pretty quick, so for the most part I dime it a bit... Run it in hard on the brakes, trail them in to the apex as I get rolled in, get it turned, then picked it up and drive out. It's during this "pick it up" stage, and just before, that the Anakee 3 gives up on me and slides away. I've tried picking it up sooner, but that doesn't seem to help enough. Seems like once it lets loose over on the edge it takes it being completely picked up before it recovers.
Now mind you... I *NEVER* ride at 10/10ths on the street. I just won't. These days I ride at about 75 to 80% of what I feel like my pavement limits are. Maybe 85% if the going gets fun with the right folks (or I'm by myself), but I try to never exceed 90% of what I feel like I have in the talent/skill tank - ever - on the street. It's not worth it, and I like having at least that much in reserve for the unexpected. I used to run at 100% on the race track, and did it for years, and that was enough. Now the trick is to always get back home, period. No clipped apex is worth sheet time in the hospital these days, or worse.
I have to also admit that I'm not one of those who likes to drag things. When I was learning road racing the goal was to go as fast as possible *WITHOUT* dragging any parts of your body. Sure, my Bates leathers had velcro knee sliders on 'em, but they were thin pieces of leather in those days, and the only time you drug your knee was saving a slide or a tucked front end. You used your knee to unload the tire and let it get hooked back up, not to try and be stylish. If you can get most all of your real actual turning done while the front's still loaded then ground clearance is never really ever an issue.
OK, now maybe you have an idea of where I come from... And basically, for me, the Anakee 3's let loose right at the transition where I am picking up the throttle at the apex, and I'm just starting to pick the bike up from max lean.
As for pics of the Anakee 3's... The only ones I have are from no too long after I put 'em on. I think they had only 150-200 miles on 'em, maybe 300 max, in these pics...
First, the front:
And here's the rear....
Not sure those help ya' much since they're so new in the pics, but they're all I got right now. Maybe I can get some more once my ECU gets back next week... ECUnleashed wrote me today to tell me my ECU had been "delayed" and wouldn't go out today, damn it!!!
Dallara
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