MCCT adjustment

[Wistrick]

I installed a manual CCT last valve check...an APE unit...From everything I have read the adjustment should be tension on the guide then backed off 1/2 turn...Thing is my buddy who helped with the install said it should be turned in 1/2 a turn... Bike runs fine with not weird noises or rattles. But I am concerned have 1000 miles on since install should I just ::021:: thouhgts

Dan

 

[snakebitten]

5000 since install. (guessing. Might be a bit more)

Haven't touched it. I don't hear any clatter, so it's got to be better off than the few seconds of terrible clatter I was getting often with the OEM.

I guess I could back it off until I get that loose sound and then turn back in until it's gone. I'd then be able to say I adjusted it. But I suspect I'd be putting it right about where it is currently?

 

[Wistrick]

5000 since install. (guessing. Might be a bit more)

Haven't touched it. I don't hear any clatter, so it's got to be better off than the few seconds of terrible clatter I was getting often with the OEM.

I guess I could back it off until I get that loose sound and then turn back in until it's gone. I'd then be able to say I adjusted it. But I suspect I'd be putting it right about where it is currently?

so are you saying you adjusted the same way 1/2 turn in after tension opposed to 1/2 turn out

 

[Wistrick]

worried that I adjusted it to tight, but don't hear a whizzing sound that would indicate that....???

Dan

 

[DamMechanic]

Sounds like your buddy adjusted it too tight. By the APE site it should be 1/4 or 1/2 turn loose.

 

[Wistrick]

Sounds like your buddy adjusted it too tight. By the APE site it should be 1/4 or 1/2 turn loose.

based on this and other instruction I read, I pulled the clutch cover and rotated the motor, the chain it tight on the guide all the way around....so I re adjusted as follows...

turned it in finger tight tell I felt tension and back it out 1/4 turn...

thoughts???

Dan

 

[Jono49]

Many moons ago I fitted a "Mark Krieger" unit to my Firestorm, The UK Firestorms owners forum was one of the most technically advanced I've ever been on, with so many competent people contributing, a job like this was covered with a good thread with a pictorials and easy to carry out!
Fitting the MCCT on a firestorm required the rear cylinder cam cover to be removed to guage the freeplay in the cam chain when the correct tension was applied ( Cable ties holding chain on sprockets as a precaution) you needed to do this as the front cylinder cam cover was difficult to remove and you would need to guage the correct tension from what you learned on the rear cylinder, which was basically tighten to a light finger tight, and screw out a 1/4 turn and if you feel the need a little smidge more!
When I started my bike up after the mod it was 2 degrees outside and it started instantly without the choke as it brought the valve timing to it's optimum position and what a difference it made to performance as well, I think most of these manual CCT's are much alike and 1/4turn will suffice in most cases, and they are a "Fit and forget" item unless your doing mega miles, and dont forget it's a threaded rod which is solid unlike the hydraulic/spring loaded automatic CCT so it wont ever go out of tolerance, I also think it would be bad practice to slacken an adjuster running....far better to set to TDC and start again by tighten and return 1/4 turn!

 

[snakebitten]

I'm far from the expert on such things, but it was not uncommon to see a mcct adjusted while the engine was running on various bikes when I was younger.
(before hydraulic cct became prevalent)
The procedure usually resulted in a backing out of the tensioner, slowly, until the essence of "clatter" could be witnessed.
Keep in mind that I'm talking about far less clatter than many Teneres have displayed at cold startup. So I'm not talking about a dangerous loosening at all.

Then, the tensioner was tightened until the clatter was gone.
I have also heard the OTHER sound that is made when adjusted to (too) the "tight" side of the equation, and I've described it as a whirring sound, caused by the excessive chain guide contact.

I've never seen any official documentation on how to adjust the Tenere with a mcct. Doubt I ever will since it was designed with the hydraulic version.
So me? I'll just treat mine the same old-school way I learned growing up.
Erring on the loose side of the equation.

Reserving the right to change my mind, of course, if\when one of the really smart fellas on this forum comes along and exposes my folly.
(not that rare. )

 

[Wistrick]

for what its worth I decided to adjusted mine (APE unit) per there website instructions...


INSTRUCTIONS

To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. (For the finer pitch thread on the APE Pro Series tensioner it is advised to back the tensioner up 1/2 of a turn.)

makes it simple...... from the post iv'e read here and other sites I don't think 1/4 to half turn one way or the other make much difference in the sweet spot as long as its not rattling or whizzing I am gonna call it good..

Dan

 

[OldRider]

Be VERY careful rotating the engine with any slack in the cam chain as it will jump time very easily

 

[Jono49]

for what its worth I decided to adjusted mine (APE unit) per there website instructions...


INSTRUCTIONS

To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut. (For the finer pitch thread on the APE Pro Series tensioner it is advised to back the tensioner up 1/2 of a turn.)

makes it simple...... from the post iv'e read here and other sites I don't think 1/4 to half turn one way or the other make much difference in the sweet spot as long as its not rattling or whizzing I am gonna call it good..

Dan

The difference between M10 metric ISO standard thread 1.5 and metric fine 1.25 might just be 1/4 of a turn ::008::

And +1 with Oldrider, turning the motor over with the chain slack is courting disaster ::007::

 

[Wistrick]

I turned the tensioner in tell I had tension then held the bolt in place while turning the motor checking for slack, then back it out a 1/4 turn...per this video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43uLWGSbLuk&t=855s

only issue I have now is it seems the clutch gasket didn't survive cause after running for appox 5 mins I get what appears to be oil dripping on the exhaust causing smoke...

bike starts idles and revs up normal hoping the gasket is the only problem causing the smoke...

Dan

Mod Edit - helped with embedding video