won't start in gear

scott123007

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Have you tried attaching the wires to the clutch switch but not attaching it to its location on the clutch perch? You have jumped the wires to the switch and found success starting it in gear, so, it sounds like pulling the clutch in is not activating the switch. I can't remember which way that switch works, but if it is a matter of a pin being pressed or released, you could try it manually with the switch just hanging there and see if it works then. If it does, the problem is with the clutch lever and switch interface.
 

Tenman

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Have you tried attaching the wires to the clutch switch but not attaching it to its location on the clutch perch? You have jumped the wires to the switch and found success starting it in gear, so, it sounds like pulling the clutch in is not activating the switch. I can't remember which way that switch works, but if it is a matter of a pin being pressed or released, you could try it manually with the switch just hanging there and see if it works then. If it does, the problem is with the clutch lever and switch interface.
I’ve bought two new clutch switches and they didn help. Tried manually operating them. No go. When I clutch it with my cruise on it revs up 200 rpm before it disengages.
 

scott123007

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Ok, this is getting confusing...
Back on post 53, in response to my suggestion of jumping the wires to the clutch switch, you said the bike started when you did that. Are you sure you were in gear when you tried it? Not trying to patronize, but if in the haste to try and see if that was going to work, if you were still in neutral, it would still start, regardless. It makes no sense that EVERY clutch switch you have purchased would be bad, but it is somewhat inconceivable that bypassing the switch resolves the issue, but hooking back up, makes it return.
 

Tenman

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It makes no sense that EVERY clutch switch you have purchased would be bad, but it is somewhat inconceivable that bypassing the switch resolves the issue, but hooking back up, makes it return.[/QUOTE]

Yes it was in gear when I bypassed the switch. Turned the back tire. Still scratchin my head.
 

Mzee

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I have the same problem. I cannot start my bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. I used to do so when the bike was brand new. Something definitely is not right. But the post has not been helpful. Does it need something new to replace an old thing, etc. What exactly is the problem?
 

Tenman

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Mzee; Have you bypassed ur switch to start see if it will start in gear? There's a lot of people on here that know alot. Sooner or later maybe someone will help us out. I'm gonna try bypassin my switch and leave it there. That's if my mccruise will still work with the switch bypassed. Sometimes not being able to start with a clutch pull is a bitch. Especially when I on some uneven terrain and stall out and picking up a foot is not convenient.
 
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Mzee

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After the engine has stalled
Move the side stand up
Keep the clutch level pulled
Push the start switch

Does the bike start (No).
 

Squibb

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Mzee issue sounds like a classic clutch switch (Tenman has a spare!)

However, turning to the OP, I am suspicious as to why that McCruise system appears to briefly up the revs before switching out (#65). Given the passage of time & the odd tangential discussion here I confess I am getting a bit lost in the sea of verbiage.

I can't get access to the McCruise PDF manual on-line so brainstorming the possibilities is difficult from afar, but surely taking the bike back to factory standard by disconnecting the electronics of McCruise, would at least prove whether or not the Yamaha stand/clutch/gear position system is working properly. Then we can get back to basics.

Assuming the bike itself passes that test, then it's a case of seeing what parameters McCruise looks at to maintain a set & steady speed. Does it converse with the bike's ECU directly? Or does it monitor speed from the ABS pulse & close off from brake lights/clutch switch, using a servo to control the throttle opening. Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I am not familiar with this aftermarket system but I am guessing it is a relatively simple device given the range of applications shown on their website. Once we can understand the parameters that McCruise uses, then we can focus on possible remedies. Just as an example, something silly like an inlet manifold air leak may even be enough to upset the system, if it looks at the vacuum level as a parameter - if so, something simple like the good old perished vac caps issue could hold the answer.

Perhaps the OP can enlighten/correct me idc - it would be good to sort out the mystery here.
 

Squibb

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It's the electronic one. I'm used to it now. No way I'm tearing into it. Thanx for the insight though.
Whilst I can't see the problem TBH, given the time you have expended already trying to fix this, may I suggest you commence an email dialogue with McCruise in OZ. I think you will find they may be able to pinpoint the problem.

I saw one guy, IIRC it was on the Connie forum, whose CC would not keep a steady speed. McC diagnosed the problem accurately & got it fixed for him - so they should too given the price of these things.
 

Tenman

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I called them when it first happened. The guy took me through some steps. He said it aint the cruise. It works great except for the clutching to release. No big deal for me. The cluch will still release it. Just revs 200 rpm after disengagement.
 

Mzee

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I solved the problem.

The good thing is that I knew exactly what the issue was. Here is the solution. I started with the clutch switch. Stripped it and found that the copper was green. I disassembled and cleaned it until it was shinning. Assembled it. Installed it.

After the engine has stalled
Move the side stand up
Keep the clutch level pulled
Push the start switch

Does the bike start (YES). :D:D:D:D:D

Thank you everyone for the input.
 
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