High Beam Switch

[Gun]

Im soon to install an LED light bar and basically want to run it off the high beam switch. I have no need to be able to switch it off independently of the high beams. If I need high beam, I need the light bar on, simple as that.

Will the factory high beam switch and wiring cope with an extra 2.83 amps? Or is the use of a relay absolutely essential?

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[snakebitten]

I doubt any of us trust the OEM headlight harness with any additional load. That thing is considered "on the edge" by most of us.

Relay will be the likely advice you'll get here.

 

[Boondocker]

Skene Designs IQ-170 Intelligent Controller is exactly what you need to run your LED lights off the high beam switch.
http://www.lights.skenedesign.com/IQ_175.shtml

Search keyword Skene on this site to find some info about my setup.

 

[clint64]

Like Snake indicated above I would suggest using a relay triggered by the hi beam. For the uses you indicated, I see no need for an controller.

 

[djm_ct]

Most people just tap into the pink wire that feeds the high beams to trigger your relay.

 

[AVGeek]

Electrical is one of those tricky things that can cause weird issues. A relay is cheap insurance to keep your light bar isolated from the main headlights. Also, if you do decide in the future you want more control, swapping in a Skene controller (or similar) will be much easier.

 

[emgee]

Yeah, if all you need is full brightness to the light bar when your highbeams are on, then a relay is probably the best way to get there. HOWEVER, if you don't mind spending a few bucks, I would also recommend the skene controller.

It's small, it replaces the relay and it gives you the ability to run your light bar at reduced brightness when your high beams are off so you can use them as daytime running lights. No additional switch required.

The IQ-175A has an "alert" feature that is pretty slick. If you flip your high beam switch two times rapidly, the controller will have your light bar flash for a few seconds like a modulating headlight. There's a video of it on their website. Just a little something that might get you seen by that cager that is about to turn in front of you.

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk

 

[Gun]

Thanks for the replies people.

In Oz any auxilliary lighting (unless its for fog lights) needs to be switched via the high beam at the very least. My bike wouldn't pass the annual registration inspection if my light bar was just controlled by a dimming device or separate switch. It needs to switch off whenever I switch the high beams off for incoming traffic.

So, I'll wire it in with a relay triggered by the high beams as suggested, since the factory high beam switch is regarded as being to weak to cope with any additional load.

Thanks again.

 

[patrickg450]

2 things;

what is the factory AUX lights wiring fuses rated at? if under you can use it.

if you want to kill it wire it up with a relay off the pink and install a switch (rated at the amperage of the lights) in series that will remove the ground. that way is comes on with high beam and switch closed but you call kill it by opening the switch.

 

[Use2btrix]

In lieu of starting a new topic id rather bring this one back up.

I keep seeing the skene relay being suggested in my aux light search, however after looking at the skene site with the different modules, it says that they don't work with the rigid SR series, which it seems like many people are using?

I'm a noob when it comes to wiring but can often tackle things myself with enough research and how to's. Maybe not in this case. Anyways, whether I install it or someone else I'll need the right parts. Thus - can anyone suggest a link to a relay I could use to do what the OP is looking for

 

[88millimeter]

I purchased this 6" version of this Sirius light bar. It was cheap, came with a harness and relay,and has withstood some serious offroad riding. Its very bright, i was initially using the harness/relay the way it came which included a switch and no need to tap into high beam. I got tired of having to take my hand off the bars to switch off and on so i rewired the relay to work off of the high beam. I decided not to tap or splice the high beam wire because of weatherproofing concerns. Instead i found the high beam wire and traced it back to the plug and found that there was an empty spot in the plug next to the pin for the high beam wire. I purchased some pins from Eastern Beaver and i crimped a pin onto the wire from the led relay and inserted the pin into the empty spot on the plug next to the high beam pin. I installed a jumper wire between the high beam plug and led relay plug.

Disclaimer: i am an electrical novice, so if you are an electrical expert and what i did was wrong keep in mind i dont even know how to use a voltmeter, all i know is my setup has worked flawlessly for ~ 8 months. 2 weeklong offroad trips to Mexico, ran into pouring rain, rocks, dust, crashes in mud and i've had zero problems.

http://www.amazon.com/SIRIUS-PROFESSIONAL-POLARIS-CAN-AM-YAMAHA/dp/B00EPLGOK0

 

[cmoresky]

Great idea! Picture and what part from EB did you prefer?


Instead i found the high beam wire and traced it back to the plug and found that there was an empty spot in the plug next to the pin for the high beam wire. I purchased some pins from Eastern Beaver and i crimped a pin onto the wire from the led relay and inserted the pin into the empty spot on the plug next to the high beam pin. I installed a jumper wire between the high beam plug and led relay plug.

 

[88millimeter]

Ok so it wasnt Eastern Beaver it was Cycle Terminal. You want the sumitomo MT .090 2.3mm long pins. I believe i purchased the 6 pin male and female locking connector with pins from the page below.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-series-090.html

The plug is located in a big rubber sheath above the battery. The sheath holds 2 or 3 plugs so you will need to trace the wire to the right plug. I removed some of the electrical tape so i could see the wire color.

Hope this helps.

 

[88millimeter]

Oops, picture is upside down. Not sure how to correct.

 

[cmoresky]

::012:: thank you!!

 

[AVGeek]

In lieu of starting a new topic id rather bring this one back up.

I keep seeing the skene relay being suggested in my aux light search, however after looking at the skene site with the different modules, it says that they don't work with the rigid SR series, which it seems like many people are using?

I'm a noob when it comes to wiring but can often tackle things myself with enough research and how to's. Maybe not in this case. Anyways, whether I install it or someone else I'll need the right parts. Thus - can anyone suggest a link to a relay I could use to do what the OP is looking for

The Skene controller allows for variable brightness. Rigid changed how their lights are wired internally, so they longer work with the Skene, which installs in the ground wire path (this caused some trouble for me with the handlebar lights I use, as one was wired backwards internally). If all you want to do is switch the bar on and off with the high beams, then a simple Bosch type relay will do the trick. The stock high beam circuit will be used to trigger the relay, while a separate circuit (with fuse!) can be run to handle the current needs of the light (which is thankfully low for LEDs).

If, on the other hand, you want to use the LED bar for daytime running lights, or in conjunction with your low beams, having a Skene will give you the control you need to keep from pissing off other drivers.