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Flat seat mod and airhawk (barely inflated) good for me too. Wasted my money on a Touratech seat, standard seat was way better with the mod done.

I have the Carbtune 2, Twinmax and most recently the Motion Pro with the blue fluid. I imagine the MP would be the most accurate as you have to calibrate it every time before use and there would be less stiction with the fluid. However I don't think that balancing at tickover is that precise...

Congrats and safe riding - they are both really great bikes in their own different ways. A total shame that Yamaha did not/cannnot make them Euro 5 compliant. Anyway new laws will prohibit the sales of any petrol or diesel vehicles from 2030 here. That's just 10 years more.

I am on my 3rd FJR and also have a 2016 Supertenere ZE and Tracer GT.. In January I am trading the Tracer GT and the Supertenere for a new (2019) blue FJR and a T7 for trailing and local trips. I would say that the S10 makes a great tourer, especially 2 up, more roomy than the FJR and...

Yes, I used Tyre for years and it seems that MyRouteApp is as good (but not as easy as Tyre) as it gets for the moment. Basecamp is embarassing and reflects the musty ethos of Garmin. Life is too short to be learning legacy software.

Neither the FJR1300 or Supertenere can meet Euro 5 standards so are being discontinued. Unless there is a derogation, all NEW models must be Euro5 compliant from Jan 2020. Existing models as above cannot be sold without meeting the new standard from Jan 2021. There is a 'final edition' FJR...

Welcome from Dublin, where Guinness stout comes from. A reflash does improve a Gen1 bike. It is still unclear whether it makes much of a difference to a Gen II like yours though. The Gen II is a really good, roomy and very reliable bike in stock form.

My ES was too straight up, so I used an electric file to grind a small amount of aluminium from the underside of the foot (which is quite thick) - sorted

Levelling the standard seat on a 2016 ES did it for me too, great easy mod - now better than the Touratech seat IMO.

Thanks for the input guys, I was not able to find anything specific either, so will bring the boot covers.

I would imagine you could attach one side of a shaped sheet or cowl to the skid plate and the other side to the crash bar.

As per title, has anyone come across or devised foot shields for an S10 ? A lot of road water gets dumped onto the front of your boots, so if this could be reduced it would be a good thing. thanks.

I am looking for a Gen 2 if you have them again.

If you think about it you are only cutting three wires. If you remove the STS later you only need to resolder and heatshrink those three wires to get back to OEM - no big deal. Making up and crimping a patch lead is a lot of hassle and extra expense to avoid just three solder rejoins IMO...

After looking at the STS for the last year on the shelf, this thread encouraged me to fit the thing at last. Did the job today on my Gen2 and will be road testing tomorrow. Was thinking of doing the jumper lead, but in the end cut the leads, soldered and used heat shrink tubing. Neat enough...

All modern bikes have the lights on permanently, an EU directive from a few years ago.

Yes, mine work as running lights front and back and the rears intensify as brake lights too - good job.

You would need to buy the US maps on SD card or the licence code. They are easy to install but add an extra cost of around $80

I agree , probably a faulty or incorrectly adjusted front or rear brake light switch. If the brake light stays on, or flickers on and off it automatically disengages the cruise control.

The advantages that the 363s have is that they are smaller and tidier, totally sealed - you don't have drawstrings and straps holding them in place and they cover the grips only - leaving the switch gear visible.. There are nubs on the muffs to allow you to operate the switches from inside if...