Friction Zone Riding (Who does it and any issues / suggestions)?

Harry Dresden PI

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Sep 23, 2014
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I am re learning low speed riding skills and need to un learn some of my thinking.

As a teen I burned out a few clutches and now often try to not feather the clutch.

However, at low speeds (where counter steering is mostly not use), most training materials indicate you must enter the friction zone to control low speed maneuvers.

(Low speed is from about 2 mph to 10 mph)

Question:

Is the Yamaha Super Tenere Clutch robust enough for low speed motorcycle rodeo (LEO) type cone speed trials? (Off road single track)

(Note a few books suggest doing less than 20 minutes of friction zone work followed by a 20 minute non friction zone ride to cool oil bath clutches)
 

AVGeek

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The Arizona Drill team runs twice yearly, 6-week courses all on low speed maneuvers. I've done it a few times, and I haven't had any issues with the clutch and riding in the Friction Zone. I actually use it on nearly every ride.
 

TheHelios

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MSF courses require you to complete a figure 8 maneuver which is purely playing with the friction zone. It took me a bit to get used to it on the S10 but I find it's easier to deal with on this bike versus my old, lighter Ninja 650. Tight turns are no longer a problem unless I'm riding 2up on a fully loaded bike. Then it becomes scary as hell.
 

MojoToot

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With balance of the bike's low COG, the decent turning-lock-to-lock range, the friction zone of the clutch & the ABS of the rear brake, you can do some extremely slow controlled maneuvering!
 

snakebitten

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My riding coach is eemsreno.

I've been riding all my life. (58 now)
And yet, every time I ride where he rides, he quickly identifies a "technique" that I should use to better conquer the off-road challenges I am addicted to on these 450lb beasts. ( :) inside joke)

The latest one he gave me was clutch related. And it was while he ran sweep behind me in West Virginia.
Basically, he noticed that I was willing to live with 11mph, regardless of how brutal the obstacles that I encountered.
And 11 mph was, in fact, brutal at times.

We stopped for a break. He mentioned that I could slow down a bit if I simply pulled in the clutch at the appropriate times. I think he actually said, "sometimes 8 mph is called for. Sometimes 6 mph is called for"

I did not "feather" or "slip" the clutch. I simply pulled it in an coasted or braked down to the appropriate pace.

What a difference. The beast just calmly tackled the same obstacles that were earlier making my bike go Fu-Man-Chu.

Or put another way, my ride FELT just like True-Grips LOOKED, right in front of me. (Dude is smooth. I'm amazed watching those not blessed with loooooong legs calmly ride these bikes where we ride these bikes)
 

klunsford

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I have ridden the police course on my S10 and using the friction zone and proper rear braking, it went very smooth and quickly thru the course in fact so much so that other police officers wanted to ride it through the course. That clutch will take a beating (licking) and keep on ticking... ( as the commercial used to say)
 

patrickg450

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just came back from AR, SLAP. Lots of rain.............


on stream crossings I hit 2500-ish RPM's and use the clutch to control speed, just like in a muddy section. Last year I gave Carrot some small pointers as he found a loose rocky hill some what cumbersome on the big ST. Same advise, keeping the RPM's up creates the gyro effect and helps stabilize the bike, with the clutch in or being feathered you control the speed. Need more power? It becomes a 1 step process vice 2. Yes it matters, hit a rock on the water crossing power is already there just need to apply it witht he clutch vice the throttle. I do it on hill climbs and at stop signs.

Someone said it is a wear item, I agree. Wear it out, buy you another.
 
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