Rigid duel row light bar.

hawk281

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Ok, I installed the LED Rigid light bar under my headlight (2015 S-10) using the mounts that held the "mask". This tucked it up under the light and looked good. However (bad word), on going off road today and as I was climbing out ot a creek, the force of the impact broke the plastic mount on one side from shear inertia. I have seen this light bar mounted on other S-10's on the forum and wonder if I choose a bad location to tie into. The light is the flood/spot, two rows of led's and weights about two pounds. Any suggestions as to an alternate mounting system, before I starting wielding little pieces of steel together and make a Frankstein looking thing. ::021:: Thanks for the help in advance.
 

EricV

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Are you sure it was inertia or was it contact with the fender?

Another mounting method is to attach it to crash bars... Like Rumbux or Yamaha with the hoop over the front and under the headlight.
 

hawk281

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I belive it was inertia, as there was no impact point on the fender and only one side broke. As to the crash bar, I am running the Alt rider crash bars. ::021::
 

Madhatter

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I have dually's mounted under head light .... they are mounted to twisted throttle under head light mounts... TT mounts to the plastic part under the headlight , the dually mounts to TT.... been very robust and no breakage....even bottomed the suspension on a county road as I went through a water crossing at 70+ mph.... lights left small scratches on fender, and had to readjust lights as they were now pointed up...check out the twisted throttle under headlight mount and see if that is a better solution for your lights....and I increased the preload on my suspension....
 

silvergoose

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I would suggest a full review of the suspension setting not just preload. I have my lights mounted in the same area, as if yet I have had not problems.

Good Luck
 

greg the pole

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word of warning on the rigid light.

I"ve had mine on for about 50xxx km, give or take 10k.
https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2013/11/04/rigid-e-series-6-light-dimmer-and-switch-install/

last summer, the entire plastic bracket that holds the upper fairing broke at roughly 67km.

The weight of the rigid was a factor, no doubt. I bought a new bracket for $125 cdn, and re-installed the light.
I'll worry about it in another 50k.
 

hawk281

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What did u use to mount the light, any chance see photos of that mount. I think I am going to have to manufacture my own, as Twisted throttle does not have a mount that will work. ::021::
 

greg the pole

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On my old set up I used the rigid mount, and two 1/4" thick pieces of aluminum bar to back up the rigid mount.
On the new set up I positioned the light much closer to the oem headlight.
I can take a pic tonight of the set up
 

hojo in sc

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greg the pole

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hojo in sc said:
Thinking it's a bad light, many of us have it mounted under the headlight without any problems;

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=10971.msg211714#msg211714

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=18153.msg268927#msg268927

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=9957.30

The Rigid OEM mounts are used to mount to the two holes under the headlight, some trimming may be needed on the Rigid OEM mounts to get them to fit the way you'd like em.
I don't quite follow...bad how? It works fine.
What I'm saying that over time, the rigid light will cause stress on the oem fairing mount
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5tnuhuulp0lc8jw/2016-03-25%2017.37.10.jpg?dl=0
 

Cycledude

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greg the pole

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Cycledude said:
Your headlight cover, is it held in place with dual lock Velcro type stuff ? What brand is the cover ? I need to get somekind of headlight cover before heading for Alaska.
gotcha.
if memory serves, it's a national cycle cover. I'll check when I'm back home
 

terrysig

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Catching up on this thread late but my Baja Onx, mounted the same way and the rigid, broke one side of the plastic mounting bracket at about 46K miles on my 2012. I replaced the bracketry and rigged up an aluminum piece to encompass that part of the bracket. Sold the bike a few thousand miles later buying a holderover 2013. I remounted the Onx without any added support thinking it a one off occurance.

I may rethink that as possibly age and fatigue helped by the added load.

I'm sure the weight of the Onx is more that the weight of the two Yami lights that were intended to go in that spot but at the time I thought the Onx would "share" the load better since it used both mounting points.
 

Checkswrecks

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The little steel L-brackets that Rigid supplies need one of them (forgot which) to be grooved to clear the corner of the plastic headlight stay. If you don't, the brackets will press a groove into the plastic, which is where the stay can later break from fatigue.


A little time with a dremel tool or file is all it takes to groove the steel L-bracket.
 

AVGeek

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terrysig said:
Catching up on this thread late but my Baja Onx, mounted the same way and the rigid, broke one side of the plastic mounting bracket at about 46K miles on my 2012. I replaced the bracketry and rigged up an aluminum piece to encompass that part of the bracket. Sold the bike a few thousand miles later buying a holderover 2013. I remounted the Onx without any added support thinking it a one off occurance.

I may rethink that as possibly age and fatigue helped by the added load.

I'm sure the weight of the Onx is more that the weight of the two Yami lights that were intended to go in that spot but at the time I thought the Onx would "share" the load better since it used both mounting points.
I bought the ST specific kit for my OnX, and it doesn't use the plastic holes under the headlights, it actually bolts up to the two lower bolts that hold the headlight assembly in.
 

timothy.davis

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I made my own mounting brackets for the pair of Rigid D2 Driving lights I installed. I used 2" X 1/8" aluminum flat bar and riveted a 1 1/2 " X 1/8" angle to it. I used 1" spacers on the back side as stand offs. The pictures are not the best but hopefully good enough. So far everything is good. I did not feel comfortable only using the bottom two mounting hole on the bike bracket
 

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hawk281

started on a "enduro" now riding another 46 years
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I believe that I have come up with a solution. I took a 2 inch 1/8 piece of flat steel, 10 inches long and shaped it to fit the mounts for the headlight mount and the exsiting holes. this gives me four locations to mount the plate and I think it will support the light. I also turned the Rigid "L" mounts facing outward to put the weight between the bolts on the now mounted steel plate. the two center bolts will have to be spaced to reach the plate, it should not be an issue. A little shaping and painting and it should look good. ::021::
 

st art

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hawk281 said:
Ok, I installed the LED Rigid light bar under my headlight (2015 S-10) using the mounts that held the "mask". This tucked it up under the light and looked good. However (bad word), on going off road today and as I was climbing out ot a creek, the force of the impact broke the plastic mount on one side from shear inertia. I have seen this light bar mounted on other S-10's on the forum and wonder if I choose a bad location to tie into. The light is the flood/spot, two rows of led's and weights about two pounds. Any suggestions as to an alternate mounting system, before I starting wielding little pieces of steel together and make a Frankstein looking thing. ::021:: Thanks for the help in advance.
I have 6" Rigid also. I didn't like the plastic so i've made a bracket that grabs all 4 empty holes in thst plastic assembly. I had to grind notches in Ridgid's mounting brackets for head light housing. It's been 4 years its still in one piece.



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