I strip my oil change bolt.

[louis verville]

I over Tightening (tork) one of my change oil bolt and now it is loose. What are my option ?

 

[RCinNC]

I've read that the stripped out hole is just the right size for a 1/2"-20 tap. If you tap that hole with a 1/2"-20 tap, you can replace the original 12mm drain bolt with a 1/2"-20 bolt. If you go this route, I'd remove the oil pan, so there's no chance of getting metal shavings inside the engine.

I've never tried this, so be aware that I can't advocate it from personal experience; I just recall reading somewhere on this forum in the past decade that someone did it successfully.

 

[Cycledude]

Or you could buy a new oil pan from Yamaha and hopefully don’t strip it again.
You are definitely not the first or last to have this happen.

 

[Bigguy136]

Why not install a Heli-coil? Then you continue using original drain plug.

 

[Boris]

Oil pan on the fiche, if I’ve checked correctly, is about £175 in the UK. Previous comparisons suggest equivalent parts are cheaper in the US, if you can import from there?

 

[~TABASCO~]

Install a Time-Sert kit and be done with it..... Stronger than the cast aluminum. The kit works very well and provide enough parts to do both drain plugs if you like....

 

[louis verville]

Can i do the installation of the Time- Sert with the oil pan on the bike or i have to removed it ?

 

[~TABASCO~]

Can i do the installation of the Time- Sert with the oil pan on the bike or i have to removed it ?

Remove it 100%.... you do not want any "instal" garbage inside the motor..... You would also get a much better result working on your work bench, and not down on the ground breaking your back and neck ! ! !


If your going this direction, I would highly suggest you get this exact brand... Not a different brand that looks the same, Etc.... Not a less expensive brand..... The actual brand....... Ive used these many times over many years......


Later you can ask me why - LOL..................

 

[Ladlesport]

I gotta agree with @Tabasco
Timesert and be done.

Way better than a Heli-Coil, they are old tech.

 

[louis verville]

Do we have a video on how to removed the oil pan ? Is it difficult at all for a beginner ?

 

[scott123007]

I gotta agree with @Tabasco
Timesert and be done.

Way better than a Heli-Coil, they are old tech.

It is a skillset thing.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Do we have a video on how to removed the oil pan ? Is it difficult at all for a beginner ?

VERY easy... just make sure you get the 1-2 hidden bolts that are "hiding" in the recess......

When you do take it off there is a "joining tube"..... Typically it will always be stay stuck in the top, or come out with the pan........ No big deal, just dont loose it and be aware so it doesn't fall out when / if your not aware.......

Make sure to 'eye-ball' the oil pan pick up screen... Look up in that screen and make sure its clean... As in no debris stuck into it... DO NOT CLEAN this with solvents or any type cleaner.... JUST look at it.... (If you see anything other than oil and a metal screen, take 1-2 photos and post it... You should not see anything, and you probably wont.... Thats a good thing)

If / when you install the time-cert........... completely wash the inside and out side of the pan before reinstalling..... Like you can eat off the inside surface....

 

[EricV]

Maybe buy the Time-Sert kit and find someone more mechanically inclined to help you. And don't use torque wrenches on drain plugs any more.

 

[Fennellg]

Time-Sert is 70 bucks or so. How much is a new pan. Anyone know the part #. ?

Since you have to remove it any way.

 

[EricV]

Time-Sert is 70 bucks or so. How much is a new pan. Anyone know the part #. ?

Since you have to remove it any way.

Cover, Strainer 23P-13417-00-00 $281.40 usd. I doubt it will be any less painful in Canadian dollars.

 

[Bigguy136]

I gotta agree with @Tabasco
Timesert and be done.

Way better than a Heli-Coil, they are old tech.

Not to start a 'best oil' thread but I only see heli-coil for military spec. Not sure if military engineers are lazy or if they know something about time-sert? Maybe there is a new mil spec I don't have?
End of the day, I go for heli-coil first because the hole required is smaller than time-serts/ keenserts. If things go wrong with heli-coil, you have 1 more chance with the others.
I haven't worked with time-serts but all I saw was inserts with a stopping flange. How is that going to work on a sealing surface?
Not being a smart-ass, just never worked with time-serts.

 

[EricV]

This might be a more strait forward repair for someone not comfortable. @~TABASCO~ and I are machinists/fabricators and have done this stuff far too many times. It may be the OP's first time installing a thread repair kit. And it's cost effective.

M12.1-1.5 x 15mm Oversize Piggyback Oil Drain Plug, Stainless Steel Self Tapping Oil Pan Thread Repair Kit

 

[Fennellg]

 

[Fennellg]

I personally would tap it while attached. Change the oil after. Maybe do the grease trick also.

 

[EricV]

I personally would tap it while attached. Change the oil after. Maybe do the grease trick also.

There are a lot of factors in play. If you had a lift, lots easier than lying on the garage floor. If you've done this before and are comfortable getting things lined up correctly, have actual tap wrenches and experience tapping threads in aluminum, etc. What I would do, Vs what I'd suggest someone w/o any experience does are different things. The Time-Sert kit is one of the best quality repairs, if done correctly. Full contact threads, bonded in insert with mechanical lock.

The oversize thread repair kit I posted above is the easiest to do and while not what I would do myself, is a cost effective repair that most people can do successfully. I'd grease up the threads and then flush with some mineral spirits after. Any aluminum chips will be below the strainer.

I have a real concern that some of the oil pan bolts may be damaged during re-installation if the OP tries a full pan removal with out some assistance.