Install of .95N/mm fork spring per instructions from Traxxion

3putt

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I got my new springs yesterday so after reading over the instructions a couple times I put them in this morning. This mod is not for the DIY guy without any tools. I have the shop manual and it is great with pictures and torque values on the same page as the parts blowup, not off some place else in a table. (There is a table of torque values if want to use it tho). I also have built my own fork spring compressor tool and holder plus rod extender to hold so it will not drop down in the spring.

Of course you can buy all these tools from Traxxion and they are reasonable.

First thing to do is loosen the top clamp on each side and then loosen the fork caps.
I jack up the front just off the ground with a bottle jack/wood underneath my Hepco & Becker skidplate.
Remove the fender and unhook the plastic keeper for the crossover brake line, it has little teeth that you can pry up slightly with a screw driver.
Remove the brake calipers, I hang them with a bungie from the windshield mount. Before removing the left caliper, remove the speed sensor, the wire is captured by a wire on the bottom bolt bracket and the top one also has a rubber mount that holds it.
Remove the front wheel, loosen pinch bolts, unbolt axle, and while slightly lifting the front wheel it will slide right out.



Now loosen the two pinch bolts in the lower triple tree, while holding onto the fork as it will freely slide out when you get the two bolts loose.
I work on one fork at a time. Then put it back and snug up the lower two pinch bolts to hold it, and tighten the fork cap, then tighten the pinch bolt in the top triple tree. Torque them all together later.

When you take the fork cap all the way out the fork will slide down. I have it propped up against a shelf, but a bench vise would be nice about now.



Now to compress the spring and spacer low enough to get a 14mm end wrench on the nut and remove the fork cap assembly (I use a 7/8" smooth end wrench).



Fork cap assembly and the spacer still attached to the spring compressor. A steel cap fits on top of the plastic spacer.


The nearest spring is the OEM dual rate. Behind it is the .95N/mm 14" long custom from Traxxion.


Measureing the space between the custom spring (plus 2 washers, 1 on each end of the PVC spacer) and the OEM spacer with Fork cap assembly screwed all the way on but not tight and with all preload backed off. I measure 61mm, Traxxion says add 15mm (I added 16mm) thus 77mm spacer is required. I cut a schedule 40 piece of PVC (Traxxion sent T6 aluminum tubing which I did not use) for the spacer.


I assemble first fork spring, then a washer, then 77mm spacer, another washer then OEM spacer with compressor. Compress it down enough to get a wrench on the 14mm nut and screw the fork cap assembly on and tighten.


I put the fork on the bathroom scale and with my 2x4 lever (with hole cut in it to fit over the preload cylinder sticking up on the fork cap) I check the location of a ziptie on the slider tube at 165 lbs and then again at 195 lbs. I used these same measurements on my other spring mods so I can compare the difference. The new .95 spring is settling in 1/2" higher than the previous mod I made, this should be good. Time will tell.


Do the other fork and don't forget to torque all the bolts down. I raised my forks till the machined portion of the top area was flush with the bottom of the top triple clamp, so probably about 3/4" lowered in the front.

Just checked rider sag, 38mm. Traxxion recommends 35mm but I think that is for a normal suspension the S10 with nearly 7-1/2" (more like 7") a little more might be better. I will get to ride some testing roads tomorrow and report back.
 

mcrider007

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Very informative, am looking forward to your evaluation. Yamaha's choice of springs for the S10 makes me wonder if anyone in the home office has a clue how suspension actually works. Why have dual rate springs when the soft portion of the spring is totally compressed by the weight of the bike and rider?
 
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Bill310

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I am enjoying my Traxxion / Ohlins setup and I know that you will as well.

Well some of us know ( and others are learning slowly ) that stock suspension is generally shite .

There are no better investments you can make in a motorcycle than custom suspension, a custom seat, tunng your ergonomics and better headlights.
 

