Harry Dresden PI
New Member
I have been working on my low speed "Friction Zone" riding.
One major action in friction zone training is to 90% only use the rear brake and often drag the rear brake while feathering the clutch.
I adjusted the rear brake hasp buckle and lock nut and it helped position the rear brake with my size 13 boots better.
HOWEVER: The OEM limit adjustments did not allow for me to place a relaxed boot on the brake for any length of time.
From past KLR-650 use .... I had once cut the rear brake lock bolt and I just this morning ... did the same on my 2014 S10 ES.
OVERVIEW
I removed the covers for the rear brake slave cylinder and removed the brake connection and hasp connector but left the nut on the bolt threads ...
I then added a second nut and after positioning both nuts so to align where I wanted to saw the bolt, double locked the bolts.
I then used a set of locking vice grips and held the two locked nuts.
(note: Having metal debris near a hydraulic seal and having side load on the seals during the hack sawing worries me but I tried to be clean and gentile)
Now the "not fun" slow part. I then used a fine tooth hack saw and took my time (20 minutes) to slowly cut through the bolt near the shoulder of the lock nut.
(Then used a file to smooth the cut ends and chamfer the bolt)
(note: Holding the vice grips with one hand and sawing / filing with the other hand is a pain)
Removed the lock nut and cleaned the metal debris around the threads ... and re assemble the rear brake ....
Took me an hour going ... slow.
Will play with it for a while to see if the adjustment works for me and will report back later.
See Photos
One major action in friction zone training is to 90% only use the rear brake and often drag the rear brake while feathering the clutch.
I adjusted the rear brake hasp buckle and lock nut and it helped position the rear brake with my size 13 boots better.
HOWEVER: The OEM limit adjustments did not allow for me to place a relaxed boot on the brake for any length of time.
From past KLR-650 use .... I had once cut the rear brake lock bolt and I just this morning ... did the same on my 2014 S10 ES.
OVERVIEW
I removed the covers for the rear brake slave cylinder and removed the brake connection and hasp connector but left the nut on the bolt threads ...
I then added a second nut and after positioning both nuts so to align where I wanted to saw the bolt, double locked the bolts.
I then used a set of locking vice grips and held the two locked nuts.
(note: Having metal debris near a hydraulic seal and having side load on the seals during the hack sawing worries me but I tried to be clean and gentile)
Now the "not fun" slow part. I then used a fine tooth hack saw and took my time (20 minutes) to slowly cut through the bolt near the shoulder of the lock nut.
(Then used a file to smooth the cut ends and chamfer the bolt)
(note: Holding the vice grips with one hand and sawing / filing with the other hand is a pain)
Removed the lock nut and cleaned the metal debris around the threads ... and re assemble the rear brake ....
Took me an hour going ... slow.
Will play with it for a while to see if the adjustment works for me and will report back later.
See Photos
