Fork Rebuild, Re-Valve, Re-Spring 2014 non-ES

SkunkWorks

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Sep 13, 2018
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1,735
Location
Colorado
I have been collecting the parts to do this for the past year or so.
This past weekend my friend Cap'n Ron and I spent our Saturday getting it done.

IMG_1653.JPG

The Forks were already off the bike. I removed them when I did the valve-clearance check a few weeks ago.
I grabbed one, got it set up in the vice, removed the top-cap, and got the spring compressed.

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Disassembly is pretty easy and straightforward. The Yamaha service-manual is pretty simple to follow, and will get you "most of the way".
If you are only doing fork-seals and bushings, it will get you all the way.

One thing I found out pretty quickly that I needed and didn't have was this "Damper Rod Tool". I checked all the bike shops in town, but nobody had one in stock.
It's not very expensive, and I should have just ordered one ahead of time.
Damper Rod Tool.JPG

Since I really wanted to get the forks done that day, Ron and I decided to just make one.
We took some measurements, and found a suitable piece of material to "Modify"
I ended up using a section of aluminum "Jack-Handle" from an old floor-jack that was no longer useable.
We even gave it a part-number ;)

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You may or may-not need this tool to remove the bottom bolt that holds the damper assembly into the bottom of the fork assembly (the one with the copper washer under it).
I did not find that bolt to be installed very tightly from the factory. It helps to hold the damper assembly from spinning, and makes removal easy.
You will definitely need it to remove the spring-seat/damper piston assembly from the damper-rod/tube. It is very tight, and was installed with thread-lock from the factory.
You also need a way to hold the damper-tube solidly to remove the lower compression valve, as it's also installed very tightly. We got creative and made a "strap wrench" with the end of one of my ratchet-straps, and got the job done. I did not have the proper damper-rod holder either.

Completely disassembled.
IMG_2960.JPG
 

SkunkWorks

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IMG_1650.JPG

After some communication, and details with Stoltec, I went with the Penske Valves and .90 Springs.

IMG_1651.JPG

The next step was to very carefully file the staked end of the compression-valve holder, so that I could get the nut off.
I filed it flush with the top of the nut, and the nut backed out easily.
I chamfered the end of the threads and ran a 6mm Die all the way on. This cleaned up the threads on the end of the soft aluminum nicely.

All disassembled.
I kept the original valve and shims together in the correct order, in case there's ever a need for them in the future.

IMG_2961.JPG

All cleaned and reassembled with the new Penske Valve.
You have to reuse the oem lower spacer-washer, the upper shim, collar, spring, and end-plate.
I put a drop of red thread-lock on the threads before tightening the nut snugly.

IMG_2962.JPG

I then moved on to the rebound piston.
The same procedure of filing the staked end flush with the nut is used here as well. Chamfered the end of the threads also, and ran the 6mm Die all the way on.
These threads are steel, and not as soft as the other ones.

IMG_2963.JPG

All assembled with the new Penske Piston, reusing the same parts as the other Valve and a drop of red thread-lock on the end.

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Next was reassembling everything back inside the damper-tube the way it came out, using my new Tool.

I removed the lower compression adjuster assembly, then cleaned out the fork tubes with a bit of 2-stroke gasoline mix, and flushed out all the passages.
Used some compressed-air and a wipe inside with a rag pushed in with a rod, and they came out spotless.......

Installed the new fork-seals, bushings, washer and snap-ring.
Installed the damper assembly into the fork using a new copper-washer on the bottom bolt.
Reinstalled the lower compression adjuster after cleaning it as well.

Filled with fresh oil, stroked to remove any air bubbles, and then precise level to 150mm from the top with fork collapsed.
Next Installed the new spring, spacer, and top-cap according to Yamaha procedures. (12mm of thread showing on the top threads before assembling the adjuster assembly)
Tightened everything down and Finished!

Used all the exact same procedures on the other Fork, and they were ready to mount back on the bike!

IMG_2968.JPG

Overall I found this job fairly easy with the right tools.
It also really-really helps to have a second person to help with disassembly and reassembly.................or help release the ratchet-straps while you hold down-pressure on the spring compressor tool, so you don't launch parts into the ceiling.

I have not ridden the bike yet fully, so I don't have any feedback yet as to the feel of the newly re-valved forks.

