rider33
New Member
when I went looking for an oil change thread I noticed the main one has something like 400 replies, 'no way I'm going to wade thru all of that. So, since I just changed the oil for the first time, I thought I'd jot down some basics in case it is of any help. This by the way is one of the most straight forward bikes to change the oil on I've had it quite a while, pretty much everything is right there where you can get at it.
You will need:
-3.6 quarts of oil (your choice, this is not an oil thread)
-a filter
-a drain pan
-a funnel
Tools used:
-torq wrench
-12mm socket (for drain bolts)
-oil filter wrench
-10mm socket and 4mm hex key (for removing the stock bash plate, if you still have one)
Specs:
-drain bolts torq to 14 ft pds
-filter torq to 12 ft. pds
Tips:
-if you have a bashplate take it off before you start. It likely will get in the way of the filter & removing it on a cold engine is easier than on a hot one
-remember, the bike has TWO drain plugs, be sure to get them both
-unless you like fishing drain plug bolts out of the drain pan, you might want to think about opening the filler cap AFTER you've removed the drain plugs, that will slow down the oil flow & give you a fighting chance
-speaking of which, the crush washers are copper not silver so if they fall into the oil they are going to be hard to spot
-if you have an engine guard you likely want to get an articulaed funnel as the filler spout points directly at the guard area
-site glasses are nice but start with the right amount of oil to begin with and then use it a a check once you've given the oil plenty of time
to settle back down to the glass (5-10 min maybe).
'Pretty simple really tho being prepared helps. Shop towels & nitrel gloves are your friend by the way in all things oil....
You will need:
-3.6 quarts of oil (your choice, this is not an oil thread)
-a filter
-a drain pan
-a funnel
Tools used:
-torq wrench
-12mm socket (for drain bolts)
-oil filter wrench
-10mm socket and 4mm hex key (for removing the stock bash plate, if you still have one)
Specs:
-drain bolts torq to 14 ft pds
-filter torq to 12 ft. pds
Tips:
-if you have a bashplate take it off before you start. It likely will get in the way of the filter & removing it on a cold engine is easier than on a hot one
-remember, the bike has TWO drain plugs, be sure to get them both
-unless you like fishing drain plug bolts out of the drain pan, you might want to think about opening the filler cap AFTER you've removed the drain plugs, that will slow down the oil flow & give you a fighting chance
-speaking of which, the crush washers are copper not silver so if they fall into the oil they are going to be hard to spot
-if you have an engine guard you likely want to get an articulaed funnel as the filler spout points directly at the guard area
-site glasses are nice but start with the right amount of oil to begin with and then use it a a check once you've given the oil plenty of time
to settle back down to the glass (5-10 min maybe).
'Pretty simple really tho being prepared helps. Shop towels & nitrel gloves are your friend by the way in all things oil....