Air Filter - what is this?

[Dingo]

With the bike crossing 2,000 miles, I wanted to check out the air filter (200 miles dirt).

This is the condition of the stock filter - - suprised how dirty it was:

Seemed a bit "wet" around the air intake funnels - definetly had a gas/oil smell to it:

But, to the point of my post, what is this clear plastic thing at the bottom left side of the air filter box (see arrow). Is this typical of EFI engines? Small amount of gas/oil being fed back into the airbox :question: :question: :question:

Installed a BMC air filter (amongst other farkles today) ...

 

[stevepsd]

Are you sure that was gas and not oil (gas would have a tendency to evaporate fairly quickly). I ask because the stock filter is a oiled paper element and it might just be excess filter oil.

 

[Dingo]

Are you sure that was gas and not oil (gas would have a tendency to evaporate fairly quickly). I ask because the stock filter is a oiled paper element and it might just be excess filter oil.

Yeah, you're probably right ... now that I think about it, just oil. So the little see-through thingy just captures the excess, I presume.

 

[jajpko]

I really don't think that filter is all that dirty. I know, one mans opinion. ::025:: I checked mine at around 2,000 miles and it looked much like that. I have since have over 11,000 miles and it still looks like that.

Hold the filter up to the light and it will look much different. New filters are about 50 bucks..

 

[stevepsd]

I really don't think that filter is all that dirty. I know, one mans opinion. ::025:: I checked mine at around 2,000 miles and it looked much like that. I have since have over 11,000 miles and it still looks like that.

Hold the filter up to the light and it will look much different. New filters are about 50 bucks..

Agree, that filter looks just fine.

 

[jly51]

Dingo,that is a moisture trap,easy on - easy off.

 

[Dingo]

Dingo,that is a moisture trap,easy on - easy off.

Thank you Sir! ::008::

 

[mcbrien]

It's to let you know you put to much oil in bike Aprilia has these but there much longer ::012:: .
Excess oil is blown up a vent tube into airbox to be cycled through intake and out exhaust, really .

 

[Dingo]

It's to let you know you put to much oil in bike Aprilia has these but there much longer ::012:: .
Excess oil is blown up a vent tube into airbox to be cycled through intake and out exhaust, really .

Ahhhh ... that explains why I wasnt seeing all my oil in the site glass ... thanks mcbrien! ??? ??? >

 

[Dallara]

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Every time I looked at my air filter it looked exactly like that... But I finally I got tired of it looking exactly like that, and I already had a new OEM one sitting on my bench in a box, so at 16,500 miles I changed it. Honestly, I think the black discoloration comes from on-road rubber debris and oiled grit. Pretty amazing to me that the air filter stays that clean and usable after what amount to 10 months and over 16,000 miles in mine.

BTW, same with the spark plugs. I finally changed them to the exact specified and recommended, plain-jane spark plugs at 16,500 miles, too. But the original ones I pulled out had perfect gap specs and looked good enough to go another 16,500 miles or more. Just the very slightest of rounding of the center electrode, but other than that they could have been lightly cleaned off and would have passed for new. That's one of the wonderful things about today's coil-on-plug electronic ignitions.

As for oil level... In my experience it is always better to run the engine somewhere between the two level marks. I try to keep mine dead-in-the-middle, and no more than 3/4's between the marks, when checked as per manufacturer's guidelines. Filling the oil to the very, very top level only results in increased crankcase pressures, even on a in-the-cases dry-sump engine like this one. There is only so much free volume inside those cases, and only so much venting capability as those two big pistons go up and down. Many times over the years I have found odd drivability issues could be solved by just lowering an engine's oil level slightly... Low-speed surging, floating idle, reluctance to pull hard to redline, airboxes filled with oiled resulting in oiled paper air filters, etc., etc. are often caused by someone thinking "if this much oil at the full mark is good then just a little more has to be better." Trust me, too much is just that - too much - and it will result in nothing good. These street production engines are designed to be very tough and resilient so they can stand these excess crankcase pressures, and oddly enough, by design, they can withstand even running very, very low on oil and happily survive. If you are having any idle issues, low-speed surging, etc. try lowering your oil level a little bit and see if it helps. The by-product is you won't get as much oil in the airbox, too.

Just my two centavos... YMMV.

Hope it helps!

Dallara



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[mcbrien]

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Every time I looked at my air filter it looked exactly like that... But I finally I got tired of it looking exactly like that, and I already had a new OEM one sitting on my bench in a box, so at 16,500 miles I changed it. Honestly, I think the black discoloration comes from on-road rubber debris and oiled grit. Pretty amazing to me that the air filter stays that clean and usable after what amount to 10 months and over 16,000 miles in mine.

