Tuning with the Power Vision 3

It is interesting to observe what others do; I have downloaded the file and studied it a little from my humble and basic knowledge.
I see that the Spanish member has started from a file provided by Dynojet, which originally only came with modifications in the spark and environment section. However, taking into account your needs I see that the estimated air flow also increased, I suppose because of the AKRAPOVIC exhaust more open, this is just my own speculation, the estimated airflow on my ECU is the lowest of all the ecu versions, I guess it is because the euro 4 DP07 catalytic converter models, is the narrowest in its interior and that prevents the evacuation of gases, which is why I cannot increase the airflow section, unless I remove the catalyst. (don't take my words seriously, they are just guesses, I have no idea)
On the other hand, they have also increased the amount of fuel in all gears, which was to be expected. Now, of all those changes, which one has really made the difference? Airflow? throttle enrichment? Acceleration enrichment? Spark?
That's key.
I wonder if increasing the estimated airflow automatically increases the amount of fuel to chase the calculated AFR mixture?

Thanks for your post, but I'm not good enough to tune the table. I'm just capable to use maps made by others !

siroco said:

You need the Power Vision 3 console as an interface.
First you use the software Power Core in your computer, then have to connect the Power Vision to your PC USB port and copy de file .djt.
Then yo disconnect the power vision from your PC ad connect to your bike OBD port to load the .djt file and write the ECU with that .djt file

Click to expand...

Sorry for not replying, many thanks for this information but I have no Power Vision :-( to connect

Anyway, you can practice downloading the free Power Core application and see how is the ECU prog

Hi folks; I am here again...
I have a question about engine braking. As you can see, I'm still mulling over the issue. I guess I'm a masochist.
Comparing different engine brake tables for different versions of the bike; I note that the engine braking curves in Europe are very different from those in the USA, even between different versions of Europe (DP04 vs DP08). I am not so surprised by the amount of engine braking. What surprises me is how different the curve is. If this curve is proportional to the percentage of opening of the air intake. Why do some tend to open when others tend to close? What is the goal here, when the brake curve is already outside the useful rpm range for the gear in use?
I am also surprised that in the DP04 versions (EURO 3 and USA) the engine brake adjustment differentiates the high gears from the low gears. However, the EURO4 model is all the same in all gears.


The first graph corresponds to the EURO3 model (And maybe U.S.A. Now I'm not entirely sure) the second is euro4. You can see that the EURO 4 not only has more engine braking, it also has a U-shaped curve. While The other has an ascending curve proportional to rpm. Why?

ruling out that the scales on the left axis are not the same (which makes the visual curve appear very very different)...if the descending curve at higher rpm in the second graph is a euro4 (that is, a evolution of the first curve with more brake at high rpm)... it could, perhaps be to avoid the vices of the shaftdrive due to the inertial force of the rear wheel rotating at high speed. The damper reduces this vice, but the more the engine brake, the more the damper is subjected to effort, until it is unable to control the inertia and allows the inertial vice to appear... with less engine braking (an evolution), at high rpm , and high rotating rear wheel, the work of the damper manages to absorb the inertial force
The other thing to keep in mind is that the first S10s are from 2010/2011...and in France the 100Hp restriction was only removed in 2016...surely the ECU software in France was modified (limited)….
Who can know if the software was only for France, or for other European countries?

Be interesting to see tables for comparison of other makes of big twin engines.

hulkss said:

Try the European tune I posted. If it does not work, you will have to copy/paste the tables into a tune file for your ECU.

Click to expand...

I've used it. I had to copy and paste all the data in my file ( not the same name of file ), ans thanks a lot, it runs fine ! A real pleasure to drive !
It runs even better than a file I found on this forum from a spanish guy, using an akrapovic exhaust ( that I do have and use).
One again : THANK YOU !
I'll keep this one !

hulkss said:

Yes, the PV3 will work on a Gen II EU bike. To be sure, confirm with Dynojet when you place your order.

Click to expand...

I use PV 3 with a french 1200 super tenere, works fine !

Please note that I am self-taught and I could be wrong.
In my humble opinion, unless the "throttle enrichment low gear" tables ultimately override the AFR factor tables, which should not make sense if we are in closed loop, since that is why they have called it closed loop and Therefore I assume that the enrichment tables in the fuel section are used to make corrections always within the limits of the closed loop tables. I say this because I have monitored the bike enough to obtain the following premises:
1) The motorcycle remains in closed loop longer than in open loop, even on the highway, in fact the use of open loop is almost residual.

2) The bike works mostly in closed loop in speed density mode if you are not accelerating. Alfa-N comes into play when you accelerate or the rpm reaches a threshold as high as it is hardly usable. This means that all efforts to enrich the mixture in Alpha-N mode are useless unless you are accelerating.

3) The speed density closed loop mode works poorly at low rpm. The reason is not clear to me, it could be one of these things:
-Defective or inaccurate MAP sensor.
-AFR speed density factor very dry
-Unrealistic speed density tables (mmHg vs rpm), for example if you install a foam filter or remove the catalytic converter.
-Throttle bodies out of adjustment
-Faulty barometric pressure measurement
-Faulty air temperature measurement.

This is just my opinion...

I just used PV 3 with a stock 2023 Oman (gulf country) 1200 super ténéré, this new bike was bought at yamaha marine dealer since there are no motorbike dealer here...

