Can Someone Identify These Wires ?

[Boat]

I’m installing a LED light bar and a Garmin GPS. I took the side panel off and I found the triangular 3 wire plug. I also have heated grips installed from the previous owner. I was wondering if I could power the light bar and the GPS from the same factory AUX circuit, or could I tap into the AUX plug circuit on the dash for the GPS? I plan to mount it in a permanent location on my Madstad accessory bar.

While I was in there I noticed 2 wires with clear rubber end terminals. The wires are blue and blue/black. Can someone tell me what these are for? Is this OEM?
I did not meter them to check power or voltage. Just curious if this is another aux power source.

Thanks

 

[EricV]

Yes, you can power the light bar and GPS from the same factory AUX circuit, BUT it would be better if you powered a fuse block from the aux circuit, and ran separate fuses for the light bar and the GPS. The GPS only needs a 2 amp fuse, but the light bar likely should have a 10 or 15 amp fuse. Isolating them will protect your GPS from any back feed. There are various solutions for this from vendors like Eastern Beaver or you could just go to the auto parts store and get a couple inline fuses or something like a simple Blue Sea fuse block.

Sorry, no help on the 2 wires in clear rubber end terminals. I don't have my FSM any more.

 

[Boat]

I was just doing some searching on here and I'm now wondering if these 2 wires are part of the Gen 1 recall. The previous owner did mention that there were 2 recalls done having to do with wiring and the only thing he added was the heated grips...I'll leave them alone for now.

I like the idea of adding an additional accessory fuse block. I'll consider that...

And thanks for the link to Eastern Beaver. I went ahead and placed an order for the Aux splitter and 2 extra leads. That will save me some time with wiring...

 

[Tenman]

That is the recall job

 

[~TABASCO~]

You can run the little Aux plug power for GPS. You can also use that as a power trigger for a relay.
You can’t power a light bar with those tiny wires unless you want a BBQ bike……. Use waterproof relays.

 

[Mr. BR]

For the 3 wire Aux plug.... which is fused at 20A on my GEN1 bike, would one really need a relay to power up something like a small 32Watt LED light bar that sits under the headlight?
I see the Always-ON 12v wire, the Ground and then the switched 3rd wire... and I have 2 wires coming from the LED so I assume I can use either powered wire in conjuction with the dash rocker switch?
Thanks,
MR. BR

 

[AntrimMan]

​

"would one really need a relay to power up something like a small 32Watt LED light bar that sits under the headlight? "
No, not really.
"so I assume I can use either powered wire in conjunction with the dash rocker switch? "
Correct, however, a much better approach is to use the AUX receptacle to power an appropriately fused branch circuit to the led light bar. Do not rely on the 20A AUX fuse as should there be a fault, from impact or whatever, there will be a length of very red wire at the LED's before or if the 20A opens. You could downsize the 20A if there will be no other loads added but you need to remember why you did that and also remember to let the next owner know about that change somehow.
If you incorporate a mechanical coil relay be sure you have a snubber in line to quell the coil spike. Take a look at the Gen 1 schematic to see how that AUX receptacle is powered. It has been a while, if I remember correctly the ignition system is involved on a common ground splice at the ecu level. Do take measures to keep spikes off the ecu. The Gen 1 relays used by Yamaha, 5JJ-81950-20-00 Relay Assy, incorporate a diode across the coil to snub the spikes. They did that on purpose.
If you use the Yamaha Gen 1 relay (actually a NAIS product) you will effectively have a spare relay should it ever be needed.
When sizing the LED fuse be sure to use the same physical type as Yamaha did, you can then use the spares slots in the fuse blocks to carry your spare.
If you use the ignition controlled AUX source you won't ever leave the LED's on when you switch off the key.
All the best.

 

[audiowize]

Drawing a couple amps off that circuit for LED lights is no big deal. If you want some extra safety, you can use another fuse located at the aux plug between the aux plug and the lighting.

 

[audiowize]

Isolating them will protect your GPS from any back feed.

Could you elaborate on this?

 

[EricV]

Could you elaborate on this?

If you just made a Y off the 12v switched power pin on the bike harness, one leg going to the light bar and one leg going to the GPS, both items will have 12V. Regardless of if you ground the lightbar and GPS separately, or install a switch on the 12V leg to the light, they will share an uninterrupted 12v source. If you get a spike from switching on/off the light bar, that spike will be on the GPS side too. Short the 12v wire to the lightbar, w/o any fuses to protect, the GPS will see that same short.

Lose the ground connection on the light bar and it will use the ground connection for the GPS, which likely will have smaller wires, generate more heat and cause various problems from letting the smoke out somewhere to who knows what.

Put a fuse on each of those 12v legs to the lightbar and GPS, either inline or with a tidy fuseblock and you isolate the two circiuts. If one has an issue, the other won't be impacted. Easier to diagnose issues and find the probably and safer for the low draw device.

You could use the ground and 12V from the Aux plug to power a fuse block. (I do think the Aux circuit on a Gen I has a high enough fuse for this) Or, you could use them to trigger a relay, basically drawing no load from the factory wire harness, and run heavy gauge wire direct from the battery to the relay and directly from a clean, solid frame ground to the relay. This gives you max voltage to the items pulling off the fuse block and you can then fuse them appropriately for the item. Creating a safer environment for the lower draw GPS and a cleaner power draw for max brightness of the higher draw light bar.

 

[audiowize]

If you get a spike from switching on/off the light bar, that spike will be on the GPS side too.

I hooked up my scope and a toggle switch to some LED fog lights and switched them on and off while watching the scope record. I saw a "spike" of a few tenths of a volt. I would not consider that anything to get excited about. I suspect the low ESR of a battery in conjunction with the voltage regulator in the charging system is quite likely to knock this down even a bit more.

Short the 12v wire to the lightbar, w/o any fuses to protect, the GPS will see that same short.

The 20A fuse will blow but before that the GPS will switch to battery power, there isn't really an issue here. The GPS won't be able to distinguish this event from you just turning the key off on the bike. If pulling the 12V feed to your GPS to ground potential damaged a GPS, then we would have a bunch of people complaining that their dead batteries destroyed their Garmins. Electronic designers are rarely this careless.

Lose the ground connection on the light bar and it will use the ground connection for the GPS

No, if the ground connection on a light bar is interrupted, it turns off.

run heavy gauge wire direct from the battery to the relay and directly from a clean, solid frame ground to the relay. This gives you max voltage to the items pulling off the fuse block and you can then fuse them appropriately for the item. Creating a safer environment for the lower draw GPS and a cleaner power draw for max brightness of the higher draw light bar.

A lot of the setups I see are around the 3-7A region for current draw (a pair of lights and a GPS). For the fog lights I have here for testing, I can't detect any drop in brightness till the power supply voltage dips below 11V. LEDs don't necessarily have a linear brightness vs. current curve, nor for brightness vs. forward current.

You're of course welcome to stuff a relay equipped fuse box into your bike, but Yamaha has done their best to make that unnecessary.