Recent content by rbmgf7

Valve lash?

There was a thread on here years ago with a detailed write-up to inspect lash and change your shims. Can't seem to find it. I'm in the beginning of my second inspect for my first gen and can't quite remember all the details. I have the valve cover off so far. Can't remember the lash specs...

No dice. I guess I spoke too soon. It did last longer than before but when it gave, it got knarlier than before. I took the sensor off to test and the resistance bounces everywhere and isn't consistent in either direction for either wiper. I did find this Since the OEM ones on the ST are...

Sorry to revive this thread but I figure I add to it since it already has pics. I've done these instructions a couple times now but the problem always comes back about half a day later. Starts smoother than what it was, then a couple hours in it immediately jumps right back to having the...

Did one thing at a time and luckily the first thing was the issue. Went ahead and swapped to a 15W-40 and now not only does it warm up faster but now it's hovering around low 160s while on the interstate. The temp is 30 so it's about the same scenario as the other days.

Bump for the season. It's dropped into the 20's and 30's and lately my engine temp won't go over 150. I'll allow the engine to get to 130 before I start to ride but I'll never see above 150 while going down the road. I stopped going down the interstate since it drops into the high 130's. If I...

The reason I did what I did is because of my explanation below and why I don't see Yamaha's process any different. I work in a manufacturing facility where we do exactly this: fasten two parts together and bore them to within tight tolerances. For the sake of explaining, I'll relate our...

Where does it say in the manual that the dowels need to remain in the head? If the majority of the dowel was in the cap, I would imagine that's how it's intended to be from the factory.

Huh...ALL the dowels were in the caps. The majority of the dowel was pressed in the cap side with sbout a third sticking out to be pressed into the head side.

I think I might be fine but it sure is nerve wrecking. [smg id=1927 type=preview align=center caption="20141001 174402 zpsnyduwlew jpg"] [smg id=1928 type=preview align=center caption="20141001 174448 zpsdfhub2ku jpg"] Don't know how I can squash those dowels. I was torquing at 7 lb-ft all...

I meant to say the dowels in the cam towers are crushed. No broken bolts. Just putting this out there to see if there is some magical wonder tool I'm not aware about that could resolve this issue without having to remove the head.

I've managed to conduct valve clearance jobs on numerous bikes without a problem but I managed to booger this one up. I went to reinstall the cam towers to recheck my clearances since the exhausts were running tight but in the midst of torquing the bolts, the dowels got cocked and scrunched...

We'll see if I can get something accomplished in time for LF 2014. I have some ides floating around in that 8 pounds of gray matter. Thanks a bunch for the Myler tip. Looks like I'll be doing business with them soon.

I lurk here but post on ADV. I figured posting this could provide some useful info on showing the robustness of the Super Tenere, especially without any crash bars while landing on the radiator side. My only concern is finding a radiator that can closely match the current one at a lesser...

On my way to MotoGP Indy and I manage to strike a deer which leaped out from behind an oncoming vehicle. I was going a solid 35 when I saw the head poking just above the tailgate. Got a little braking in but I ended up creaming center mass into Bambi. The deer dragged the bike to the side...