1992 volvo has shim on bucket valve adjustment. Bought the MAC tools tool for it when I bought the car. I check the valves every 60 K miles (really easy). Tool was a good investment. Made one change when i bought the car, and that's been it.I thought all valves were hydraulic in cars. I don't even know anybody that has adjusted their valves, with the exception of guys rebuilding a '50s model motor.
Did you do that because you're you, or did the owner's manual spec it? 'Cuz that's the other reason I thought they were all hydraulic, I've never seen it required. . . . unlike a timing belt replacement.1992 volvo has shim on bucket valve adjustment. Bought the MAC tools tool for it when I bought the car. I check the valves every 60 K miles (really easy). Tool was a good investment. Made one change when i bought the car, and that's been it.
All manufacturers, when they introduce a new model, load every bell & whistle onto the vehicle. Jeep. . . . you can't find a model on any lot for the price that is the "from" price. I had to wait for two months to get mine. Upgraded stereo, and HD tow package. It cost me $750us more than the "from" price. Worth the wait to me. No updates needed, because everything is manual.. . . . Will it really be priced like they say with two trim levels? Or will it be like BMW GS bikes that are all ordered fully pimped by the dealers and you have to wait months for a plain jane one? Will all the 'rider aids' end up being a nightmare of updates and recalls, or will they just work? . . . .
I hear you there. Shaft drive was not a consideration when I got my Super Tenere. I almost got the Africa Twin because it had chain drive. The reliability, build quality, seating comfort and 19/17 inch wheels is what sold me.I'm sure there is love/hate about the chain. Part of the reason I bought the Tenere is because of the shaft drive. That being said, each system has positives and negatives.
Can't easily re-gear with shaft drive. Suspension travel is more limited with shaft drive. More weight, more driveline loss. Shaft drive is cleaner and less maintenance.
I'm not sure how it will affect the target audience for this bike. I think a lot of people buy big ADV bikes mainly for highway use so shaft drive is a big selling point. Maybe I'm wrong on that, just my observations.
The inability to do easy ratio changes on the Super Tenere is a disadvantage for guys like myself that like to dial their bike in for different riding conditions. This is the first bike I have owned that I have not changed final drive gear ratios. It would be nice to have the ability to drop the ratio for slow speed walking pace or raise the ratio for high speed lower rpm conditions.Chain is in the eye of the beholder. Some suggest it's easier to do ratio changes. I'd counter with WTF are you doing ratio changes for on a 1250 cc motorcycle? The transmission is a torque multiplier, any perceived need to change ratios is just some dork that can't figure out it's ok to run the bike at higher rpms. You're not taking one of these in the Dakar and trying to dial in for every stage.
they may have some new teething issues not unlike KTM or bmw, other than that I don’t see why not. Completely different animal but I took my sportster to Inuvik, NT, Canada and deadhorse, Ak on the return trip did Sturgis rally and the Big Dog event eventually ending up back home in Arkansas. Over 12,000 trouble free miles, except for one chain issue that was my blunder.I just do not see this new Harley ADV bike doing mega miles with little or no maintenance.
My opinion Yamaha really messed up the low gears, it goes waaaay to fast in first gear for an adventure bike, other than that the gearing is fine......well I would also prefer a 5 speedThe inability to do easy ratio changes on the Super Tenere is a disadvantage for guys like myself that like to dial their bike in for different riding conditions. This is the first bike I have owned that I have not changed final drive gear ratios. It would be nice to have the ability to drop the ratio for slow speed walking pace or raise the ratio for high speed lower rpm conditions.
I found out in a long rocky 3 mile section of the Grand Canyon North Rim (Arizona Strip) that the OEM gearing sucked. I was in the friction zone for the whole 3 miles. The oil and engine coolant were cooking at high temps. When I got home the oil had a burnt smell when I changed it. If I had a 1 tooth smaller countershaft sprocket on any other bike I could have swapped it out for the day and not been so hard on the clutch.
If I was just a freeway rider crunching miles then the OEM gearing is just fine.
I want to see if this new Harley is able to do cross country tours without ever touching it with a wrench. My super Tenere did a 1400 mile ride with nothing more than my dumb self overlooking a perch bolt that had to be tightened. My Ninja 650 did a 5500 mile ride with nothing more than 1 chain adjustment due to installing new chain and sprockets before the ride.
I just do not see this new Harley ADV bike doing mega miles with little or no maintenance.
I just got this.Now you are just trying to be hurtful.
Sorry, but statements like this just make me laugh. Compared to what, a trials bike? Go ride other big trailies like the KTM, Ducati, BMW, etc and you'll discover that they all have a faster speed at idle than the Super Ten has.My opinion Yamaha really messed up the low gears, it goes waaaay to fast in first gear for an adventure bike, other than that the gearing is fine......well I would also prefer a 5 speed
Ok, compared to what other bike? I get that you want a lower 1st gear. But why do you think you need that? And why do you think it's available? And if you don't think it's available, wanting it won't make it happen.Laugh all you want my opinion first gear definitely should have been lower
I'm not talking parking lot drills where you can bail out anytime when your clutch hand gets tired or your bike overheats.It's a 600 lb bike. It's not the tool for super slow technical riding.
There isn't any point it making the bike crawl along at 5 mph so you can 'practice your balance'. Learn to ride it at idle and you'll get better at using what it actually has instead of wishing it was different. It's a 600 lb bike. It's not the tool for super slow technical riding.
If you took a 600 lb bike into an area and discovered you needed to go 2-3 mph, you picked the wrong route or the wrong bike. No road legal bike can go 2-3 mph with the clutch engaged w/o radical sprocket mods that would suck if you actually took the bike on the road to get to that off road riding.The problem is when you are over 50 miles deep into a off highway ride and need that lower 1st gear. I'm not talking crawling along at 5mph. More like 2-3 mph for long stretches. That is hard on a clutch no matter what bike you choose. No matter what bike you are riding there are times that you will find yourself in situations where a simple modification is nice to have.