Damper rod holder tool (M10 x 1.5)??
- Thread starter Huck
- Start date
SkunkWorks
Well-Known Member
I have the Motion-Pro tool. I'll have to look at it when I get home
SkunkWorks
Well-Known Member
OK, so the Motion Pro Tool has 10mmx1.0 on one end, and 10mmx1.25 on the other.
Now I have to see if I can figure out which end I used?
I might have a picture at home somewhere.
Now I have to see if I can figure out which end I used?
I might have a picture at home somewhere.
This is the most complicated, simple thing ever.
I've seen the forum guides showing the step by step process and tools needed for the rebuild, but the part about the damper rod holder is skipped past. Some people are using a tool like the one in the pic, but I haven't had my forks apart and can't understand how it works. It seems like the nut on the end of the damper rod will just spin as I turn the lower allen bolt on the fork bottom. I did just score a m10x1 lamp rod coupler from across the street. Thanks lamp shop!
Looks like I got the wrong motion pro damper holder tool...
I'ma go burn some more money.
I've seen the forum guides showing the step by step process and tools needed for the rebuild, but the part about the damper rod holder is skipped past. Some people are using a tool like the one in the pic, but I haven't had my forks apart and can't understand how it works. It seems like the nut on the end of the damper rod will just spin as I turn the lower allen bolt on the fork bottom. I did just score a m10x1 lamp rod coupler from across the street. Thanks lamp shop!
Looks like I got the wrong motion pro damper holder tool...
I'ma go burn some more money.
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Unless there is something wrong with the dampner mechanism, it does not need to be held or removed. You can replace seals and bushings without removing it. The puller is needed to retreave the rod and exercise the dampner to get the air out. I have never needed to remove the dampner. Some folks have done it with an impact driver and without a holder.
Just a note on the puller. When exercised, oil will be forced up the tube. (On the ES, one fork is on compression, the other is on rebound). I put a small hole above the coupler with the finger tip from a rubber glove covering the hole to direct the oil down. The rubber stopper on top is to force the oil out that hole.
Another useful tool is a depth gage suction tube. This let's you get the oil height right. A straight plastic tube and clothes pin will do the job.
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Just a note on the puller. When exercised, oil will be forced up the tube. (On the ES, one fork is on compression, the other is on rebound). I put a small hole above the coupler with the finger tip from a rubber glove covering the hole to direct the oil down. The rubber stopper on top is to force the oil out that hole.
Another useful tool is a depth gage suction tube. This let's you get the oil height right. A straight plastic tube and clothes pin will do the job.
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More like, swapped, in this case.
The current legs have black streaks (fingernail deep) where the seals touch, and enough fluid leaking to do something about.
I'm hoping to get by with a m10x1.0 coupler locked into a socket (with tape) and on a 1/4" extension.
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The rod will turn freely in the dampner. It will not hold it for the removal.
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RCinNC
Well-Known Member
I've had the forks apart three times now, and I rebuilt them once, and I've never removed the damper either.
I got in the habit of attaching a piece of string to the top of the damper rod with a small zip tie when I do a fork service. That way, when the tube inevitably falls back inside the lower fork tube, I can pull it back out. Is that what the damper rod puller tool is for?
I just grab the damper rod with my fingers. turn the fork upside down over a drain pain, and pump the damper rod to get the remaining oil out. Am I doing it wrong?
I got in the habit of attaching a piece of string to the top of the damper rod with a small zip tie when I do a fork service. That way, when the tube inevitably falls back inside the lower fork tube, I can pull it back out. Is that what the damper rod puller tool is for?
I just grab the damper rod with my fingers. turn the fork upside down over a drain pain, and pump the damper rod to get the remaining oil out. Am I doing it wrong?
SkunkWorks
Well-Known Member
You guys are doing it right..................You can use a lamp-rod, zip-tie with string, or whatever will thread onto the end of the damper-rod to lift it up and cycle it to remove air.
The Tool I was referring to is the "Bleed Tool" - it uses one of the 10mm thread sizes.
The Tool that Huck is referring to is the Holder for the Damper-Assembly, so that you can remove the lower fork-bolt and copper-washer.
You will need this tool if you are swapping out the lower fork-legs, or in my case upgrading the damper-valves.
You do not need to remove the Damper assembly if you are just doing fluid/seals/bushings service.
