Search results

Pitting is already a big problem. So much so that it leaks on the right brake - not good. As Bimota mentioned there are really only two options from here. I was thinking of using the Cerakote or something like it on the un-pitted chrome. Either the re-chrome or the replacement lowers. The...

Any idea where I can get this done. Google went all scientific on me...

I agree with you, either re-chrome (which I had not thought of) or replace the lowers. Replacement was where I was initially headed and my question was about coating the replacements, not the current pitted lowers. Thanks for the heads up about re-chroming, I will definitely look in to it...

I requested a quote from Franks Forks. Thanks

I have a 2012 S10 that I need to replace the "inner tube component" ( the lower chrome portion of the fork, items 3&23 on Partzilla) due to pitting on the bottom inch of each tube. I had cleaned this up about 3 years ago and had both resealed. Well the pitting has returned and now the right...

Sorry for the long delay, lots of family stuff going on. Cutting to the chase, she LIVES again!!! Because of space constraints and the fact that I could not see the cam alignment marks I ended up pulling the motor. Following the manual it wasn't that bad but did take about 3 hours. Once the...

The verdict with the bore scope is good for lack of damage as far as I can see. There is a lot of carbon build up which accounts for the high number the dealer got. I have ordered shims and see what happens when they get here.

I'm getting a bore scope to hopefully avoid messing any further with the head.

I should have googled it before posting, there are lots of videos on it. It is exactly as StefanOnHisS10 stated.

Does anyone know what this means?

I agree, the scope and a shim are a good idea if there was some compression...

Oh and I rechecked the clearance on .051 exhaust valve and it was the same. When I removed the cams I checked out the shims and they are.. Exhaust #1-205, 205, #2-202, 202 Intake #1-211, 211, #2-209, 208 (pretty sure, was in upside down, could be 203) I thought maybe the shim on the .051...

Ok I retried my turn by hand compression check with both cams removed, the results were the same. Nothing in #1 and 20psi in #2. It's a royal pain to do and keep the cam chain from jamming up but I got it done. So it looks like a valve issue. My next step was to remove the head and check...

That is what I expected. I measured at TDC per the manual but you bring up a good point and I will recheck. It was bugging me in the shower this morning as to how it could get tighter and only one valve....

The probable result I agree with, as for the exact cause I haven't a clue. Research here on the forum suggests a bad CCT, perhaps it only jumped one or two links at a time and I just never notice and chauked up the occasional hard start to flooding as the WOT would get her started. As far as...

No, the valves have never been adjusted. This is the first time the valve cover has been removed. I know in retrospect it should have been done but I never took the time. Let the A$$ kicking begin!

1- the CCT has been replaced with a new one and gasket. 2&3- the dealer did a normal compression check which would have used the starter motor to spin the motor. The 20psi result I got was from turning the crank by hand after the CCT was replaced and the cams realigned. 4- not sure how it got...

And the saga continues..... Good news, I have installed the new tensioner and everything with the cam chain seems to be OK. I checked the valve clearances and this is what I got. Yes I followed the manual.... All of the intake valves are in spec, although one is a little tight. Actually now...

At this point I want to button it up as little as possible to do the compression test. If it fails or is suspect I won't have to take as much back apart. I know it's a risk but if test goes badly and doesn't seal, which I don't see why it wouldn't, I can always button it up. No compression...

Ok as far as the WOT and butterflies are concerned, I intend to try the first compression test with the throttle bodies still not connected, right now they are on a table. Just have to remember to take the rags out of the intake ports.... that might be tough.... Off hand, I'm not sure it will...