RPM Drop

dago04

New Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Messages
20
Location
los angeles
Hello everyone.


I've been having an issue with the rpm dropping as the bike is stop, also the same problem happens when I need to accelerate and I'm under 3,5k rpm, it takes forever to get where it supposed to be.

Has anyone experience something like this? Took it 3 times to the mechanic, first time he did a full service and nothing major changed, second time changed filter and fuel pump, same result, now he said he removed the power commander cleaned up some wires still waiting to see what he says.
They say third time is charm but I'm pretty fed up.

Any help is much appriciated



Thank you
 

Dogdaze

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Sep 17, 2014
Messages
3,040
Location
Solothurn, Switzerland
I would say there's an issue with the PC unit, has happened before. Also could be the the coil pack, one or more has or is arcing and shorting out. RPM drop is usually an electrical issue like spark.
 

dago04

New Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Messages
20
Location
los angeles
I would say there's an issue with the PC unit, has happened before. Also could be the the coil pack, one or more has or is arcing and shorting out. RPM drop is usually an electrical issue like spark.
Hi Dogdaze, thank you so much for your reply.
Sorry about my ignorance can you explain to me what is the PC unit exactly?

Thank you
 

OldRider

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Vendor
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Jun 7, 2013
Messages
2,137
Location
Western Kentucky
Don't underestimate the problems that a weak battery will cause. I started having stalling and fluctuating rpm issues and a new battery fixed everything. At start up a weak battery doesn't let the system go through all it's programing like it needs to.
 

dago04

New Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Messages
20
Location
los angeles
Thank you all.
It would be nice if it is the battery, I have 64k miles and still the original one on and I have a bunch of things connected, GPS, Extra Lights, charging things while I'm riding.
It'd piss me off if it is the battery because the mechanic didn't think about it
 

Dogdaze

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Joined
Sep 17, 2014
Messages
3,040
Location
Solothurn, Switzerland
Battery is the cheapest option, I would start with that, many on here have replaced the stock battery with a YTZ14S, the dimensions are an exact drop in, but the cca are higher, so better starts.
 

HeliMark

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Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
996
Location
Tennessee
Thank you all.
It would be nice if it is the battery, I have 64k miles and still the original one on and I have a bunch of things connected, GPS, Extra Lights, charging things while I'm riding.
It'd piss me off if it is the battery because the mechanic didn't think about it
This bike seems to be more sensitive to a marginal battery than other bikes. Go to an auto retailer and load test it. But with over 60K miles, good bet the battery is weak, and nice not to have to worry about it.
 
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