At the time I needed one nobody in town had one in stock, so I made my own out of an old aluminum jack-handle.
I even gave it its own part-number
The Tool I was referring to is the "Bleed Tool" - it uses one of the 10mm thread sizes.
The Tool that Huck is referring to is the Holder for the Damper-Assembly, so that you can remove the lower fork-bolt and copper-washer.
You will need this tool if you are swapping out the lower fork-legs, or in my case upgrading the damper-valves.
You do not need to remove the Damper assembly if you are just doing fluid/seals/bushings service.
At the time I needed one nobody in town had one in stock, so I made my own out of an old aluminum jack-handle.
I even gave it its own part-number
That looks easy enough. Can you provide the dimensions on that?The Tool that Huck is referring to is the Holder for the Damper-Assembly, so that you can remove the lower fork-bolt and copper-washer.
View attachment 108736
I even gave it its own part-number
View attachment 108737
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SkunkWorks
Well-Known Member
I certainly can!
I'll take some measurements when I get home.
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
I was about to ask the same thing, but Holligl beat me to it.
I don't need one right now, but I'd like to whip up a design for the tool for the future.
I don't need one right now, but I'd like to whip up a design for the tool for the future.
Gotcha:
Manual part numbers
Damper rod holder
90890-01423
Damping rod holder
YM-01423
Motion Pro tool
08-0117
specs:
Length: 12"
Width: 32mm
Side A
Ridge Length 11.5mm
Gap 8.5mm
Depth 5mm
Side B
Ridge Length 10.8mm
Gap 8.3mm
Depth 3.6mm
Ill post back once I figure out to use side A or B...
@SkunkWorks
Thanks for that rebuild thread. You're the one who posted about the damper tool being needed in the first place. Fork Rebuild, Re-Valve, Re-Spring 2014 non-ES | Yamaha Super Tenere Forum
Manual part numbers
Damper rod holder
90890-01423
Damping rod holder
YM-01423
Motion Pro tool
08-0117
specs:
Length: 12"
Width: 32mm
Side A
Ridge Length 11.5mm
Gap 8.5mm
Depth 5mm
Side B
Ridge Length 10.8mm
Gap 8.3mm
Depth 3.6mm
Ill post back once I figure out to use side A or B...
@SkunkWorks
Thanks for that rebuild thread. You're the one who posted about the damper tool being needed in the first place. Fork Rebuild, Re-Valve, Re-Spring 2014 non-ES | Yamaha Super Tenere Forum
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SkunkWorks
Well-Known Member
This is what I have for the one I made.
Outside diameter to fit the Damper 30.4mm
Inside diameter is 26mm
Length of Ridge 10.5mm
The Gap between the Ridges I have at 11.5mm
Depth is 6.5mm
Overall length of the tool is 18"
Some of these dimensions can vary a little, and it will still fit and work................Except for the outside diameter. It cannot be any larger than 30.4. It can be slightly smaller.
30mm OD would probably be an ideal pipe size to start with if you are making one.
HUCK,
That Motion-Pro one you have should be the correct one.
I also looked at my Damper Rod bleed tool, and re-watched the Video I made
It looks like I used the 10mmx1.0 end as far as I can tell..........
Outside diameter to fit the Damper 30.4mm
Inside diameter is 26mm
Length of Ridge 10.5mm
The Gap between the Ridges I have at 11.5mm
Depth is 6.5mm
Overall length of the tool is 18"
Some of these dimensions can vary a little, and it will still fit and work................Except for the outside diameter. It cannot be any larger than 30.4. It can be slightly smaller.
30mm OD would probably be an ideal pipe size to start with if you are making one.
HUCK,
That Motion-Pro one you have should be the correct one.
I also looked at my Damper Rod bleed tool, and re-watched the Video I made
It looks like I used the 10mmx1.0 end as far as I can tell..........
RCinNC
Well-Known Member
SkunkWorks: how much torque do you think is applied to the tool when you're removing the damper assembly? I noticed that 3/4" Sch 40 PVC pipe has an OD of 26.7 mm and a wall thickness of .113". Since PVC is always easier (and cheaper) to obtain than steel or aluminum, do you think the PVC would be robust enough to hold the assembly while it was loosened?
According to the manual the bolt is torqued to 23Nm, with locktight. Not sure I would trust a PVC tool not to leave shavings or chips contamination. Thanks @SkunkWorks for the measurements!
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