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But the point may be moot because I've pretty much determined that the battery won't hold a charge and I've ordered a new one.

I don't know where the solenoid is on this bike. On my Harley the starter and solenoid are one unit. On this one I only see the starter motor on top of the engine. Where is the solenoid? I've scoured the service manual and not only don't I see a solenoid, I don't see one referenced anywhere...

The clicking sounds like its coming from up front near the fuses, not from the starter. FYI.

Background: I just went through a couple months of awfulness trying to diagnose and fix my ABS brake failure (see thread Rear brake pedal frozen). I think I've got the ABS bypassed and everything back together and when I go to start the bike up I hit the starter button and get a fast clicking...

Normally I would have replaced the ABS unit. But I'm currently out of work and can't blow that kind of money at the moment. Maybe when things "normalize" for me I'll think about it. But honestly I probably won't because its a non-trivial amount of work. If the ABS light comes on I'll think...

Done. And done. It was not trivial to get the bend in the pipes. I know the trick about filling it with sand or something to keep it from crimping on you. But that really only works with copper pipes. I didn't want to use copper pipes for a brake line. It really requires steel brake lines...

I've read a few of you have bypassed the ABS. How is that done?

Update: my rear brake pedal doesn't feel anything when cycling the ABS. The rear caliper still is not bleeding. The rear reservoir is still full so it's not taking fluid into the system at all. I disconnected the brake line going into the caliper and nothing came out, so the line is...

Sorry for the delay in getting back to this, but I was kept pretty busy over the holiday. So I finally got back to checking the pivot, and my bike is fairly pristine. The previous owner said he never took it offroad and it was garage kept and it looks it. I've pretty much done the same so...

gunslinger_006, that's essentially what I've been trying to do. Everything is pointing me to the ABS pump unit. Removing the top line from the master cylinder frees up everything from the master cylinder to the caliper. Loosening the line at the ABS also lets the pedal move. The ABS unit is...

Tabasco, I have a 2012. I bought it last year and have never done the fluids on it. So I don't know. I took the rear caliper off and the piston was stuck all the way in. I took off the fluid line and put a screwdriver down in the hole and pushed the piston out enough to grab it and pull it...

By the way, just to rule out the rear master cylinder, I loosened the hose going from the top of it to the ABS unit and the master cylinder works and the pedal moves freely. So I'm fairly certain it's not the master cylinder. Also, when everything is connected the rear caliper never closes...

A few months ago I was taking my s10 out for a ride and noticed that my ABS light came on. I shut the bike down and started it again and the light went off and stayed off. But a week or so later I noticed it came on again, but this time the rear brake pedal was hard a rock and wouldn't...