thank you rob
thats what i needed, you start with clutch side caliper first then i thought it was brake side first as it was furthest away coz of the crossover pipe as youtube shows
rob
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Can somebody on here talk me through brake fluid change thanks
- Thread starter bimota
- Start date
thats what i needed, you start with clutch side caliper first then i thought it was brake side first as it was furthest away coz of the crossover pipe as youtube shows
rob
ErictheBiking
Active Member
I take the drain hose from the brake nipple up and over the mudguard making sure the connection to the nipple is air tight.
I can then open the nipple once and pump the brake lever.
The old brake fluid builds up vertically before flowing over the mudguard and thus maintains an air lock.
No need to open and close the nipple with each pump.
I can then open the nipple once and pump the brake lever.
The old brake fluid builds up vertically before flowing over the mudguard and thus maintains an air lock.
No need to open and close the nipple with each pump.
Boris
Well-Known Member
Don’t forget, the master cylinder screws are JIS. Don’t chew them up by using the wrong screwdriver.
do you know the size jis a need boris
is that using the vacuum i thought each pump of the lever makes the pressure in the vacuum drop so you would have to close the nipple to pump the pressure up
or are you talking manual don,t follow sorry
rob
can i ask as i don,t follow how you don,y need to open and close the nipple for each pump, are you using the vacuum method, if yes i thought that once the nipple was opened and you pumped the vacuum handles the pressure dropped so you would have to close the nipple to build the pressurte back up then release the nipple again to pump
if manual doing it same as your pumping the lever you,ll loose pressue
cheers
rob
Boris
Well-Known Member
JIS PH2 is what I use. I got a set of three online somewhere, the 2 fits perfectly.
Boris
Well-Known Member
Rob, there’s numerous correct ways to bleed/flush the brakes. You’re getting snippets of each on this thread and it’s likely causing confusion as well as helping. It is a fairly simple process to complete, but quite lengthy to write down, if all aspects are taken into consideration. I use the old school, hose and lever pump method and have had no issues over the years. If I get time later I’ll detail the process.
ErictheBiking
Active Member
Not using a vacuum pump - just operating the brake lever/pedal.
Its impossible for air to enter if there is a column of fluid in the hose taking the old brake fluid away.
Got to keep master cylinder topped up of course.
so while the bleed nipple is open , you are topping up the master cyclinder and pumping the lever without loosing pressure, and not having to open and close the nipple did not know that was possible i thought once you pumped the lever a few times with the nipple open the pressure was lost you then had to close the nipple to pump again to rebuild the pressure back
rob
Boris
Well-Known Member
Rob, this may sound a challenge if it’s new to you, honestly it’s not, it’s straightforward. Allow an hour to 90 mins as a first attempt. Note - this is the method I use, it’s your choice to follow this or not. If we lived nearer to each other I’d go through it with you.
Tools/Equipment- JIS screwdriver for master cylinder.
8mm ring spanner for bleed nipple.
2ft length of clear hose, that fits snugly over the bleed nipple.
Paper Towels.
WD40.
2 litres of DOT4 brake fluid (2x1).
Empty jar. I use an old coffee jar with a hose diameter hole drilled in the lid.
Bike on centre stand, front wheel needs to be fitted as if ready to ride. Activate ABS pump using forum method. Remember, brake fluid WILL damage paintwork if spilled on it.
Cover tank directly below the master cylinder with paper towel and place paper towel around underneath of master cylinder (MC). NOTE - when the lid is off of the master cylinder, fluid will squirt upwards when you pull the brake lever.
I always start on the nearest side to the brake lever, so that’s how I’ll proceed. 8mm ring over bleed nipple, making sure spanner is located to allow half a turn to loosen. Place hose securely over nipple. Crack loose the nipple and immediately just nip back up (not retighten), just nip. Put an inch or two of brake fluid in the jar and sink other end of hose into the fluid.
Move steering into a position where the MC is level, this ensures no spillage if full up. Remove lid carefully and place somewhere flat, lid down. Fold a few bits of kitchen towel to MC lid size pieces as this will stop fluid squirting upwards and onto bike parts. Position yourself so that you can work on the caliper and the lever at the same time. Top up the MC with brake fluid and place the paper towel as a lid, pump lever a couple of times and hold lever in a braked position, loosen the nipple and the lever will go to the bar and fluid will flow into the tube. Keep lever at the bar and nip up the nipple. Pump lever until solid again and hold in a solid position, loosen nipple and let lever sink to the bar, keep there and nip up nipple, repeat again about 10-12 times. Check fluid level in MC regularly, DO NOT allow to run dry. Repeat on other caliper, noting that you might need a helper as the lever and nipple are further apart.
