Recent content by Berg_Donk

I raised mine <> 20 mm, which seemed to be about the easy limit. More here; https://advrider.com/f/threads/bergdonks-xt1200z.898838/page-2#post-21806053

The first bike I owned @ 18 was a new 1972 Honda CB500F. It underwent a few upgrades over the ensuing years. 750 pistons for 600CC, 750 carbs, Yoshi CR gearbox, Hayden oil cooler, Ceriani forks, 4ls waterbottle front brake etc, etc, and the frame evolved into a monocoque. Fun times, and I did...

Sorry about the late reply. I cut it to take advantage of the moulded in bends and get the join accessible on the side. This means the hose needs to be lengthened too, and it just so happened that a spare DR650 carb breather hose suited perfectly. Works good.

I suggest the suspension. A stock shock, with TC on or off, struggles to keep the tyre on the surface and driving. A well setup decent shock makes all the difference to keeping the tyre contact patch contacting. Stock suspension on my Gen 1 meant it was almost impossible to ride on unsealed...

I made mine up from some scrap steel and an old broken screw jack. Works good, with total control.

FWIW I checked my valves recently and did a writeup over on ADVR. My airbox mod might be of interest; https://advrider.com/f/threads/bergdonks-xt1200z.898838/page-15#post-40419016

I now use a full ester synthetic in my DR. There is negligible magnetic paste on the sump plug at oil changes compared the semi synthetic oils used previously. As I use up my stocks of other oils, I'll switch to it for the rest of my fleet. Magnetic sump plugs tell interesting stories.

A few bumps, like corrugations/washboard when slowing for a corner is enough to activate the ABS and means getting down to a 'safe' speed for the corner is compromised, let alone the feeling of a bike accelerating when on a loose downhill. Improved suspension helps a lot, but doesn't fix it...

My wife likes these eBay specials: Along with a slightly boosted and reshaped seat from MJM.

When I did my GenI I fitted an 80A SPDT relay in series with the fuse and a momentary on switch on the clutch clamp on the bars. The fuse circuit, now via the relay, is normally connected when the relay is off, and therefore a form of fail safe. If the relay fails, it fails such that the...

Correct. I much prefer normal brakes. Trying to second think the computer is too much for me. Brakes are much more reliable and predictable once off the seal with the ABS and linking off.

I'd get 2RS and then if you really want to, removing a seal is easy enough. Not done the S10 yet, but all my other bikes get 2RS for the wheels and cush drives whether they were stock or not.

Some spoke weights clamp to the nipple, some to the spoke itself. The ones that clamp with a set screw to the spoke will inherently weaken the spoke and I will not use them. I use the nipple clampers on my other bikes, but sticky ones on the rim on my S10.

FWIW I fitted a SPDT 80A amp relay in series with the fuse. This way when the relay is unpowered its connected normally, then a momentary push of the 'kill' button powers the relay and kills the ABS. Needs 1 maybe 2 secs to kill it then relay is unpowered again with ABS staying off till a...

email sent, thanks :)