Cap'n Ron rode it the whole next day, but he normally rides a Vstrom-650 so he wouldn't really know what it felt like before.

I'm swapping a different rear Shock into the bike, so I'll post back with feedback once I do that and can spend some time on the bike myself.
 
Last edited:

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
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Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,212
Location
IL/AZ
I did not have the proper damper-rod holder either.
I found a threaded lamp rod and connector work fine for this. I drilled a drain hole just above the connector and added a oil diverter (rubber glove finger tip) to keep oil from going every where as you exercise the rod.
 

SkunkWorks

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Sep 13, 2018
Messages
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Location
Colorado
I found a threaded lamp rod and connector work fine for this. I drilled a drain hole just above the connector and added a oil diverter (rubber glove finger tip) to keep oil from going every where as you exercise the rod.
That's good to know. I'll have to remember that for next time.
 

Fennellg

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Joined
Jun 28, 2015
Messages
607
Location
North Carolina
I respect the effort. Did it on a Yamaha 650 special in my early 20s. Did not have that special fork tool. My God it would have made it a lot easier. But alas I did not have much money and finding such a tool pre internet not an easy task.

Now in Sierra1’s camp. Some things I enjoy doing myself, others to be farmed out. Valve adjustment comes to mind.
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,212
Location
IL/AZ
It also really-really helps to have a second person to help with disassembly and reassembly.................or help release the ratchet-straps while you hold down-pressure on the spring compressor tool, so you don't launch parts into the ceiling.
I used the ratchet straps the first time. Moved on to turnbuckles. A little slower but more predictable. Here is my homemade compressor.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

SkunkWorks

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Sep 13, 2018
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Here's my Update to this thread, with the rear Shock rebuild/re-spring/re-valve info:

Earlier this year I purchased a used rear Shock from a fellow forum-member (Adam).
It already came with a heavier Spring mounted on it that was more suitable for my weight.

Once I had it in my possession, I sent it to Jay at Adventure Power Sports in Idaho. AKA "Sasquatch Suspensions"
He comes highly recommended by the Vstrom folks, and can rebuild some OEM shocks that are considered "non-rebuildable"
After some required communication about my weight, how I ride the bike, and how I want the rear Shock to behave, he went to work on it.
Two weeks later I had the Shock back from him, rebuilt, re-valved, and re-charged with the heavier spring reinstalled.

Jay was a pleasure to deal with, and answered all of my questions, as was Nick at Stoltech. Top-Notch guys!

Since it was raining Saturday, I went ahead with the original Shock removal and the new Shock install.
I didn't take any pictures of the actual procedure for doing so, but I found out pretty quickly that you have to remove the rear-wheel, the dogbone transfer-arm. and the little plastic dirt-deflector thingy in order to get yourself enough clearance to get the rear Shock/Spring assembly out while cycling the Swingarm.
Not a difficult job at all.

Original Shock with the yellow spring next to the new Shock with the red spring.

IMG_3074.JPG

IMG_3075.JPG

New Spring is an Eibach 850 lbs/inch.

IMG_3071.JPG

Installation was the exact reverse of removal.

IMG_3076.JPG

I set the rear preload to the "Normal" setting (red line), the rebound damping adjustment to the middle of the range, and took it out yesterday to put it through its paces.
I rode a 200-mile loop with a mixture of twisty pavement, gravel and dirt, whoops ruts and potholes............I pretty much threw everything at it.

I have to say, I'm quite happy with the results.
I was riding pretty aggressively in the twisties.. I could chuck it into the corner at any speed and the bike felt really stable. It would leap out of the corner when I twisted-on the torque.
Mid-corner bumps? The bike didn't care..........just soaked them up and never wavered. This really gives you a lot of confidence!

In the dirt and gravel, it soaks up the big compressions with ease! I even made it a point to purposely ride over extra potholes and ruts.
Even when navigating turns with multiple ruts across the road, it feels really smooth and stable. I really like the feel of this bike!

I did bottom-out the front suspension once during the ride............I was riding steeply downhill and hit a pothole right at the bottom while on the brakes. Full compression.
(full disclosure: I had the fork preloads backed all the way out, and both damping adjustments backed all the way out during this ride)
I never bottomed-out the rear shock at all, and I worked it fairly hard.