THANK YOU so much hulkss, the US custom file was just the one for me, it's corrected everything wrong with the engine brake and shock.

Still need to test more but found that starting the engine now need a little of manual gas.

Tank is now with 91 octane, should I use 95 octane in place?

I am also considering the flash option. I have some questions though.
1. I understand that Power Core runs only on Windows. Is Power Core used only for manipulating the maps or is it also needed for loading maps on PV3 without manipulation? I have a Mac computer. Can maps be loaded on Power Vision 3 without Power Core? Or I need Windows in any case?
2. I have a local dyno shop here and they are also offering the flashing service with dyno. They are former sport bikers and do this for many years for sport bikes and cars. What is more beneficial: using the local tune shop or going on PV3 route? I am not aiming at making changes all the time, just reflash the ecu once. The costs are on the same manitude.

1/ I'm linux man but to copy custom files from forum to PV3, I had to use windows wife laptop, because PV3 device was not seen on my linux, but you do not need Power core to copy paste file to PV3, so your mac maybe ok, or a computer friend, it's just copy paste files.
2/ custom files from this forum are very good, yes same price as you go to tune shop, but if you need few change you have more option for edit the file with Power core software than pay every time at tune shop.

Also PV3 will tell you what file is compatible, so only accurate file can be flashed to your ECU and before to flash PV3 do automatically a backup of your original config so you can still go later to stock config.

Thanks a lot for a fast reply.
So, if I go the PV3 route, I have few more questions:

1. I have 2018 European ZE version. The EU tune files that are available here on this site are one for Arrows headers and another for Akrapovich silencer, but I have a full stock bike. Where can I get a file that can be straight installed to my ECU without a need to copy/manipulate some parameters from one map to anaother as I have seen people doing here? That would be far too complicated for me.

2. I read the PV3 installation guide on Dynojet site, but I am a bit confused. Just to be sure I understand everything porperly, the right sequence of actions is like this?:
1) Download the tuned map from this thread to Windows pc
2) Connect PV3 to windows pc and copy the tuned map to it. Is there any specific catalogue I should aim for on PV3 or simply copy it to the drive?
3) Connect PV3 to the bike's diagnostic port.
4) Start the bike or only switch on the ignition?
5) Go through the flashing procedure described in the installation guide.
6) Disconnect the PV3 and enjoy the ride...

3. I see people here checking the compatibility of the tune with their ECU model numbers. Is it needed and where can I check the compatibility? Where do I get the ECU model number? Take off the ECU? Do I really need the ECU number or can I manage with VIN code?

Sorry if my questions are stupid, but it really is a bit of abracadabra for me. I do not want to mess up anything during the procedure.

1/ see page 1 in this post at the initial post there is archive file, it's not about any type of silencer, it's just for stock bike, you are maybe confused by other post with other files.

2/3/4 you just extract archive on your computer and copy all files to PV3, that act here as USB key, that it, next when you connect PV3 to your bike through diagnostic port ,no error is possible, PV3 will tell you and impose the compatible file to use, so for you EU version, that has EU in the name, and not use file name with only number in their name that come from dynojet, these from dynojet do not improve bike a lot.

rider968 said:

I just used PV 3 with a stock 2023 Oman (gulf country) 1200 super ténéré, this new bike was bought at yamaha marine dealer since there are no motorbike dealer here...

THANK YOU so much hulkss, the US custom file was just the one for me, it's corrected everything wrong with the engine brake and shock.

Still need to test more but found that starting the engine now need a little of manual gas.

Tank is now with 91 octane, should I use 95 octane in place?

Click to expand...

finally no starting engine problem, my battery was maybe little weak from being on with light during the flash ECU process

Great, thank you very much!

I was looking to buy the tuner and do some adjustment to my '23 ST. I insalled an aftermarket exhaust and run it on sport mode, the engine braking issue is pretty much gone, the cat acts like an exhaust brake imo, and sport mode took care of the off idle wheezer mode that touring is tuned for. I'm pretty happy with it as is, could use a few adjustments but at the moment don't see the hassle of doing the tuning. hth

rider968 said:

Tank is now with 91 octane, should I use 95 octane in place?

Click to expand...

Yes, the tune is best with high octane fuel.

I finally got around to doing the PV3 tuning. I got the tuner late last fall. I dug into the instructions and various software last night and today did the pairing to bike + tuning with the map that Mr. Hulkss provided at the top of this thread. Doing this overwrote the Anthony tune I'd previously had. The Anthony tune was a good improvement and I still had one more update I could do with him, but I decided to go this route. I think I was probably a little conservative in what I asked Anthony to do for the initial tune, thought it was still a substantial improvement from stock.

I find the Hulkss tune to be a nice improvement. There are subtle differences across the modes, gears, and throttle positions. Overall, I really like the throttle behavior and how power rolls on or off. I only did it for a 30 minute ride today (40 degrees and windy) but I'd call it "livelier with more control." One thing I found is that it was easier to manage the throttle while covering the front brake lever. I did an initial ride around my yard and found the Touring mode much more controllable at slow speed. On the road, both Touring and Sport mode felt very good, with some clear distinction between them, as one would expect.

I can also tell that I'll need to tune myself to match the new tune. But two thumbs up and many thanks to Mr. Hulkss for taking the time doing the deep dive and sharing. I'm going to ride a while with this tune before thinking about changes.

Cheers,
Eville Rich
2016 S10