Nip up nipples and replace MC lid. Reactivate the ABS pump and repeat the whole process. To finish off, top up brake fluid, but don’t overfill. Clean lid and it’s parts, replace and tighten. Tighten nipples, but don’t overdo it, stripping these would be a nightmare. Manual says 5NM. Please check yourself.
Clean around MC and nipples with towel. I always put WD40 on the towel first. Ensure you have no spilt fluid on/around/below MC. Ensure you have a brake lever with good feel.
Done!
Tools/Equipment- JIS screwdriver for master cylinder.
8mm ring spanner for bleed nipple.
2ft length of clear hose, that fits snugly over the bleed nipple.
Paper Towels.
WD40.
2 litres of DOT4 brake fluid (2x1).
Empty jar. I use an old coffee jar with a hose diameter hole drilled in the lid.
Bike on centre stand, front wheel needs to be fitted as if ready to ride. Activate ABS pump using forum method. Remember, brake fluid WILL damage paintwork if spilled on it.
Cover tank directly below the master cylinder with paper towel and place paper towel around underneath of master cylinder (MC). NOTE - when the lid is off of the master cylinder, fluid will squirt upwards when you pull the brake lever.
I always start on the nearest side to the brake lever, so that’s how I’ll proceed. 8mm ring over bleed nipple, making sure spanner is located to allow half a turn to loosen. Place hose securely over nipple. Crack loose the nipple and immediately just nip back up (not retighten), just nip. Put an inch or two of brake fluid in the jar and sink other end of hose into the fluid.
Move steering into a position where the MC is level, this ensures no spillage if full up. Remove lid carefully and place somewhere flat, lid down. Fold a few bits of kitchen towel to MC lid size pieces as this will stop fluid squirting upwards and onto bike parts. Position yourself so that you can work on the caliper and the lever at the same time. Top up the MC with brake fluid and place the paper towel as a lid, pump lever a couple of times and hold lever in a braked position, loosen the nipple and the lever will go to the bar and fluid will flow into the tube. Keep lever at the bar and nip up the nipple. Pump lever until solid again and hold in a solid position, loosen nipple and let lever sink to the bar, keep there and nip up nipple, repeat again about 10-12 times. Check fluid level in MC regularly, DO NOT allow to run dry. Repeat on other caliper, noting that you might need a helper as the lever and nipple are further apart.
Nip up nipples and replace MC lid. Reactivate the ABS pump and repeat the whole process. To finish off, top up brake fluid, but don’t overfill. Clean lid and it’s parts, replace and tighten. Tighten nipples, but don’t overdo it, stripping these would be a nightmare. Manual says 5NM. Please check yourself.
Clean around MC and nipples with towel. I always put WD40 on the towel first. Ensure you have no spilt fluid on/around/below MC. Ensure you have a brake lever with good feel.
Done!
thanks boris,
i know i,m still 4 odd weeks away from getting my forks back so no rush, but i have all the time in the world to do it myself so i,ll do it manally as you described i don,t care if it takes all day lol at least i,m not paying out then and the more i do it the better i,ll get, is the rear brake a pain to do, as it seams most people have issues with the rear brake falling etc i know i find that strange as when a mechanic has done all my breaks i,ve never had a issue with it
rob
rob
do you cycle the abs pump as in the video first thing then , i thought you flushed the 3, cycled the abs then flushed the 3 again job done
rob
rob
Boris
Well-Known Member
Ideally do all three brakes at the same time. The rear is the easiest and quickest to do IMO. The pedal, caliper and MC are all close together. You do have to move the rear MC though, to get the lid off, but it’s straightforward and takes a minute. The bleed principle is exactly the same as the front.
ABS - I cycle first, bleed all three. cycle again, then bleed all three again. I do this at least every winter.
ABS - I cycle first, bleed all three. cycle again, then bleed all three again. I do this at least every winter.
