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I installed it poorly, that’s why. There's a small bushing that should press against the valve and keep the check valve shim free, but it was actually pushing against the inner rim of the shim and locking /torting it, screwing up the check valve and thus causing ZERO rebound dampening. Either...

Check valve was torsioned and stuck open. On rebound valve. the clunking was the top-out spring topping out hard and fast.

If my cartridge is fucked I'll probably get the Ohlin's cartridge but I didn't think it was necessary from the beginning

Yep bud I understood that it was a top out spring, thanks -- it was still helpful information.

Interesting. Is this spring inside of the cartridge, then? I didn't see it in the main chamber like I did on my bike that has a dampener rod.

I also thought it sounded weird, but I explained in detail what I wanted and, seeing as this guy has great reviews all over this forum, I decided to trust him. Regardless, my main concern right now is wheether or not my fork is fucked. I could always change to another spring.

sorry, yes, it's 0.85 kg/mm

It's not bottoming out. It happens on extension.

Could it be that the yamaha tech, as we rushed a little at the end, got the sequence wrong with regards to the piston bearing, spacer, washer etc?

I agree but Nick at Stoltech insisted that an 85Nm spring woud be good for my weight (220lb) and that I could simply increase oil height if I was struggling with bottoming out. I told him after installation that I was barely reaching spec sag even at max preload, but he insisted that his...

Agreed, will open it tomorrow. God damnit.

Thanks guys. I just cannot fathom that it would tear apart within 30-60 minutes of gentle riding; we used red locktite and it seemed to brace the threads just fine when torqueing it. As far as I could see, there was sufficient amount of remaining thread for it to bite on to. But, again what...

Hi guys So I went ahead and bought the stoltech revalve package and linear spring install. It didn't come with instructions, but I went ahead and got this done at the local yamaha shop. We disassembled the inner chambers and loosened the nuts. As the nuts came off, a part of the peening broke...

Web bike japan it is, it seems. Thanks a lot guys

Dear friends, Sorry if this has been asked before, I did search before asking but I was only able to find threads about benefits and specific part numbers. I keep reading that this is a "300-400 bucks upgrade", but as far as I can see the basket alone costs almost 700 bucks on Stadium Yamaha...

Thanks bud, but what I'm referring to is the opposite; lowering the tubes low the upper rim of the clamp. Obviously, some tube grip will be lost. I guess it's as unviable as it sounds.

It's a common suspension and chassis problem that if the nose is too low it'll "fall" into the corners. Likewise, the opposite problem occurs when the nose is too tall and rear too low; it won't lean in sufficiently even if you really try. Various dampening settings can also influence this. This...

I already explained why in the initial post. The back is too high and I don't want to lower it

Guys, maybe I wasn’t clear, but I’m looking to raise the nose not the contrary.

Hi friends My front rider sag is just 45mm and rear about 60mm but still I feel that the bike pushes into corners (ie. I Feel that I am falling into the corner) due to inadequat trail angle. This is normally resolved by raising the front and lowering the rear, but I really don't want to...