Wiring the Dashboad with Chargers and Voltage meter?

Ramseybella

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Wiring the Dashboard with Chargers and Voltage meter?

I see a lot of you have done this rig and am just wondering what the full details are with a few simple questions.

I have an Eastern Beaver 3 fuse block one space has been taken by my heated gear.
Two spaces to use.

1: For Voltage meter does this go direct to battery what gauge wire and what inline fuse size?
2: For the 12v outlet what gauge wire and what size fuse into the Beaver?
3: For the twin USB outlets What gauge wire and fuse into the Beaver?
4: And last would you split the 12v and USB chargers into two sections on the fuse block or one?
5: And if only one location what fuse size?

Thanks.

Pete
 

Bryce

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1: For Voltage meter does this go direct to battery what gauge wire and what inline fuse size?
no, it needs to be on switched power or it'll be on 100% of the time.

2: For the 12v outlet what gauge wire and what size fuse into the Beaver?
I used 14 gauge becasue that's what I had spools of in the garage, but probably could have used 18 gauge since the wires are not very long. I used a 15 amp in the PC3 because I want to be able to use a pump off the plug if I need to, even though I have a SAE connector direct to the battery still for a charger and my pump can plug into it too. check out this handy chart to determine what gauge wire you need. Length and amp draw will give you necessary gauge http://www.sunforceproducts.com/Support%20Section/Solar%20Panel%20&%20Charge%20Controllers/WireGaugeSelectionTable.pdf

3: For the twin USB outlets What gauge wire and fuse into the Beaver?
same 14ga wire all in series

4: And last would you split the 12v and USB chargers into two sections on the fuse block or one?
All on the same circuit for me... now if I put a high amp draw item in the 12v plug, I need to unplug my USB items from the ports or risk blowing a fuse. I have 2x 2 port USB plugs (3.1amp total each) and the 1 Voltmeter (can't be more than .2amp I'd guess, but not sure off hand). So I'm left with bit over 8amps for the 12v outlet.

5: And if only one location what fuse size?
I did a 15 amp fuse (see #2)
 

Checkswrecks

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+1 to almost everything Bryce wrote.

While 18 ga is pretty standard for what the manufacturers use, I keep a spool of 16 (his 14 is even better) because it weighs nothing more and is like super cheap insurance that you can't go wrong with until you start wiring high power items.
 

EricV

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I have a PC-8, but otherwise pretty much the same. I used 16 Ga wire and have no inline fuse on the voltmeter. No need. The 12V gets used by an air compressor, so has a 15 amp fuse. The dual USBs should be on their own circuit, imho, in part because you might use the 12V for higher draw items, and because the USBs typically draw 5v each max. I'd put those on a 5 amp fuse. Nothing you are likely to charge on the USBs will draw much, (though the potential max is slightly higher than 5 amp).
 

Ramseybella

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Thank you that helps clear things up.
One other question I was also thinking of installing the Voltage meter in place of he OEM power outlet as it is useless for drawing big amps and has never had a good grip while riding.
I am guessing all I would have to do is remove it and wire the voltage meter in its place and use the 3amp fuse or install a smaller amp fuse.
This will also remedy the on all the time issue.
 

EricV

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Ramseybella said:
I am guessing all I would have to do is remove it and wire the voltage meter in its place
Yep. ::26:: It draws virtually no amperage, so the 3 amp fuse is fine. And yes, it's switched, so that does solve the on all the time issue. ::008::
 

tomatocity

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Listening.

Are there any photos of where your add-ons are mounted?
 

Shovelhead

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