I strip my oil change bolt.

EricV

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The vendor is suggesting a M12.1x1.5x15mm is correct fitment. It's been a while since I double checked the thread size and pitch on the drain plug, so trust but verify.
 

~TABASCO~

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This might be a more strait forward repair for someone not comfortable. @~TABASCO~ and I are machinists/fabricators and have done this stuff far too many times. It may be the OP's first time installing a thread repair kit. And it's cost effective.

M12.1-1.5 x 15mm Oversize Piggyback Oil Drain Plug, Stainless Steel Self Tapping Oil Pan Thread Repair Kit

For sure... I personally would not suggest this Amazon solution for this type application. Unless it was a "just get me home" emergency..... If the original person does not feel comfortable, suggest just throw a new one on...... (send me the old one so I can fix it and offer 'help' to someone else). Ha-Ha...
 

EricV

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Considering the cost of the bike... taking it to a qualified repair shop might be a painful lesson that doesn't come back to haunt the owner later.
 

OldRider

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Most Honda ATV's use a 12mm drain plug. Over the years I've probably fixed several dozen stripped drain holes by tapping the hole with a 1/2x20 tap and putting in a 1/2" drain plug. When a 12mm drain hole is stripped out, it's just about the perfect size to tap to 1/2". If I ever have this problem, this is what I will do. JMO
 

EricV

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I use my 1/4" torque wrench with 180 inches-ft set and I have never had any problems......what was wrong?
I think you mean in/lbs, so 180 in/lbs would be 15 ft/lbs. (180/12=15) That's 2 fingers on the wrench. A good warning sign for anyone tightening a drain plug is if you have your entire hand on the wrench and are putting any effort into it, please stop! Snug, then just a tiny bit more like 1/8 rotation, if that.
 

bluebuick66

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I think you mean in/lbs, so 180 in/lbs would be 15 ft/lbs. (180/12=15) That's 2 fingers on the wrench. A good warning sign for anyone tightening a drain plug is if you have your entire hand on the wrench and are putting any effort into it, please stop! Snug, then just a tiny bit more like 1/8 rotation, if that.
You are right, the manual calls for 15 Lb-ft = 180 in-lb. that's the strength of a 3 years old girl. I have noticed people always associate "torque" with TONS of tension, and that has nothing to do with it. Torque is about "measuring" any tension applied on a fastener.
 

RCinNC

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I definitely don't like relying on a torque wrench when I'm dealing with relatively low torque settings and I'm screwing steel threads into aluminum threads. I'm ultra-cautious with things like spark plugs, and I've never put a torque wrench on a spark plug. Maybe I would if I had a high quality torque wrench that was regularly calibrated, but that isn't likely to happen.

I've pretty much always followed EricV's method; get it snug, and just a little more. So far I've never lost and drain bolt and never stripped the threads in the drain pan.
 

Sierra1

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Yup, just like my oil filter. Just a tad past hand tight. Never lost a bolt or filter. And never had a leak. (of course, my had tight might be a little tighter than others)
 

OldRider

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I just retired after fifty years twisting wrenches on motorcycles. I did thousands of oil changes and never once used a torque wrench. Use a new crush/sealing washer and just get it snug. Same goes for the bolts in a clutch pressure plate. You can read all day long on motorcycle pages about people breaking the 6mm pressure plate bolts using a TW. I do use a TW on head bolts, cam/crank bearings and a few other delicate parts in an engine. I've always torqued things in small steps. If it calls for 28 ft/lbs I would go 10, then 20 and finally 28.
 

Tenforeplay

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I think the spec’d torque from the manufacturer on a lot of the stuff is optimistic, I most always discount some amount. Unless IM building an engine or something similar and there is a reliance on bolt stretch.
 
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