3putt

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It is not that I think the stock suspension is bad, I just wanted the best spring for me and my type riding. The OEM springs with the dual rate is most likely pretty good compromise for most riders, but I found that it packed pretty early and did not allow taking advantage of the full travel which is about 7". My post here is to help others to decide if they want to do this or have it done.

Off to town/golf and test my new setup over some of my favorite bumpy, curvy roads.
 

3putt

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Okay, only rode like 65 miles today, but I made some pretty good roads to get a feel. I thought at first they were a little too firm. But after some pretty good curves and twisties, they feel really good and allow more precise corner carving. Nose dive with hard braking is a lot less than before (my last mod) not sure if it is better than the OEM springs but I think so.

Only used half the travel until I hit some ditches slow speed at 90 degree angles, forks bottomed out and I could just feel it, ziptie confirmed what I thought I felt.

I was running with topcase and only about 15 lbs of stuff, plus the Trekkers panniers but empty. I weight 180 before gear.

I feel like I could take it to the track now, that is how good it feels. My damping is OEM, 6 out on compression and 8 out on rebound. The shock is little over one mark firmer in preload.
 

YamaPA

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Not sure if someone post the info to my question elsewhere, but it would be good to be with this thread anyhow.

What are the supposed OEM spring rates?
 

mcrider007

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Tiger_one said:
Only used half the travel until I hit some ditches slow speed at 90 degree angles, forks bottomed out and I could just feel it, ziptie confirmed what I thought I felt.
Good feedback, sounds like you need just a bit more preload or fork oil (less air space) to give some additional resistance at the end of the stroke. I see a call to Traxxion in my future.
 

3putt

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According to Traxxion, the OEM spring is .86/1.15 dual rate. I calculated it a bit heavier than that by a formula for springs. My mod before installing this .95 was .85 but I was using a cut spring for a 6" spacer instead of PVC or Aluminum, it was TOO WEAK.

Traxxion actually recommends about a 1 for my weight on this bike, but let me go with slightly lighter .95 because I want to use full travel offroad.

P.S. Yamaha Shop manual: K1 spring rate = 8.34N/mm K2 spring rate = 11.97N/mm
stroke for K1 = 2.95" stroke for K2 = 2.95" - 7.48"

Recommended oil = Suspension oil type 01 (from some research this is 0 wt and produced by Ohlins for Yamaha)
This info is from Amsoil tech: Actually, According to Yamaha's Specs, their fork oil is a "0" wgt.... Barely, at 3.58 cSt..
AMSOIL's 5 wgt is 4.38 cSt. Only 8 tenths higher cSt... Virtually impossible to tell the difference and would be used as a direct replacement for the Yamaha Fluid

Oil level = 150mm
 

~TABASCO~

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mcrider007 said:
Good feedback, sounds like you need just a bit more preload or fork oil (less air space) to give some additional resistance at the end of the stroke. I see a call to Traxxion in my future.
I agree... Prolly have to give these guys a call.. Nice write up !
 

Tremor38

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Tiger_one said:
It is not that I think the stock suspension is bad, I just wanted the best spring for me and my type riding. The OEM springs with the dual rate is most likely pretty good compromise for most riders, but I found that it packed pretty early and did not allow taking advantage of the full travel which is about 7". My post here is to help others to decide if they want to do this or have it done.

Off to town/golf and test my new setup over some of my favorite bumpy, curvy roads.
Agreed. The S10 OEM suspension tries to a be "jack of all trades, master of none," and as such cannot be honed-in on any one rider's weight or preferred type of riding; however as a swiss army knife it does better that a lot of so called dual purpose bikes I've ridden or owned. Seeing what spring rate it would take in a non-progreesive spring to equal the OEM's resistance to bottoming out would be interesting.
 

3putt

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mcrider007 said:
Good feedback, sounds like you need just a bit more preload or fork oil (less air space) to give some additional resistance at the end of the stroke. I see a call to Traxxion in my future.
True, preload is backed all the way out, also I did not change oil level which is 150mm, may have lost a tad when I removed the previous springs (I did unscrew them which brings out less oil than just pulling them up and out).
 
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