Hard start

[Huck]

I was gonna post earlier and figured, nah Ill figure it out.
Tried to go for a ride today, with a fully charged agm15 duracell battery. 1 year old, always kept on trickle.
No dice. The thing just chuggs, with the occasional click of electronics (cant tell if its the actual starter switch or something in the rt side cowl)
When the electronics click, all the action of the starter switch just stops and it stops cranking.
I get an occasional pop of air through the airbox backfire style.

Ive killed the battery 3 times today. Fully charging inbetween.
The last ride I went on was a week ago, started fine* (it always struggles, but starts on first or 2nd try.) i wrote it off as a side effect of having my battery wired up
in the top box, but the length of battery cables shouldnt matter. they are 8 gauge silver wires.

Before the last try a minute ago, I took the airbox off, and looked inside, it has residue but no pooling.
I replaced the airbox vent tube going to the valve cover with the OEM part (my other rigging was kinked but still moving air.)
I rode on a 300 mile trip July 4th weekend with no issues and haven't changed anything since.
I took out a sparkplug and it looks fine.
I always have hard starts getting gas and figured it was fuel pressure lost from opening the tank.
Now the thing just wont fire
New coil packs, new spark plugs, inspected valve clearance and all in spec in the past few months.
Codes 14 all day long today., with a 19 popping up once.
Anyways, this shit is wack.

I will be getting a lithium ion battery next season
I would really like to know what is going on so I can rely on it starting when I'm not at home to poke at it.

The fuel pump primes with the on switch, and i always give it a twist of the throttle before hitting the start button.
Might try to hold a sparkplug against the case while cranking to make sure there is spark.

 

[Huck]

From another thread:
Bike won't start code 19 | Yamaha Super Tenere Forum

The fact that switching the ignition off and back on clears it up makes me think about dirty or worn contacts in the ignition switch itself. My buddy with a 2016 FJR has had sidestand errors displayed if he doesn't make sure the ignition switch is completely seated in the ON position before pressing the starter button.

My bike sat outside for a bit, unused before I got it . When I got it, the ignition was hard to turn at all with the key. I had to grease the key to lube the internals. Maybe...

 

[Huck]

I dont run diagnostics frequently, so I gotta look up the code clearing procedure again. I tried to clear the code 14 but its acting strange or I'm doing it wrong.
I tried key off, switch off
hold 1 and 2
key on
hold 8 seconds, and got the diag display.
then am able to cycle through different modes
flipping the off/run switch does nothing to clear.

at some point i got it to show code 15 for a split second and then back to code 14.
um, battery back on trickle, and i gotta sleep. gonna retry clearing codes in the morning after some sausage/pancakes/joe

 

[Huck]

if code 15 is showing correct, there is a short in the throttle position sensor, which might be the clicking i am hearing intermittently.

 

[WJBertrand]

In spite of its young age, it sounds like a flaky battery to me.

 

[bimota]

if your getting click click from starter relay, the one with 2 30amp fuses in, pull the jack plug off it and give all the connections a good good clean
put it back on try again
i ended up with a new starter relay as even with a good battery when you pressed the starter all i had was a clicking noise

rob

 

[Boris]

I’d be trying to jump it from a car…….if no luck, I’d then be checking the starter solenoid as per Robs post above.

 

[Squibb]

Whilst the codes suggest either the air intake pressure sensor, the TPS or side stand switch, I'm thinking starter motor, the associated relays all need to be checked, as others mention. Annoying, but simple enough to check through methodically.

Failing that, I would be checking the valve timing & the decompressor mechanism next.

 

[Huck]

this is where im at now.
full charged battery overnight, im gonna take it to get load tested (the vendor is just across the street)
going into diagnostic mode i scrolled to d:62 and there is a 1 next to it showing 1 fault.
turning the starter on and off does nothing to clear it. when i flip the switch to on, it makes the fuel pump kick on, and it doesnt shut off after a few seconds, it just runs until i flip the bar switch back off.
the code wont clear. still showing 14 with a key in the ignition.
and they were delicious.

 

[Huck]

if your getting click click from starter relay, the one with 2 30amp fuses in, pull the jack plug off it and give all the connections a good good clean
put it back on try again
i ended up with a new starter relay as even with a good battery when you pressed the starter all i had was a clicking noise

rob

Hitting the started button doesnt just set the relay clicking, it will turn over and chug a few times then clicks and such.

 

[Huck]

YO. got it running.
Tapped the starter relay and it got a few chugs in and stopped.
turned the key off and back on, code gone. fired just fine.

 

[Huck]

Thanks, alot mates!
Pics later.

 

[Cycledude]

I was gonna post earlier and figured, nah Ill figure it out.
Tried to go for a ride today, with a fully charged agm15 duracell battery. 1 year old, always kept on trickle.
No dice. The thing just chuggs, with the occasional click of electronics (cant tell if its the actual starter switch or something in the rt side cowl)
When the electronics click, all the action of the starter switch just stops and it stops cranking.
I get an occasional pop of air through the airbox backfire style.

Ive killed the battery 3 times today. Fully charging inbetween.
The last ride I went on was a week ago, started fine* (it always struggles, but starts on first or 2nd try.) i wrote it off as a side effect of having my battery wired up
in the top box, but the length of battery cables shouldnt matter. they are 8 gauge silver wires.

Before the last try a minute ago, I took the airbox off, and looked inside, it has residue but no pooling.
I replaced the airbox vent tube going to the valve cover with the OEM part (my other rigging was kinked but still moving air.)
I rode on a 300 mile trip July 4th weekend with no issues and haven't changed anything since.
I took out a sparkplug and it looks fine.
I always have hard starts getting gas and figured it was fuel pressure lost from opening the tank.
Now the thing just wont fire
New coil packs, new spark plugs, inspected valve clearance and all in spec in the past few months.
Codes 14 all day long today., with a 19 popping up once.
Anyways, this shit is wack.

I will be getting a lithium ion battery next season
I would really like to know what is going on so I can rely on it starting when I'm not at home to poke at it.

The fuel pump primes with the on switch, and i always give it a twist of the throttle before hitting the start button.
Might try to hold a sparkplug against the case while cranking to make sure there is spark.

In the second to last line you say you always twist the throttle before pressing the start button, I really think Your supposed to leave the throttle in the idle position unless you suspect it might already be flooded then you should try wide open throttle, normal starts should be done at idle position.