Boris
Well-Known Member
Rob, I forgot something very important and obvious………….there should be no air bubbles in the fluid that exits through the clear tube. You may get some early in the process, but there can’t be any when you finish the process.
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
Ok I just bled my clutch and brakes for the first time. I purchased a harbor freight Pneumatic air bleeder a while back. Did not use it. Asked my bmw buddy what he thought of speed bleeders. He said a solution looking for a problem. He had cross threaded one.
Watched some YouTube’s. This is an easy one man job. Motivated, the shop quoted me $400 for brakes, clutch and radiator flush. I did the math in my head. Would be hard pressed spend $50 in materials. So this is my job now.
Some tricks from YouTube And some of my own. You need 3/16 inch tubing. A number 2 JIS screw driver. A container to catch the fluid. I went with a glass mineral water bottle for the weight. A quick clamp at the bottom to give it extra stability.
The tubing was stubborn. First I put my wrench on. Heated the tube with my heat gun. Low setting. Pressed the tube on. Allowed to cool. It made a good seal. Put some brake fluid in the bottle. Looped my tube up then down. Eliminates air bubbles. You have created a column of brake fluid.
Crack the bleeder. squeeze the clutch or brake lever. Watch the fluid move in the tubing. Close the bleeder, then slowly release the brake or clutch handle. If you release to fast brake fluid will squirt up like a fountain. Now repeat, while keeping an eye on the level in the reservoir. I was not paying attention. You get into A rhythm. I did not check The clutch fluid level as often as I should. Introduced some air into the system. Bled out the air bubbles all was good. Another tip I picked up from YouTube’s zip tie the brake and clutch handles and leave them engaged overnight. All air will be purged and brakes and clutch will be optional.
My last tip. I did not do this but I will next time. Put down a tarp. You will have brake fluid hit the ground. Now youtube did suggest taking a trash bag, cutting a small hole and then pulling it like a condom over the master cylinder catch any spilled brakes fluid. Also, put some rags or towels around the gas tank help catch anything if it’s spills. This works like a champ and I’m glad I did it. They also said to keep some wet paper towels or rags around to help if anything gets where it shouldn’t especially on paint this Helps.
one last thing the rear reservoir was interesting to find I had to trace the plumbing back to it. 2015 ES.
Watched some YouTube’s. This is an easy one man job. Motivated, the shop quoted me $400 for brakes, clutch and radiator flush. I did the math in my head. Would be hard pressed spend $50 in materials. So this is my job now.
Some tricks from YouTube And some of my own. You need 3/16 inch tubing. A number 2 JIS screw driver. A container to catch the fluid. I went with a glass mineral water bottle for the weight. A quick clamp at the bottom to give it extra stability.
The tubing was stubborn. First I put my wrench on. Heated the tube with my heat gun. Low setting. Pressed the tube on. Allowed to cool. It made a good seal. Put some brake fluid in the bottle. Looped my tube up then down. Eliminates air bubbles. You have created a column of brake fluid.
Crack the bleeder. squeeze the clutch or brake lever. Watch the fluid move in the tubing. Close the bleeder, then slowly release the brake or clutch handle. If you release to fast brake fluid will squirt up like a fountain. Now repeat, while keeping an eye on the level in the reservoir. I was not paying attention. You get into A rhythm. I did not check The clutch fluid level as often as I should. Introduced some air into the system. Bled out the air bubbles all was good. Another tip I picked up from YouTube’s zip tie the brake and clutch handles and leave them engaged overnight. All air will be purged and brakes and clutch will be optional.
My last tip. I did not do this but I will next time. Put down a tarp. You will have brake fluid hit the ground. Now youtube did suggest taking a trash bag, cutting a small hole and then pulling it like a condom over the master cylinder catch any spilled brakes fluid. Also, put some rags or towels around the gas tank help catch anything if it’s spills. This works like a champ and I’m glad I did it. They also said to keep some wet paper towels or rags around to help if anything gets where it shouldn’t especially on paint this Helps.
one last thing the rear reservoir was interesting to find I had to trace the plumbing back to it. 2015 ES.
Fennellg
Well-Known Member
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Fennellg
Well-Known Member
Another tip. Two small holes in the foil of the brake fluid container much easier to pour and control limits spills. Turkey baster to get the fluid out of the reservoirs. Lint Free paper towels also helps.
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