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Yep should have been straight up from the beginning.

I used to work there many years ago and it required 2 back then, But if it don't fit it don't fit.

Then how do you explain this? It shows 2 required.

Supposed to be that thin one at the bottom as well, Springs are not perfectly square and will wander off center if not held correctly on both ends. Look at the RT site for your bike and you will notice there are two spacers listed not just one. SPSC B5855N which should be at the bottom and SPSC...

So there is a collar at the bottom of the spring that is notched and is about 1.5mm thick?

Actually that compressison adjuster does come out but it is best to remove the fork and clean them thoroughly.

When installing a new aftermarket spring you need a bushing at the bottom to keep the spring centered on the lower spring seat. I have no idea if RT put one in or not as I don't see that section. If not installed the spring can sit off center and cause issues. Here is a image of the 3 different...

Oooops wrong Don, My apologies. Yes he got a higher rate spring 1000 lb to be exact.

Don is not one of our customers as I think he said he used Super Plush Suspension which is closer to him or his preference.

Hey David, Regardless if it a ES version or non ES version the spring would still be a compromise when setting up for a two up scenario vs solo. As would the valving also as the ES version only controls the clickers and not the actual shim stack, Think of the ES version as an electronic...

Another option is shorten the travel of the shock using spacers inside the shock and while in there have it revalved and resprung for your weight. The OEM shock can be rebuilt/revalved with no issues and lowered internally as well.

Air gap is more critical then volume.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1065/1315/Golden-Spectro-Cartridge-Fork-Fluid?term=spectro+85%2F150 They have it.

I would recommend Spectro 85/150 as it is the oil I use in pretty much all the cartridge forks that leave the shop. It is a high quality fluid and in my experience reduces stiction compared to some other fluids. If the shop doesn't have that brand then next in line would be Bel-Ray Hi-Perf in a...

If you want just the oil seal it is OSB 43K, If you want the kit with one dust and one oil then it is KITB-43K. I have tested several seals and the SKF had the least stiction of any. They also seal the best IMO even over NOK. http://www.innteck-usa.com/products/fork_seals/?ProductID=187 SKF...

Not the best for a shop but it will work fine for occasional usage. http://pitposse.com/podarodfoto.html

Put the spring back in with spacer and cap and then push the fork against a solid object (fork cap against wall or work bench) and then try the impact. You need a little something to prevent the spinning and sometimes that helps. Keep in mind after removing the bolt to let the fork uncompress...

Anyone have any solid numbers for OEM spring length, OD small end, OD big end, Wire dia and number coils? Anyone have a OEM spring they are willing to lend me ( I will cover shipping both ways) yes you will get it back. Terry

On the KYB's I have in the shop they are 18.15 mm across the flat, I usually use a Knipex plier as they create a very secure grip on flats and the have a smooth jaw. I put a small strip of red on the threads and then cinch it down nice and snug.

Yeah patience and common sense as I have seen where the installer would just force things instead of step back and take a look at it. If you have those tools then just add the blocks and you should be good to go. I have never run the IDBDR but have a couple customers that have and I guess it...