BTW, same with the spark plugs. I finally changed them to the exact specified and recommended, plain-jane spark plugs at 16,500 miles, too. But the original ones I pulled out had perfect gap specs and looked good enough to go another 16,500 miles or more. Just the very slightest of rounding of the center electrode, but other than that they could have been lightly cleaned off and would have passed for new. That's one of the wonderful things about today's coil-on-plug electronic ignitions.

As for oil level... In my experience it is always better to run the engine somewhere between the two level marks. I try to keep mine dead-in-the-middle, and no more than 3/4's between the marks, when checked as per manufacturer's guidelines. Filling the oil to the very, very top level only results in increased crankcase pressures, even on a in-the-cases dry-sump engine like this one. There is only so much free volume inside those cases, and only so much venting capability as those two big pistons go up and down. Many times over the years I have found odd drivability issues could be solved by just lowering an engine's oil level slightly... Low-speed surging, floating idle, reluctance to pull hard to redline, airboxes filled with oiled resulting in oiled paper air filters, etc., etc. are often caused by someone thinking "if this much oil at the full mark is good then just a little more has to be better." Trust me, too much is just that - too much - and it will result in nothing good. These street production engines are designed to be very tough and resilient so they can stand these excess crankcase pressures, and oddly enough, by design, they can withstand even running very, very low on oil and happily survive. If you are having any idle issues, low-speed surging, etc. try lowering your oil level a little bit and see if it helps. The by-product is you won't get as much oil in the airbox, too.

Just my two centavos... YMMV.

Hope it helps!

Dallara
::026:: If the oil level is to low the oil light will come on . Otherwise your ok .


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[Koinz]

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"if this much oil at the full mark is good then just a little more has to be better."

~

Yep, that would be me )
But I have to say that if my oil level light didn't come on when it was in the middle of the window, I wouldn't fill it to the top. : ???

 

[Dallara]

Yep, that would be me )
But I have to say that if my oil level light didn't come on when it was in the middle of the window, I wouldn't fill it to the top. : ???

I now this has already been covered probably a hundred times or more, and if you already know it then please just skip right on by...

But both checking the oil level on the Super Tenere and filling it accurately after changes is a pretty exacting art. I've learned this the hard way, and I have to in over 40 years of riding motorcycles and more than 20 working in and operating dealerships I have only encountered a couple of other bikes that were so exacting and sensitive in getting the proper level.

to check the level accurately you really do have to have the bike fully warmed up, parked on a level surface and on the centerstand, and shut off that way for 10 minutes. It's that simple, and at the same time it's that difficult. Varying from that by any real degree and you'll get a false reading. Don't ask me how I know... :-X

Ditto the refilling process after oil & filter changes. You need to carefully fill the new filter with oil, let it settle, check it again, and then fill it some more until you're sure the element is saturated. You need to then carefully measure how much you put in the filler neck after you have the new filter on and are adding the new oil. As you get close to the recommended amount you need to slow down and let the oil settle down in the sump. And most important of all... When you get to that spot where the oil is about 1/2 to 3/4's of the way between the marks you need to *STOP*. Give it a few minutes, and look again. Then go out and ride it, and ride it enough to get it fully and completely warmed up with the fresh oil - then come back and let it set, still on a level surface and on the centerstand, for that 10 minutes. Relax, have a beer, and don't rush it.

Again, don't ask me how I know, but thinking "Oh, I just need this last little 200cc's that's in the Ratio-Rite in there..." will all too often put you over the upper line and have the sight glass completely filled over and occluded.

After you've changed the oil a few times you will get to where you just *know* how much your S-10 takes to get to the level you like, and then it's a lot easier to *hit your marks*, but go slow the first few changes, and be methodical and exacting. It'll be worth it in less oil burned, spilled, drained, or wasted... It'll be worth it in drivability and power delivery... It'll be worth it in keeping excess oil out of the airbox... It'll be worth it in reduced crankcase pressure, better fuel mileage, more power, and better performance overall... And it'll be worth it in piece of mind and confidence.

When I do mine exactly right I find it uses absolutely *NO* oil between changes, and the level stays in exactly the same spot when checked according to recommendation. Just for the record, I have over 17,800 miles on my S-10 right now.

Again, just my two centavos... YMMV.

Dallara



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[mcbrien]

Wow , all I do is drain oil replace oil filter ( dry) , pour in a jug of yamaha semi syn and ride . No oil light and mabe a teaspoon of oil
in breather ... tops .