The bike still struggles to cope with washboards at lower speeds........It doesn't feel any better to me over these, but doesn't feel any worse either.
My answer to washboards is always "More Speed"...............they disappear at a certain point when you go faster.

The bike is now more suited to my weight, with better valving. It feels a bunch more stable and controlled.
I'm a Happy and more confident rider!
 

Tombstone

Stir the oil Baby!
Joined
Apr 22, 2018
Messages
506
Location
Utah
Once I had it in my possession, I sent it to Jay at Adventure Power Sports in Idaho. AKA "Sasquatch Suspensions"
He comes highly recommended by the Vstrom folks, and can rebuild some OEM shocks that are considered "non-rebuildable"
After some required communication about my weight, how I ride the bike, and how I want the rear Shock to behave, he went to work on it.
Two weeks later I had the Shock back from him, rebuilt, re-valved, and re-charged with the heavier spring reinstalled.

Jay was a pleasure to deal with, and answered all of my questions, as was Nick at Stoltech. Top-Notch guys!
Same here. He rebuilt mine 110,000 miles ago - adding a heavier spring.
And now I'm dropping it off to him for a refresh next Friday. Incidentally the initial rebuild also solved the "to long" side stand complaint as it raised the bike just the right amount.
 

fac191

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Messages
2,829
Location
London
Here's my Update to this thread, with the rear Shock rebuild/re-spring/re-valve info:

Earlier this year I purchased a used rear Shock from a fellow forum-member (Adam).
It already came with a heavier Spring mounted on it that was more suitable for my weight.

Once I had it in my possession, I sent it to Jay at Adventure Power Sports in Idaho. AKA "Sasquatch Suspensions"
He comes highly recommended by the Vstrom folks, and can rebuild some OEM shocks that are considered "non-rebuildable"
After some required communication about my weight, how I ride the bike, and how I want the rear Shock to behave, he went to work on it.
Two weeks later I had the Shock back from him, rebuilt, re-valved, and re-charged with the heavier spring reinstalled.

Jay was a pleasure to deal with, and answered all of my questions, as was Nick at Stoltech. Top-Notch guys!

Since it was raining Saturday, I went ahead with the original Shock removal and the new Shock install.
I didn't take any pictures of the actual procedure for doing so, but I found out pretty quickly that you have to remove the rear-wheel, the dogbone transfer-arm. and the little plastic dirt-deflector thingy in order to get yourself enough clearance to get the rear Shock/Spring assembly out while cycling the Swingarm.
Not a difficult job at all.

Original Shock with the yellow spring next to the new Shock with the red spring.

View attachment 95087

View attachment 95088

New Spring is an Eibach 850 lbs/inch.

View attachment 95089

Installation was the exact reverse of removal.

View attachment 95090

I set the rear preload to the "Normal" setting (red line), the rebound damping adjustment to the middle of the range, and took it out yesterday to put it through its paces.
I rode a 200-mile loop with a mixture of twisty pavement, gravel and dirt, whoops ruts and potholes............I pretty much threw everything at it.

I have to say, I'm quite happy with the results.
I was riding pretty aggressively in the twisties.. I could chuck it into the corner at any speed and the bike felt really stable. It would leap out of the corner when I twisted-on the torque.
Mid-corner bumps? The bike didn't care..........just soaked them up and never wavered. This really gives you a lot of confidence!

In the dirt and gravel, it soaks up the big compressions with ease! I even made it a point to purposely ride over extra potholes and ruts.
Even when navigating turns with multiple ruts across the road, it feels really smooth and stable. I really like the feel of this bike!

I did bottom-out the front suspension once during the ride............I was riding steeply downhill and hit a pothole right at the bottom while on the brakes. Full compression.
(full disclosure: I had the fork preloads backed all the way out, and both damping adjustments backed all the way out during this ride)
I never bottomed-out the rear shock at all, and I worked it fairly hard.

The bike still struggles to cope with washboards at lower speeds........It doesn't feel any better to me over these, but doesn't feel any worse either.
My answer to washboards is always "More Speed"...............they disappear at a certain point when you go faster.

The bike is now more suited to my weight, with better valving. It feels a bunch more stable and controlled.
I'm a Happy and more confident rider!
Enjoyed reading this. Thanks.
 
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